plugging rivet holes - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-09-2009, 09:31 AM   #1
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Trailer: Boler 1300
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Hi all.
I just got a 13ft boler, which I am converting to a mobile dog grooming trailer.
it's gutted and I need to plug all the rivet holes, I don't really want to monkey around with fiberglass patches, there must be a liquid weld or some other product I can squeeze into the holes then sand and paint over.

suggestions please.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:14 AM   #2
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Steve, I am thinking that rivets need to plug the rivets holes. Otherwise the trailer is gonna go wonky! The rivets hold everything together. Maybe I am not understanding what your asking, but if the rivets are the crucial ones, then you need to replace them.



I know with an older Casita we bought, a couple of rivets were missing on the bathroom wall (between the bathroom and bench seat) I thought ok, I will get it fixed when I get it home, even the 3 hour drive home had things wonky......................
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
. . . I need to plug all the rivet holes, I don't really want to monkey around with fiberglass patches, there must be a liquid weld or some other product I can squeeze into the holes then sand and paint over . . .
I use epoxy putty. Designed for fixes in low-stress spots on boat hulls and the like, it's one of those "1000 uses" products that you can pick up from most hardware store paint departments.

You use it this way: Sand the area around the repair area to remove any berm/ridge before you apply the epoxy, then wipe the area down with MEK methyl-ethyl-ketone) solvent to remove any dust or wax (USE CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES). Mix a small amount of epoxy paste with a popsicle stick and dab and press it into the area to be repaired, then smooth the repair out while the epoxy is still "wet" with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Wait 30 minutes, then scrub any epoxy haze around the repair area off with rubbing alcohol and a scrubby sponge. Mix up and apply, and clean up after a second batch of epoxy if the first round didn't quite fill the hole, but don't wait too long after the first batch hardens or the first dab will have cured enough that a second layer of epoxy won't stick properly. The next day you can do some light sanding (if needed the alcohol wipe-down is pretty good at smoothing things out) and use gelcoat repair or paint to match the rest of the finish on yout trailer.

Several people here will also suggest body working spot filler, also available at any hardware store. It is easier to use, but it cures to a rusty-red color and doesn't bond to the fiberglass resin like epoxy does. The epoxy repair cures to an off-white color that's close to the original gelcoat on my trailer and is very tough and permanent.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:17 AM   #4
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Name: Donna D
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I use Marine Epoxy Putty, similar to this link. It's a two-part "stick." Cut off a hunk (wearing gloves as Peter mentiond), knead into a solid color. Roll between fingers into a "sausage," then smoosh into the hole. It's paintable, sandable and waterproof. I used it on the front of the Scamp where I took the Stinky Slinky tube off and the back where I removed the spare tire. Works good and it's cheap. Pretty decent color match to a 21 year old Scamp. Not perfect, but good enough! Altough I'm thinking of a bit of touch up paint or maybe some cool decals as a last coverup.

PC_Marine Putty

I made my purchase at Lowe's the container was blue... but it's the same stuff.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:05 PM   #5
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When replacing rivets are you to put caulk under the plastic washer or does the plastic washer suffice? In all of the rivet threads that I've read I've not seen it mentioned, yet there appears to be caulk under the ones that I am replacing.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:11 PM   #6
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I like PC-11. It can be found at most Hardware stores. It comes in lots of size containers. It is white. I have used it in many, many ways - repaired a gas tank, shoe, fiberglass Casita, etc. You can drill and thread it when it is cured.

http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc11.asp

The website states...
<div align="left">Applications:
Apply PC-11 in any thickness to both sides of surface and bring together firmly. Be careful to insure that ample PC-11 remains between the contact surfaces. Use screen wire or fiberglass cloth to reinforce large voids and gaps. </div>
<div align="left">After cure: Paint Drill, Machine, Sand, File, Tap, or Saw.</div>
<div align="left">PC-11 has hundreds if not thousands of uses. </div>
<div align="left">
  • As Adhesive: Wood, Metal (all types), Glass, Brick, Block, Rubber, Concrete, Stone, Slate, Fiberglass, tile, and more in any and all combinations.
  • As Sealant: Oil, Gas, Water Tanks, Cellar Cracks, Pressure Tanks, and Plumbing Leaks.
  • As a Filler: Holes, Castings, Patterns, Molds, Voids, Welds, and much more.
</div>I hope this helps...
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Steve, I am thinking that rivets need to plug the rivets holes. Otherwise the trailer is gonna go wonky! The rivets hold everything together. Maybe I am not understanding what your asking, but if the rivets are the crucial ones, then you need to replace them.



I know with an older Casita we bought, a couple of rivets were missing on the bathroom wall (between the bathroom and bench seat) I thought ok, I will get it fixed when I get it home, even the 3 hour drive home had things wonky......................
thanks for that, yes I think it would go "wonky" most are form curtain hangers, and awning rail, minor stuff, some are the kitchen cabinets but this will be replaced with "another cabinet" adding the strength back...I hope.
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:01 PM   #8
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I use epoxy putty. Designed for fixes in low-stress spots on boat hulls and the like, it's one of those "1000 uses" products that you can pick up from most hardware store paint departments.

You use it this way: Sand the area around the repair area to remove any berm/ridge before you apply the epoxy, then wipe the area down with MEK methyl-ethyl-ketone) solvent to remove any dust or wax (USE CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES). Mix a small amount of epoxy paste with a popsicle stick and dab and press it into the area to be repaired, then smooth the repair out while the epoxy is still "wet" with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Wait 30 minutes, then scrub any epoxy haze around the repair area off with rubbing alcohol and a scrubby sponge. Mix up and apply, and clean up after a second batch of epoxy if the first round didn't quite fill the hole, but don't wait too long after the first batch hardens or the first dab will have cured enough that a second layer of epoxy won't stick properly. The next day you can do some light sanding (if needed the alcohol wipe-down is pretty good at smoothing things out) and use gelcoat repair or paint to match the rest of the finish on yout trailer.

Several people here will also suggest body working spot filler, also available at any hardware store. It is easier to use, but it cures to a rusty-red color and doesn't bond to the fiberglass resin like epoxy does. The epoxy repair cures to an off-white color that's close to the original gelcoat on my trailer and is very tough and permanent.
Thank you, I think I will go this route, however 1 question, you say it matches your paint....I assume it is paint-able otherwise....hmm on second thought, I could paint it white
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:19 AM   #9
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Trailer: Boler 1300
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Quote:
Hi all.
I just got a 13ft boler, which I am converting to a mobile dog grooming trailer.
it's gutted and I need to plug all the rivet holes, I don't really want to monkey around with fiberglass patches, there must be a liquid weld or some other product I can squeeze into the holes then sand and paint over.

suggestions please.
In case anyone wants to see pics and progress hers a link to my photobucket acct.
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/silverider_bc/
the silverider is for my MC but in the alboms column you will see "BOLER"
hope the link works.
Any ideas suggestions, or if I'm doing something wrong please let me know.
PS. great forum, a wealth if info.

Steve
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:24 PM   #10
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Bryan, When I do replace rivets I always put some silicone sealant under the white washer. And when I plug a hole or small hairline crack, I use a marine epoxy. Comes in one of those two part syringe things with a plunger. Push the plunger out comes the two parts, mix and spread with a popsicle stick. That's after I do some prep work like some sanding around the hole.
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:40 PM   #11
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Trailer: Boler 1300
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Quote:
I use epoxy putty. Designed for fixes in low-stress spots on boat hulls and the like, it's one of those "1000 uses" products that you can pick up from most hardware store paint departments.

You use it this way: Sand the area around the repair area to remove any berm/ridge before you apply the epoxy, then wipe the area down with MEK methyl-ethyl-ketone) solvent to remove any dust or wax (USE CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES). Mix a small amount of epoxy paste with a popsicle stick and dab and press it into the area to be repaired, then smooth the repair out while the epoxy is still "wet" with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Wait 30 minutes, then scrub any epoxy haze around the repair area off with rubbing alcohol and a scrubby sponge. Mix up and apply, and clean up after a second batch of epoxy if the first round didn't quite fill the hole, but don't wait too long after the first batch hardens or the first dab will have cured enough that a second layer of epoxy won't stick properly. The next day you can do some light sanding (if needed the alcohol wipe-down is pretty good at smoothing things out) and use gelcoat repair or paint to match the rest of the finish on yout trailer.

Several people here will also suggest body working spot filler, also available at any hardware store. It is easier to use, but it cures to a rusty-red color and doesn't bond to the fiberglass resin like epoxy does. The epoxy repair cures to an off-white color that's close to the original gelcoat on my trailer and is very tough and permanent.
Thanks all for the replies, I tried the epoxy putty was not too happy. then I found the Marine epoxy putty....WOW thats stuffs great. anfer 5 mins of needing it gets hot, I wasted about 1/2 inch worth, but caught on pretty quick how to work with and manipulate....thanks Donna for that suggestion.
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:50 AM   #12
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Hello Donna
Is smooshing a special technique? Should we have a training session at the next egg meet so we get it right?
Yes epoxy in it's many available forms makes a quick and easy repair whether at home or on the road. We always carry a small package in our "what not" cupboard for quick repairs. It is valuable when a screw or rivet works out and needs to be reset.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:09 AM   #13
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All the above suggestions look like good ones although i haven't tried them yet but for the longest time on fiberglass boats to fill in small holes i've used this stuff with great success.... It comes in two colors "white and grey" so be careful if you use it to get the matching color.
Joe

Marine Tex (read the reviews to make your own decision)
http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-RM305K-Mi...1141&sr=1-1
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:38 PM   #14
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Trailer: 1973 13 ft Boler (Corneleus)
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We were just at Princess Auto and they have the short hair bondo on sale for $10.99 a litre from $15.99. It was suggested to us by a gentleman who does work with boats and such.

Just an FYI for those who have access to a Princess auto

Cheers,

Ursula
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