Question about winterizing and general storage - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-17-2018, 02:15 PM   #1
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Trillium
Alberta
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Question about winterizing and general storage

Winter comes early in my part of Canada, so I'm already starting to think about winterization (it's a few months away, still but I want to make sure I'll have everything I need when the time comes).

I read the article on winterization and noticed this:

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3. Stressing the frame in the middle by jacking up the ends probably isn't a good thing to do. If you MUST jack it up, just use a single jack stand on either side near the axle mount. The frame was designed to take stress there from the axle.

While it has been suggested that taking stress off the torsion axle for the winter will make the axle last longer, experience shows that for a trailer with a properly sized and rated axle, there's very little difference that it makes. Torsion axles are designed with about a fifteen year lifespan. Most will make it twenty, and some have gone as long as thirty years before they need replacement!
Does this mean I should have the trailer just sitting on the axle/tires, without any stabilizer jacks, when it's not in use (overwinter and also when it's just in the driveway, waiting for the weekend trip)? I've read other sources that say you shouldn't leave your trailer with all the weight on its tires when not in use, because the tires can develop flat spots. Which is accurate?

If it helps, I'm talking about a 13' Trillium.
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:32 AM   #2
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Name: Steve
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You can put it on blocks at the front, rear, and middle, such that the wheels are hanging.
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:58 AM   #3
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 13' 1973 Boler - tow/2017 Colorado Crew-Cab
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Winter Storage

Snow-load is your biggest concern, if it is stored outdoors. We've chosen to build a specific 'Boler Barn' for our egg.
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:42 PM   #4
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I do raise mine off the ground on 5 points: jack stands near the axle, tongue jack, and rear stabilizers. Modern radial tires do not develop flat spots, but Scamp and torsion axle manufacturers recommend the practice. Aside from that, I like how solid the trailer feels. I use it as an extra office when I need a quiet retreat.

For the snow load at your latitude, I'd do two things. (1) Add floor-to-ceiling braces inside. 2x4's with squares of plywood top and bottom should do it. (2) Remove snow during and after major snow events. Powdery snow is not a problem, but heavy wet snow and/or accumulated old snow that partly melts and refreezes is bad.

If humidity is a problem, remove cushions and fabrics and use a chemical desiccant to keep mildew at bay.

Drain the water system and put a gallon of RV antifreeze in the tank. Pour a little in the sink drain to protect the trap.

Somehow you need to keep the battery charged. Since I don't have power at my trailer, I remove the battery and keep it on a smart charger/maintainer is a storage room.

Most important, inspect inside the trailer regularly. If a leak opens or critters get inside, the sooner you find out the less damage is done.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:05 AM   #5
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 16
Thanks for the tips everyone! And thanks for the indepth info, Jon. It will be sorted outside for at least this first winter, so I definitely intend to make sure I'm regularly clearing snow off the roof, and will also take the suggestion of adding bracing on the inside in case I can't get to it right away.

I currently don't have a water tank (it's on the "to buy" list), but the previous owner has had the trailer connected to water at campsites, so I will need to winterize those water lines and the sink.
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