Problems in using boards to level trailer! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-29-2009, 09:58 AM   #1
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2011 Toyota Sienna
Ontario
Posts: 207
Hi,
I 'WAS' using some pieces of 2 X 8 boards to level my trailer. One of the pieces went downward into a depression and flipped up as I pulled forward. It snapped the handle of the grey water pull handle and put enough pressure to crack the pipe fittings and I now have several drips that I have to fix for next year. Bummer!
I'll be buying those Lynx orange plastic stackable levelers that have their own storage bag for next year.
They look like they won't easily flip up and can be stacked and overlapped for a few heights!
I thought that I was doing the right thing and was clever and saving bucks! NOT!
If you are doing the same thing, make sure that anytime you are leveling that side with the plumbing (usually Driver's side!) that you are very careful. Or, like me, find a safer alternative.
Mike
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:05 AM   #2
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Quote:
find a safer alternative.
Mike
This is my choice, no pulling back and forth, putting on blocks, removing blocks. Just park, stick the BAL leveler under the tire, lift to level. DONE.
BAL Leveler at Camping World
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:04 PM   #3
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2011 Toyota Sienna
Ontario
Posts: 207
Donna;
I like it!
I did see this discussed a long time ago and had forgotten about it.
Since I had no problems before, it didn't occur to me to research it. It does sound like an answer. Now my wheels are at the load C limit of 1760 pounds so I wonder if this leveler will have any problem with that. It also does look bulky to store.
I'm going to search the forums and read up what has been discussed, but any further info on Pro's and Con's would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike .....>

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This is my choice, no pulling back and forth, putting on blocks, removing blocks. Just park, stick the BAL leveler under the tire, lift to level. DONE.
BAL Leveler at Camping World
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:00 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
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Hi Michael,

The BAL Leveler is great and I love ours BUT a.) The screw requires grease which then gets over everything b.) 2. The leveler gets dirty (of course) c.) it takes up space.

The partial solution people have come up with is to store the leveler in a pizza delivery bag. It will still take up space in the trailer unless you could figure out a way to store it outside.

All that being said I would not camp without it.
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:36 PM   #5
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Name: james
Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
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This is my choice, no pulling back and forth, putting on blocks, removing blocks. Just park, stick the BAL leveler under the tire, lift to level. DONE.
BAL Leveler at Camping World
I like that. Can it also be used as a wheel lock?
How much lift can you achieve?
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:52 PM   #6
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Name: Larry H
Trailer: Trillium
Arizona
Posts: 303
Hello,
The Bal leveler works great, especially on a very uneven camping spot. Photo shows my Trill in
the last camp spot in a campground at Bryce Canyon this summer. The BAL leveler was at its
maximun elevation to get the trailer level. The other tire and the roller on the landing gear were chocked.
It would have been real tough to use this spot using boards as levelers.
Recommended+

Good Luck, Larry H.


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Old 09-29-2009, 03:01 PM   #7
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Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft / 2001 Toyota Tundra V8 2wd
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I've been thinking about using a couple of regular car scissor jacks as levelers on my Burro, it seems easier to fine tune the height instead of using 2x lumber. The frame is fully boxed, the rear bumper is pretty stout too. Any pros or cons about doing it this way?
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:32 PM   #8
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Name: Ches
Trailer: 1992 Kustom Koach 17 FT
British Columbia
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I've been thinking about using a couple of regular car scissor jacks as levelers on my Burro, it seems easier to fine tune the height instead of using 2x lumber. The frame is fully boxed, the rear bumper is pretty stout too. Any pros or cons about doing it this way?
I did what you are thinking of doing. I bent the frame and put door out of alignment. Be care full. The big stickies you see all have jacks on the four corners. They are not for lifting but for stablelising only.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:41 PM   #9
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
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Me too, everything Booker says...big, bulky, dirty, but would leave home without it. Setting up is so easy, lust pull into the spot, look around, feel good, then go ahead and level.
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:01 PM   #10
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Trailer: 2009 Scamp 16 ft / 2003 Durango
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I made up a piece of 1 1/2" pvc the length of the all thread and the nut.
I glued a cap on one end and a threaded adapter on the other end.
I put a piece of foam rubber in the tube to cushion the nut and allthread when put in.
Then I put a threaded pvc cap on.
This solves the grease problem.

Bill K
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:41 PM   #11
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Fiber Stream 16 ft
California
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This is my choice, no pulling back and forth, putting on blocks, removing blocks. Just park, stick the BAL leveler under the tire, lift to level. DONE.
BAL Leveler at Camping World
Will it work on a twin axle (like a Fiber Stream)?

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:28 PM   #12
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Name: Peter
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Oregon
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Hi Michael,

The BAL Leveler is great and I love ours BUT a.) The screw requires grease which then gets over everything b.) 2. The leveler gets dirty (of course) c.) it takes up space.

The partial solution people have come up with is to store the leveler in a pizza delivery bag. It will still take up space in the trailer unless you could figure out a way to store it outside.
I have a BAL Leveler and think it's great, much better than blocks. Just park the trailer and winch up the low side and the trailer gets leveled left-to-right and very solidly chocked into place.

I wanted a way to store it outside so the grease and dirt would stay outside, too. What I did was weld some corner braces to the frame under my 5er's loft:


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The bottom rail and top rail work together as a "dock" that the leveler slides in to when it's time to break camp and stow it for towing. The lock in the top rail slides through a hole in one of the leveler's wheel plates (which also has a notch in it so the hasp of the lock can be threaded through) and stops the leveler from sliding out and falling off while we're towing. The lock also keeps it from wandering off should some discount-minded passerby thinks it's available . . . cheap . . . while we're parked.

This solution is specific to a Scamp 5er design, but you could do something similar on a conventional trailer by welding a piece of large-diameter EMT conduit/pipe to either side of the tongue that you could tuck the arms of the leveler in to from above so it forms an arch.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:17 PM   #13
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Trailer: 1999 21 ft Bigfoot (2500 series)
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wil it work on a 21' big foot?
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:50 PM   #14
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Trailer: 1999 Scamp 13 ft and 2003 Bigfoot 17 ft (15B17CB)
Wisconsin
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Hi all,I called the company last year and was told the weight limit was 1800 lbs. I have to admit it seems to be the outside limit for the 2900 lb ,dry weight Bigfoot. We use it on both trailers (Scamp and Bigfoot) but the BF requires the low tire to be on a leveler block to apply and remove. The 15 inch tires will otherwise be difficult to "capture". I believe it only is meant for single axle trailers.
Tony and Darlene
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