Problems in using boards to level trailer! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-29-2009, 10:01 PM   #15
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Trailer: 2012 Escape 19 / 2013 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4 Diesel!!!
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The BAL leveler works great!!!
The only issue I sometimes have is trying to get it under the tire. I opted for 15" tires and if the ground is flat it slides under easily. We also dry camp in remote places that are usually dirt, rocks and generally uneven ground. In those conditions it can be a bear to slide past the tire. I have resorted to using my trusty shovel a few times to 'clean' out the high points on the ground. Yes it does require grease on the threads but it just sits in the back of my pickup when driving so it's not an issue for us. I like the pizza bag idea though........!!!

Overall it works very well.



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Old 10-27-2009, 09:59 PM   #16
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I have the Bal leveler too. I have a very hard time getting it around the tire. I have given up more than once. Yes, shoveling under the sides of the tire would do the trick, but this ole lady is not going to shovel the ground just to get the Bal Leveler around the tire. It needs to be made just a wee bit wider to fit around the tire more easily.
It is a great invention, but not wide enough.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:18 PM   #17
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I use those yellow"Lego-like" blocks without a problem. I can always guess close, so I have never had to reposition more than once.
I looked at the bal leveler and I think it is a great product, but I just can't justify carrying it around ...maybe if someone offered one that broke down to a smaller package??
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:06 AM   #18
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A comment about the above discussion about the weight restriction to 1800 pounds as a limiting factor. Remember, you are only lifting one wheel. The other wheel is still upon the ground taking at least half the trailer weight or more so it could be used quite easily on a 3000 pound plus trailer.

I took two pieces of rough hewn, 2" thick, western red cedar left over from an Inuit paddle project and made a ramp. I can run up on it to first level for 2" rise or to the next level for an additional 2" rise. That's all I have ever needed. Lightweight, compact, smells good, easy to store. The second piece is screwed to half the first, bottom piece, 18" or so overall length.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:42 AM   #19
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I use one of these.

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Old 10-28-2009, 03:24 PM   #20
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These all look like good options but none of the options look like they would work with tandem wheels. Has any one got solutions for those of us with tandems?
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:51 PM   #21
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I carry a 10 - 2x6's at 12" long. This way I have enough to use at least one per stabilizer, and have up to 6 for leveling under the wheels. I did chamfer the top sides on the ends to assist in pulling the trailer up on the tires on the side needing elevating.

My trailer has tandem axles. I have been using this method without incident for many years now. I am not a cheapskate, but when I looked at the price of the plastic stacking blocks, I could not possibly substantiate the cost.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:26 PM   #22
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I, too, love the BAL - even though it is heavy (but mine came in a box which has held up well for several years now - cuts down on the mess).
The best tip for the BAL -
on uneven ground (for getting it under the tire)
- drive onto a block to raise the tire a little bit first
or sand (after the BAL has dug down into the sand for several days)
- put a block under the tire before letting the BAL down

I've used this several times - no digging, no stress

and no going back and forth and back and forth
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
I'm going to search the forums and read up what has been discussed, but any further info on Pro's and Con's would be appreciated.
I met some people who sold their Bal Leveler because they felt their 17.5' Bigfoot was too heavy for it.
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:46 PM   #24
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One thing I like about the BAL leveler, is it's something I can use completely by myself. I tried the blocks and more times than not drove the trailer tire completely over it. Sure, you could put several down in a row, but with the BAL it doesn't matter where I park, I can always level the trailer quickly.
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:03 PM   #25
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Thanks for the tip about driving the trailer up onto a piece of wood and then using the Bal leveler. I was thinking I might try that. Sounds like plan :-)
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:04 PM   #26
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Quote:
Will it work on a twin axle (like a Fiber Stream)?
The packaging has a statement that it is for single axle trailers only. I would think that you'd need 2 placed side-by-side if you were trying to raise a double axle trailer, and you'd have to crank the screws up together. I'm not sure there is room enough... (axles spaced far enough apart)

I have 2 sets of the 10 pack yellow plastic blocks. I rarely need to use more than 1 set, but sometimes I need more to raise up the stabilizing jackstands in addition to those under the tires.
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:31 PM   #27
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If my memory is not failing me this topic has been discussed previously. I use Lynx blocks with Lynx stop.

1. Drive on the final parking site.

2. Measure side to side trailer tilt angle using digital level.

3. Use simple cheat-sheet to get lift height from the angle.

4. Build the Lynx structure for including Lynx stop (Bigfoot 21 double axles).

5. Drive on and stop on the stop.

George.
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