Prepping a ParkLiner for Winter specifically - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-31-2019, 07:46 AM   #1
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
Prepping a ParkLiner for Winter specifically

Hi All,

Looking for help: I have tried to tackle this winterizing project on my own through numerous resources including the f/g online instructions and YouTube videos. It seems that what I have found is unique to other campers --like a Casita or a Scamp -- but nothing specific to ParkLiners in that the places to locate valves are different.

It is amazing to me that nobody in the past who has a PL has put anything up on YouTube or any other platform to coach others who did not buy their PL from the factory on how to locate the key items necessary to shut off in order to winterize the trailer.

I drained the hot water heater but don't know how to drain the 2 fresh water tanks that I have. I have found a red handle attached to a square shape "U" pipe that looks like it might go from the fresh tank to the hot water tank.

I cannot locate any cold water valve or hot water valve. Can any PL owners out there help me locate and walk me through this? I am a Newbie who is trying to not be a bother but I don't want to ruin my new-to-me camper 2 months into ownership either! I DON'T want to turn to Camping World for help but if I cannot find it anywhere else I will have to.

Signed,
Desperate Tinkerbelle
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:19 AM   #2
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 2,486
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Bill here.

I highly recommend mastering this task. First, its not that big of a job. Secondly, if you camp in the winter, you may up doing it more than once a season. I did mine three times last winter, twice on the road! Third, not a big fan of Camping World myself. Last, like me, you might end up having to do it in transit, if so, DIY wins.

This is a nice tool, and watch their video too. I defer to PL owners who probably know where stuff is located. Inspect your fresh tank, there will be a drain somewhere. A couple of the Escape owners showed me the Camco pump at Cherokee. Easier than how I had been doing it.

Cheapest source I have found for RV antifreeze is Walmart.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Antifre...NK6D2R2NC0RYYX

I use one of these, along with an air compressor, but really, the hand pump looks like a winner:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C...NK6D2R2NC0RYYX

Note to anyone out there, your trailer does not need to have water tanks to need winterization. If you have water faucets, a sink, and city water hookup, even without a tank you will need winterization (unless you live in a very warm climate). So my 1977 Trillium needs winterization despite no water tanks, no water pump and no toilet. But it's simple.
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:36 AM   #3
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
Trailer: Parkliner
Iowa
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If you send me your e-mail, I will send you the procedure I wrote for our 2016 PL
What year is yours?
Lwgcollins@aol.com
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:49 AM   #4
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Name: John
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
Posts: 38
I copied this from an earlier post:

How to Winterize Your ParkLiner:
A Step-by-Step Procedure

For those of you who have decided to park your ParkLiner for the winter, there are some easy steps you should take to ensure your unit is securely winterized, so it’s ready to roll with no issues in the spring. Follow these, and your ParkLiner will weather the winter like a breeze.

1.) Thoroughly clean your ParkLiner, and remove all food and fragrance-bearing items.
2.) Shut off your water pump if it’s on.
3.) Open the *drain valve on the **fresh water tank (located on the bottom rear-facing side of the port side tank).
4.) Open the drain valves on water system’s pressure side (located between the starboard (curb) side wheel well and the hot water heater, as viewed from the inside of the trailer). You will have to reach down to access them.
5.) Open the faucets in the bath and sink, and flush the toilet if so equipped.
6.) Remove the anode rod from the water heater as per the manufacturer’s instructions. A ratcheting socket driver works best (1 1/16-inch).
7.) Walk around the trailer and look to make sure the system’s water has finished draining before proceeding to the next steps.
8.) Close the fresh water tank *drain valve (the one you opened in step No. 3).
9.) Close the cold water pressure *side valve (located on the white pipe that opened in step No. 4).
10.) Close the water heater *bypass valve (located between the water heater and the cabin face of the rear bench just to the right of the galley).
11.) Close the faucets in the bath and galley.
12.) With the help of a funnel, pour one gallon of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank; some systems may require more.
13.) Turn the water pump on.
14.) Open the cold water faucet in the galley until antifreeze runs out; then close it.
15.) Flush the toilet until antifreeze runs in to the bowl; then flush it a few more times.
16.) Open the cold water side of the shower faucet, and turn on the shower pump; make sure antifreeze goes down the shower drain.
17.) You are done until spring!

*The drain valves are high quality brass ball valves. They are opened and closed by moving a lever 90 degrees. When the lever is parallel to the pipe, the valve is open, and when perpendicular, it is closed. Campers with an outside faucet may not have a cold water pressure side valve inside; drainage is via the outside faucet.
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Old 10-31-2019, 11:44 AM   #5
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Name: Harry
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
Posts: 20
Parkliner Valve photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjiwjr View Post
I copied this from an earlier post:

How to Winterize Your ParkLiner:
A Step-by-Step Procedure

For those of you who have decided to park your ParkLiner for the winter, there are some easy steps you should take to ensure your unit is securely winterized, so itís ready to roll with no issues in the spring. Follow these, and your ParkLiner will weather the winter like a breeze.

1.) Thoroughly clean your ParkLiner, and remove all food and fragrance-bearing items.
2.) Shut off your water pump if itís on.
3.) Open the *drain valve on the **fresh water tank (located on the bottom rear-facing side of the port side tank).
4.) Open the drain valves on water systemís pressure side (located between the starboard (curb) side wheel well and the hot water heater, as viewed from the inside of the trailer). You will have to reach down to access them.
5.) Open the faucets in the bath and sink, and flush the toilet if so equipped.
6.) Remove the anode rod from the water heater as per the manufacturerís instructions. A ratcheting socket driver works best (1 1/16-inch).
7.) Walk around the trailer and look to make sure the systemís water has finished draining before proceeding to the next steps.
8.) Close the fresh water tank *drain valve (the one you opened in step No. 3).
9.) Close the cold water pressure *side valve (located on the white pipe that opened in step No. 4).
10.) Close the water heater *bypass valve (located between the water heater and the cabin face of the rear bench just to the right of the galley).
11.) Close the faucets in the bath and galley.
12.) With the help of a funnel, pour one gallon of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank; some systems may require more.
13.) Turn the water pump on.
14.) Open the cold water faucet in the galley until antifreeze runs out; then close it.
15.) Flush the toilet until antifreeze runs in to the bowl; then flush it a few more times.
16.) Open the cold water side of the shower faucet, and turn on the shower pump; make sure antifreeze goes down the shower drain.
17.) You are done until spring!

*The drain valves are high quality brass ball valves. They are opened and closed by moving a lever 90 degrees. When the lever is parallel to the pipe, the valve is open, and when perpendicular, it is closed. Campers with an outside faucet may not have a cold water pressure side valve inside; drainage is via the outside faucet.
Even with these instructions left from the previous owner, I had a problem with finding the starboard valves, so I attached some photos. I also attached photos of a very handy spout that screws directly onto the antifreeze jugs that I found at Tractor Supply. I have two fresh water tanks and use three gallons for my Parkliner. Once you find these valves, it is not a difficult thing to do. The spout makes it easy to pour the antifreeze into the fresh water tanks. I also dump a little extra antifreeze down the toilet, shower and sink drains to be sure they have antifreeze left in them.
Attached Thumbnails
fresh water tank(s) drain.jpg   Hot Water Tank Bypass Valve.jpg  

Starboard Press Water Lines drain valves.jpg   Overall Area View Starboard Valves.jpg  

antifreeze spout 1.jpg   antifreeze spout 2.jpg  

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Old 10-31-2019, 04:05 PM   #6
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
3.) Open the *drain valve on the **fresh water tank (located on the bottom rear-facing side of the port side tank).
4.) Open the drain valves on water system’s pressure side (located between the starboard (curb) side wheel well and the hot water heater, as viewed from the inside of the trailer). You will have to reach down to access them.

I found one red valve that was by the Flowjet on the portside (if the webath is considered the bow) that says "Sharkbite" and I can feel that it is parallel to the line. When I pulled on it it says either "On" or "Off" ...parallel is considered "On" so is that valve considered "Open"?

I found one similar red valve in the front and base of the Styrofoam wrapped hot water heater is located - right where the cabinet door opens up. Is is attached to a white squared "U" shape piping....Is this my cold water valve? It is parallel to the pipe.

I found another red valve to the far left (opposite side from the 2nd water tank) that is connected to a red piping that travels from the top of the Styrofoam wrapped hot water heater and connects into it by a sticker that says "Hot"...is that my hot water valve? It is perpendicular to the pipe...but I have not used the hot water heater since I purchased the PL so maybe that makes sense.

If I have indeed found the Hot water and Cold water valves then isn't there a 3rd valve that I need to find? (As I mentioned earlier...I have already drained the hot water tank and removed the anode.)

What do I do now? Which way - and at what point in the process - should these valves be turned?
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:31 PM   #7
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Name: Harry
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
Posts: 20
As you describe your Parkliner, it is plumbed differently than mine (made in Dec 2013). However, the drain valves have to be down low in order for the water to flow out of the camper. Can you take photos?
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:38 PM   #8
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
I will try but not sure if I know how to load them to the forum. If you or anybody else are willing to PM me with your cell phone # I can text the photos over to you.
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:43 PM   #9
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Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinkerbelle View Post
3.)

What do I do now? Which way - and at what point in the process - should these valves be turned?
The valve to the right of the hot water tank is the bypass for the tank.

On the left of the hot water tank are 2 valves, but only 1 is easily visible. Directly below it is the other valve. I don't remember which is hot and which is cold, but those are the 3 valves in the hot water tank compartment.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:09 PM   #10
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
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Ok let me ask this question....the valves say on them "ON" and "OFF"...is "ON" = Open (parallel to the line) and "OFF" = Closed (perpendicular to the line)?
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:12 PM   #11
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Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinkerbelle View Post
Ok let me ask this question....the valves say on them "ON" and "OFF"...is "ON" = Open (parallel to the line) and "OFF" = Closed (perpendicular to the line)?
When I'm not sure, I put some water in the freshwater tank, turn on the water pump, and then try the valve in both positions to be sure which is which.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:30 PM   #12
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
I have not used the Flojet pump yet. Been using city water hook up. Already disconnected hose due to temps for tonight. So how much water do I put in the tank and then do I just flip the flojet switch and turn on a faucet?
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:32 PM   #13
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
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Dont know how to send Pics of my camper. When I click on "insert image" I am prompted to insert an Http: address and no option to search for image on my computer.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:39 PM   #14
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
pics of the valves I did find

some are parallel to the line some are perpendicular so I don't know which is open and which closed unless to make "parallel with line" is to open and to make perpendicular is "to close"

I felt further below the valve to the left of the hot water heater and felt a smaller valve that feels as if it is also perpendicular to the line but I cannot see it.

So now, I have found 4 valves....
1-one parallel to the line under the flojet
2-one parallel to the line in front of the hot water heater (where it says "COLD")
3-one perpendicular to the red pipe coming from the hot water heater
4-one that also feels perpendicular to the pipe but I cannot see it

So, what do I do with these?
Attached Thumbnails
the valve that I found under the Flojet that was parallel when I found it.jpg   valve down under Flojet that says On or Off.jpg  

the valve that is in front of hot water heater found to be parallel to the line.jpg   another view of valve perpendicular to line that is to the left of the hot water heater.jpg  

valve underneath Flojet that is under bench on port side of camper.jpg   valve to the left of hot water heater on starboard side by sink found to be perpendicular to the.jpg  

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Old 10-31-2019, 05:48 PM   #15
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
GA
Posts: 59
To say "close" the valve means nothing to me if I don't know which way the valve should be...parallel to the line or perpendicular.

I always thought parallel = open. However, the valve by the Flojet (located on the port/left side of camper) is parallel to the line where it connects but the valve to the red line that goes to the hot water heater (starboard/right hand side near sink) and the smaller underneath it on the floorboard is perpendicular, and the valve in the front bottom of the hot water heater is parallel to the line where it is attached.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:52 PM   #16
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
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Okay Huck,
regarding the 3 valves in the hot water containment...what position should they be in to begin winterizing? Parallel or perpendicular. Seems like I saw in a Youtube that the bypass for the hot water tank should be closed...that is to say perpendicular, right?

And then do the other 2 valves need to be in the parallel position to the pipe so that the pink stuff will flow in?
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:55 PM   #17
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
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And can somebody confirm that if the valve under my Flojet is parallel to the line then it is in the "Open" position such that the tank cannot hold any water. And that I should now "Close" it (make perpendicular to the line) so that the pink stuff will not drip out onto the ground when I go to pour it in from the two outside pour spouts (there is one on each side) - or can I pour it all via one?
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:23 PM   #18
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
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Hoping not to confuse matters, but on my Escape and in the mains to my house, when a valve is parallel to the line it is open.
I close the valves ( bypass ) to prevent anti-freeze from filling the water heater ( previously drained ). I also, do not put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank ( also drained ).
I'll stop with that, since I have no idea of your Parkliner setup.
Attached Thumbnails
bypass.JPG  
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:27 PM   #19
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Name: MJ
Trailer: Park Liner
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Ok folks, what I (think) have done:

I closed the water tank on the port side of camper and I assume that it is somehow connected to the other water tank that is on the starboard side ...so that I only have to mess with the one by the Flojet.

I opened both valves that are:#1 to the left of hot water tank & #2 underneath and to the left of the hot water tank.

Then, I turned on all faucets and flushed the toilet. No water flowed, but like I said earlier, I have been using city water and I have not put any water in the fresh water tanks.

Then I closed the faucets and I closed the valve that I think is the hot water shut off valve by turning the valve perpendicular to the line....

however in this Youtube on winterizing Casitas the owner says the opposite... that if the valve is parallel to the line then it is in the "bypass" position: https://youtu.be/xxqWov7tjEQ This makes me question my thinking even though my research online says that for a ball valve when the valve is in the perpendicular position it is "closed."

This begs the question, does "close" = "bypass"? The valve I have simply says "Off' and "On." So, when the valve is "Off" does this mean the bypass mode is "off" and I should leave it parallel ("On") in order to be in "bypass mode"?

Now what do I do? I am unable to do the "blowout" method of winterizing.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:02 PM   #20
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Name: Huck
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Virginia
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I'll check mine tomorrow and let you know. I might even winterize it if I still have anti-freeze.
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