ParkLiner winterization? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-20-2013, 08:48 AM   #1
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ParkLiner winterization?

Is the water system drained just by removing the anode tube from the hot water heater? I can't find any other spigots!

How about those mud dauber guards? Where can I get them, like a link if possible.

Thanks for any help you ParkLiner folks!

Frank
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:05 AM   #2
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I do not have a Parkliner but on my Casita water heater the hole for the anode rod is at
the low point of the heater and is how I was told by the factory to drain my heater . I leave the anode out over winter . Camco makes an anode rod with a brass petcock valve at the end so you can drain the heater without removing the anode which is handy in the summer for draining the heater but I do not know if it would work well in a Wisconsin Winter and I was told to change out my anode yearly
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:17 AM   #3
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Frank, I ran the faucet and shower dry, removed the annode and let it drip for awhile. Then added a few gallons of anti freeze(rv type) and opened each faucet cold then hot till it ran out pink. same with the shower. Poured some down the shower drain and sink drain.

This year Im thinking about buying an air compressor and there is a brass piece that you can attach to the city water line and blow the water out and dont need anti freeze (cept maybe for the drains.) Im hoping to winter camp a few weekends at my friends place in the Pine Barrens. This way it can be re-winterized in a few minutes. Im sure someone can provide a link for the how to do it.

Best of Luck on your new babey!
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:51 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I do not have a Parkliner but on my Casita water heater the hole for the anode rod is at
the low point of the heater and is how I was told by the factory to drain my heater . I leave the anode out over winter . Camco makes an anode rod with a brass petcock valve at the end so you can drain the heater without removing the anode which is handy in the summer for draining the heater but I do not know if it would work well in a Wisconsin Winter and I was told to change out my anode yearly
Thanks Steve! I pulled the anode tube, and yes, they should be changed every year. I always keep one and the tools (including teflon tape) to swap it out in the trailer.

Frank
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #5
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Frank, I ran the faucet and shower dry, removed the annode and let it drip for awhile. Then added a few gallons of anti freeze(rv type) and opened each faucet cold then hot till it ran out pink. same with the shower. Poured some down the shower drain and sink drain.

This year Im thinking about buying an air compressor and there is a brass piece that you can attach to the city water line and blow the water out and dont need anti freeze (cept maybe for the drains.) Im hoping to winter camp a few weekends at my friends place in the Pine Barrens. This way it can be re-winterized in a few minutes. Im sure someone can provide a link for the how to do it.

Best of Luck on your new babey!
Deryk, we don't have any water coming out when we open the faucets, not even a drop. The water heater appeared to be full though when I pulled the anode tube. I don't think Alex & Marta ever used this stuff. So just pour some RV antifreeze down each drain ya think?

Keep me posted on that air compressor thing, that is an excellent idea!

Frank
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #6
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Dont forget to turn on any water pumps you may have- shower pan or main water tank? to get the anti freeze to run through them as well. I friends pump suffered some damage last winter due to forgetting to do that. Also dump out all your holding tanks once again after you have finished with adding anti freeze - that way you know that whats in them is only anti freeze and not a mixture of fresh water (drained out of the pipes when you added the anti freeze ) and anti freeze which will reduce the effectiveness of the anti freeze.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:07 AM   #7
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Dont forget to turn on any water pumps you may have- shower pan or main water tank? to get the anti freeze to run through them as well. I friends pump suffered some damage last winter due to forgetting to do that. Also dump out all your holding tanks once again after you have finished with adding anti freeze - that way you know that whats in them is only anti freeze and not a mixture of fresh water (drained out of the pipes when you added the anti freeze ) and anti freeze which will reduce the effectiveness of the anti freeze.
I leave the valves to my holding tanks open all winter . In the past I've drained my tanks and closed the valves only to find out later that water had collected behind the valve , frozen, and cracked the valve housing I put a coarse brass scouring pad in the drain opening to keep mice and chipmunks out .
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:27 AM   #8
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I leave the valves to my holding tanks open all winter . .
I do as well. When I purchased my trailer the PO had just installed a new hot water tank. He told me he had drained the old one the winter prior but somehow it had been damaged over the winter due to its design prevents it from totally draining. Suggested I leave the plug out of it during the winter to avoid the problem again .... decided that was good advise for all the tanks.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:56 AM   #9
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Well, I just hooked up power and tried the faucets. I hear gurgling in the kitchen sink, that's it, and nothing in the toilet. Dump antifreeze in to protect the traps?

It's been a crazy week, and I have to run to a St. Andrews Society function, back later. Thanks all!

Frank
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:19 PM   #10
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I do as well. When I purchased my trailer the PO had just installed a new hot water tank. He told me he had drained the old one the winter prior but somehow it had been damaged over the winter due to its design prevents it from totally draining. Suggested I leave the plug out of it during the winter to avoid the problem again .... decided that was good advise for all the tanks.
I pulled the anode on my water heater and drained the tank over a week ago .(Left anode out of tank) Today I went out with my shop vac with a 1/2' hose attached to the vacuum hose and was able to remove over a 1/2 gallon of water from the water heater SO MUCH FOR THE ANODE OPENING BEING THE LOW SPOT IN THE WATER HEATER TANK!!
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:49 PM   #11
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When you removed the anode, did you open the taps in the trailer? Did you open the pressure relief valve for the water heater?
If you didn't, it's like holding your finger over one end of a straw full of water.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
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SO MUCH FOR THE ANODE OPENING BEING THE LOW SPOT IN THE WATER HEATER TANK!!
Well it is the lowest spot they provide an opening for draining

What you discovered in regards to water still in the tank after having drained it is also why the tanks sometimes rust out sooner than they should as its not just water left in the tank but sediment build up. Thats why I suggest people use a Heater tank Rinser at least once a year on their tanks to help with getting it all out.
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:32 PM   #13
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.....I pulled the anode tube, and yes, they should be changed every year.....
This is a maintenance issue. And it depends on a number of factors. It doesn't necessarily need to be replaced every year. However, they're cheap enough if replacing it yearly gives you peace of mind.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #14
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When you removed the anode, did you open the taps in the trailer? Did you open the pressure relief valve for the water heater?
If you didn't, it's like holding your finger over one end of a straw full of water.
Yes. Yes.

Frank
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