power for truck fridge in Lil Snoozy - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-12-2018, 07:25 AM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Lite House
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With regards to battery power and fridges, I have an Engel portable fridge that I use for overlanding. It runs on 12V or 120V, and it's swing compressor draws an average of 1 ah (varies with ambient temps and usage). I also run a CPAP while sleeping that takes about 1.3 ah to run.

My FJ Cruiser has a single Odyssey battery that has about a 66 ah capacity if memory serves. It has always started up briskly the next morning after powering the fridge and CPAP overnight.

I do carry one of those little lithium jump starters as backup, but have never had to use it.

I just bought my camper in November, but I see no reason a single AGM battery in the camper won't be able to do the same thing.
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Old 04-12-2018, 07:26 AM   #16
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
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When I was working (?) as an engineer I had young engineers who I said that they called themselves engineers, but couldn't even run a train!
I fixed that by assigning them to work on our GE Diesel Electric locomotive (to broaden their experience some)
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:42 AM   #17
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Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita
North Carolina
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I'm not an engineer (my son is) but its not rocket science either, one would have to audit usage to allow one to be comfortable that any system will suit their needs. We all have different camping styles and very different power needs. I use more power than most because I carry more wants to supplement my actual needs so it would be nearly impossible for anyone to guess my power needs in a useful way.
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Old 04-13-2018, 04:45 PM   #18
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Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
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I am planning on using the truckfridge tf130 in my lil hauley build out. The power supply/battery charger in the trailer will be more than adequate to run it on 12 volts (no need for 120 VAC operation). If you run it while driving your tow vehicle you should have no problem running it because the max current draw by the fridge is 4.4 amps, reducing to 2.2 amps after the fridge reaches temperature. The only issue I can think of is if the wire size in your tow vehicle is small and, consequently, the voltage drop is to large it may draw down the trailer battery charge. I added an additional 10 awg wire in my truck and ran it directly off the fuse box under the hood thru a 30 amp fuse to the trailer plug. I also added a relay controlled by the original wire so the power to the trailer turns off when the truck turns off. I did this primarily to reduce voltage drop so the trailer battery would charge better while driving. Hopefully this helps and is not to long winded!
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Old 04-13-2018, 04:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
Technically, I suppose, everywhere Larry mentions "amps" he's really referring to "amp hours". (I'm an engineer. I can't help it. Send money to help the poor engineers...)
Engineers Explained
Nice list of engineer attributes. I might add that engineers will never complete a project because they keep improving it as they go along. Hence the quote on one of our service supervisors wall "Sometimes you have to shoot the engineer and move on"

Carl EE 72
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:13 PM   #20
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Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita
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I'm planning an extended Alaska trip this summer and should recoup a some of the cost this summer with being comfortable with out campground services. I had already made up my mind to pull the trigger on my solar and battery prior to calling the engineers but I did appreciate the feedback as this project has some significant up front cost. I was able to program my solar controller but had to buy another charge system for the camper. Already had the solar installed so I decided to get the system I thought would last for a number of years. I don't know if I will break even with reduced camping fees or not but I suspect I will as we camp a little over half time now mostly boondocking.
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Old 11-16-2018, 04:31 PM   #21
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Name: Douglas
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I just saw this thread so maybe its too late to help you. But perhaps others have the same question.

Our Lil Snoozy was built last year with a Truck Fridge and came from the factory with the fridge hard wired into the 12V system. It turns on and off from a switch in the fridge. We didn't order the 12V/120V combo fridge because the Snoozy has a 35 Amp WFCO converter to supply 12V power for the trailer. No need to pay extra for another converter in the fridge.
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