Pics of 13' Burro with deadbolt installed? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-07-2009, 08:03 AM   #1
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Does anyone have any pics of a deadbolt installation on the door of a 13' Burro? My Bargman L400 is missing the lock cylinder, and although I might be able to find one somewhere, I am thinking a deadbolt would be better for security. Any tips? Thanks!!
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:19 AM   #2
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Craig, I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but this is the setup I use at night and when traveling so the door doesn't fly open. I leave the window in the door unlocked so that I can slide it open, reach in and unlock the slide. To install,I took the door handle off then glued a wood block on the inside so the slide could be attached to something sturdy. I attached another wood block, as you see in the picture, for the slide to rest on . When closed it's tighter than a tick and won't come undone without help.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:20 AM   #3
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Does anyone have any pics of a deadbolt installation on the door of a 13' Burro?
How about some pictures of a deadbolt on a 19foot Scamp. Same, same or similar enough... check out Don's link to additional pictures Door Flying open!
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:56 AM   #4
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Does anyone have any pics of a deadbolt installation on the door of a 13' Burro? My Bargman L400 is missing the lock cylinder, and although I might be able to find one somewhere, I am thinking a deadbolt would be better for security. Any tips? Thanks!!
Hi: Craig D... I have a link to a supplier of repair kits for your type of door lock. I don't know if they have any left but you could give them a try. here
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:18 PM   #5
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Craig, I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but this is the setup I use at night and when traveling so the door doesn't fly open. I leave the window in the door unlocked so that I can slide it open, reach in and unlock the slide. To install,I took the door handle off then glued a wood block on the inside so the slide could be attached to something sturdy. I attached another wood block, as you see in the picture, for the slide to rest on . When closed it's tighter than a tick and won't come undone without help.http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/st...attach_add.png
Thanks, Rusty. That looks like it worked out pretty well and does the job, but I'd like to be able to open it with a key if possible. I was looking at the door and it seems to be about the same thickness as a typical home entry door. I think I will do some measuring and see if I can somehow get a deadbolt to mount and look good.
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:21 PM   #6
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How about some pictures of a deadbolt on a 19foot Scamp. Same, same or similar enough... check out Don's link to additional pictures Door Flying open!
The deadbolt on that Scamp looks perfect! I want to try and do just that. Thanks for the pic!

And thank you Alf S. for the info on that locksmith. I think I'd like to fix the Bargman just to not have that hole where the lock cylinder goes if nothing else.

Thanks Much!!
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:11 PM   #7
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Well, I got one installed. It was a little bit of trouble, but not too bad. The only obstacle was that the screws that came with the deadbolt were about 3mm too short to reach the other half of the lock. Once I got passed that it was a piece of cake. I'm pretty happy with the results, too.

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Old 09-13-2009, 07:53 PM   #8
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Hi Craig,

Looks nice! Could you show what you did on the striker plate side of things? Also, how did you handle the open cavity between the two door shells?

Thanks,
Raya
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:12 AM   #9
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Hi Raya. Thanks! I have not completed the striker just yet, but I plan to just use a metal strip to work as both the striker for the L400 and for the deadbolt. I'll get a pic of it once I complete that side of the job though. As far as the cavity between the shells, the spot that I chose just above the L400 seems very solid. I was able to snug up the screws on the deadbolt just fine without installing any spacers between the shells. I was afraid I'd need to glue some wood in there to support the squeeze, but I felt it wasn't necessary.
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:14 PM   #10
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Striker Plate

Craig,

can you post a picture of the striker plate you finally used?
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Old 08-15-2015, 05:53 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Raya View Post
Hi Craig,

Looks nice! Could you show what you did on the striker plate side of things? Also, how did you handle the open cavity between the two door shells?

Thanks,
Raya

This thread is six years old and Raya has not signed in for most of them hat time. I think that you're on your own.


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Old 08-17-2015, 03:11 PM   #12
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Hi John,

I also installed a deadbolt on the door of my Burro. I put mine a little higher than the one shown in the post. Putting it closer to the window takes advantage of the stronger FG because of the curve.

I used an averaged priced off the shelf bolt but had to order the thickness extension kit because the Burro door is thicker than the average household door.

I actually have not installed a striker plate because the bolt in my installation lines up perfectly with the rear edge of the door "jamb". Someday I will put a thin metal plate over this jamb area to make it look cleaner as the bolt rubbing on it makes the fiberglass blacken.

But otherwise the DB works great. Can be locked from either side and it secures the door nicely so that it does not bounce during travel and protects the fragile well worn Bargeman latch.

Rick.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:48 PM   #13
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Deadbolt

You should be able to see the deadbolt I installed on the door or our Burro when the Bargman stopped working right. After drilling the face bores and the end bore, I used expanding foam to provide a more secure panel.
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