power for truck fridge in Lil Snoozy - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-03-2018, 09:04 AM   #1
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Name: Violet
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power for truck fridge in Lil Snoozy

We are about 5 months out from our Snoozy build out and are getting pretty excited. And with the excitement comes lots of questions. So, today's question has to do with truck fridge. We have talked with Richard and he will install it. It is a 12 volt, but of course, campsites will run on 110. How do we go about reducing a 110 volt AC to a 12 volt DC? We would likej to be able to run it off of the tow vehicle, generator, and electrical power at a camp site.

The question and answer are way above my pay grade. Just plalying secretary for my husband.



Thanks,
Violet Johnson
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:08 AM   #2
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This one is 8 amps

https://smile.amazon.com/Converter-H...ighter+adapter
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:19 AM   #3
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Will you have an on-board battery and converter/charger? If yes, you don't need to convert 110 with anything else. Just hard-wire the fridge into your 12 volt circuits. If you don't want to do that and there is a 12-volt outlet that runs off of the battery, plug the fridge into it. When the tow vehicle is connected it will charge the battery that will run the fridge. When plugged into shore power, the converter/charger will charge the battery which will run the fridge. When connected to the generator, the converter/charger will charge the battery which will run the fridge. And if you decide to put Solar in the future that will charge the battery which will run the fridge.
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:39 AM   #4
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truck fridge

buy the model that runs on ac or dc. it switches by itself. that is what i did.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:40 PM   #5
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Agree with post #3. Why pay for an option that is not needed. We have been using ours since 2014, and only have a smart charger to charge the battery while on shore power, 12 volt line from the tow vehicle while driving, and solar or a generator for when off-grid camping.
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
Agree with post #3. Why pay for an option that is not needed. We have been using ours since 2014, and only have a smart charger to charge the battery while on shore power, 12 volt line from the tow vehicle while driving, and solar or a generator for when off-grid camping.

Dave & Paula


That is exactly like ours. Even if it ran off the battery full time as long as your charger can keep up you will be fine. I believe Richard is putting a 35 amp converter in the newer units.
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Old 04-09-2018, 07:25 AM   #7
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You may want to get an extension cord for your electrical line. Snoozy hs a short cord. The extension cord opens up a lot more parking configurations.
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:46 AM   #8
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12v appliance

a semi-truck tractor has a huge 12v system in it a car wont handle it for long I wouldn't count on it running off a trailer battery for long either. if you have 110v buy appliances for that you can maybe run a 12v fridge while you are running down the highway but I wouldn't do it.

plug that stuff into your 12v system you are putting a big strain on your alternator. expensive

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Old 04-11-2018, 06:59 AM   #9
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I have seen portable and permanent 12 volt compression fridges that draw anywhere from 2 to 8 amps max. Those should work fine with your trailer battery but are pricey. I have a portable Dometic right now that draws 7 amps when running (which isn't often). I plan on putting in a permanent Nova Cool fridge in my trailer that draws 2.2 amps when running. I do have solar charging when I don't have access to AC power. I don't think any of these would over-stress your alternator if plugged into the cigarette socket.
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Old 04-11-2018, 10:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
a semi-truck tractor has a huge 12v system in it a car wont handle it for long I wouldn't count on it running off a trailer battery for long either. if you have 110v buy appliances for that you can maybe run a 12v fridge while you are running down the highway but I wouldn't do it.

plug that stuff into your 12v system you are putting a big strain on your alternator. expensive

bob
Bob, your posting is accurate for an absorbtion refrigerator (propane/12volt/110) but is not accurate for the danfoss compressor such as Nova Cool or Truckfridge as examples, like those used in the Lil Snoozy.
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Old 04-11-2018, 11:28 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by David B. View Post
Bob, your posting is accurate for an absorbtion refrigerator (propane/12volt/110) but is not accurate for the danfoss compressor such as Nova Cool or Truckfridge as examples, like those used in the Lil Snoozy.
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Exactly. Different animal. As for running my absorption fridge on DC 12V, I never do it. Not because of any "strain" on the alternator, but because it doesn't cool. A Danfoss compressor fridge will cool to the point of freezing things rock hard, if you want it to.
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:52 AM   #12
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I have a NovaKool R-5810 that should be delivered in the next couple of weeks. In researching forums and talking to engineers the my battery company ReLion, Progressive Dynamics the maker of my charge system and NovaKool as long a you have a good battery you should be able to run a compressor fridge especially if you camp with power. It will pull between 30 and 90 amps per day depending on outside temps so I would advise a robust battery system if possible. I run a 300 amp lithium battery and 350 amps of solar on my camper but I mainly boondock so your system should not require that much capacity to meet your needs. However, you need to monitor your anticipated amp draw if you need to operate off grid and plan accordingly. You could carry a generator for the high amp times during the day as needed, I carry one but don't expect to need it.
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Old 04-12-2018, 07:14 AM   #13
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I have a very old Norcold swing compressor fridge and it runs on either 12 or 120 volts and draws around 40 watts of power when running which it is around 50% of the time.
Measuring with my Watt meter it averaged 17 watts per hour or 24 X 17 watts per day for 408 watts.
In good sun my 100 watt solar paned can handle this.
The drawback is that the swing compressor is fairly noisy when running.
The Norcold I have is 704DE.
Remember the power drawn by a fridge needs to be figured as an average not peak.
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Old 04-12-2018, 07:16 AM   #14
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Technically, I suppose, everywhere Larry mentions "amps" he's really referring to "amp hours". (I'm an engineer. I can't help it. Send money to help the poor engineers...)
http://bcn.boulder.co.us/~neal/engineerhumor.html
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