Question re Bigfoot Weight - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-05-2003, 12:49 PM   #15
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>>beer alone

Well, whenever we come to Canada, we've carry a "MAXIMUM" legal capacity of spirits! :) :) Y'all pay an arm and a leg for booze!

Margarita mix is lighter to carry, because you can add ice as you go along!
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Old 03-05-2003, 12:50 PM   #16
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Make that an '83 Bigfoot...

Make that an '83 Bigfoot...

I mis-recollected the year on this pup-- it's an '83. My impression is that the older ones are substantially lighter than the new ones. Less fiberglass jewelry on the exterior, for one thing.

If my &%$#!! tow package gets installed before it sells I think I'll take a trip up to Beautiful British Columbia and give it a test drag to the scales.

My Previa's supposed to be able to haul 3500, but I want to stay very much on the light side of that. This family of sailors knows how to pack light, but water's still a pint a pound the world around, and we are heading for the desert.

Thanks for all the input. :wave

Kitty
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Old 03-05-2003, 12:59 PM   #17
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>>impression is that the older ones are substantially lighter

No doubt, newer rigs are heavier, because people are wanting more and more options, etc .... but I'm not sure the word "substantially" is correct.

As I said, all manufacturers used to really play-loose with the actual weight of their rigs.

While they may have not really been lying ... for example, the dry weight might have just been for an empty shell ... the quoted weight was an unrealistic weight, because no one ever bought an empty shell.

Over the past few years, more and more manufacturers are quoting more accurate weights for their rigs ... because more and more people are wising up to the fact that one of the first things they should do, is go weigh the rig.

Some Class A folks find that even today, while the weight falls within the axle weight restrictions, the "side to side" weight overloads one side over another, and causes tire problems, etc.

This is another reason I really, really thank God that my wife and I are content to run around with a tiny, little, light-weight RV.

Thank God for molded fiberglass trailers!
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Old 03-05-2003, 08:40 PM   #18
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Bigfoot weight

Hi:

I noticed that the 2002 Bigfoot had a tongue weight of 230 lbs, but next year, the exact same model was 350 lbs. I queried Bigfoot, as there was no change in axle placement or equipment, but they did not provide a reasonable answer.

I would have the unit taken over a weight scale, as was suggested.

I think many RV manufacturers have not always been truthful with weights, but perhaps may face liability issues.

Just a thought!
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Old 03-05-2003, 08:47 PM   #19
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Kitty

Kitty the trailer specs will be posted inside the vehicle, most likely inside the closet door. Ask the dealer/salesguy to read them out to you over the phone.
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Old 03-06-2003, 10:45 AM   #20
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Here's a thought...

If the trailer is in Canada, you might be getting a weight that is in Kilograms. Multiply by 2.2 to get pounds.

(Remember, the Mars lander was destroyed because it went off course. It went off course because one team used Imperial units for measurement and one used Metric. Be sure of your measurement system!)

Nathan
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Old 03-06-2003, 10:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Nathan and Daisy Justus

If the trailer is in Canada, you might be getting a weight that is in Kilograms. Multiply by 2.2 to get pounds.
That was my first thought, too, and I asked him about it. He assured me it was pounds, not kilos.

If, by some miracle, I get up there before it sells, I'll

1) look inside the closet for a specs sheet
2) insist on taking a test drive
3) haul it off to a public scale.

It's only about a three hour drive from here. Of course, the return run through the border may run a lot longer, but I'm used to that. I would also have to stop and refill my stock of BC hard cider. That's a must.

Thanks all,

Kitty
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Old 03-06-2003, 11:21 AM   #22
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Turning radius

What do you think? Will getting a trailer into my steep-hairpin-turn-at-the-top driveway be manageable? Not to store it, but for refits/cleaning. Pulling in, backing out is impractical, but I'm thinking that if I drove up and pulled the minivan into the garage, we could disconnect and manhandle the trailer around on the flat area, and reconnect for a straight pull outbound.

You can't see my driveway, of course, but what's your experience with rotating one of these lightweights by hand? In a pinch I think we could use a come-along secured to the trees.

Be assured, I am *very* aware of the possibility of runaways, and would make judicious use of wheel chocks and 4x4 barrier boards, though I am only talking about working on the flat area outside the garage.

Thanks,

Kitty
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Old 03-07-2003, 03:50 PM   #23
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Kitty, there is a misconception out there that the older rigs were lighter because the GVWR on them apparently only applied to the dry shell before "options" that are now standard (such as the closet, bunks, table, range, kitchen unit, electric stuf, etc.) It may also have been a misunderstanding by the buying public as to what GVWR actually meant.

The tag on my 1991 Scamp 13' list a gvwr of 950 lbs, but it came with load range B tires and a 2000 lb axle, and certainly weighs more than that ("wet", with all my personal junk aboard, it weighs in at 1,700 lbs and I dont have converter, gray/black tanks, water heater, ac, refrigerator, etc.). Someday I'll take everything out, including the propane and battery and tongue jack and weigh it, look at the "950 lbs" and really laugh. When I did an axle replacement, I had it "rubbered" for 2,200 lbs, which I believe Scamp currently puts under the 13's.

I surmise the old 950 used by Scamp and Casita was to sell a trailer that weighed less than 1,000 lbs, so it didn't need brakes, special license, etc (in Vermont, trailers under 1,000 lbs don't even need a title). This would be kind of like all the 9.5 and 9.9 outboard engines that started to be marketed when there started to be restrictions on motors of 10 hp or greater (another "legislative threshold" at 50 hp).

Charles, are you sure that the Casita 13' has the big axle under it? Between high tire pressures and a really stiff suspension, that would tend to shake that smaller unit to pieces in short order -- Kinda like putting a 3/4 ton truck suspension on a Honda Civic...

Pete and Rats
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Old 03-07-2003, 05:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Pete Dumbleton

Kitty, there is a misconception out there that the older rigs were lighter because the GVWR on them apparently only applied to the dry shell before "options" that are now standard (such as the closet, bunks, table, range, kitchen unit, electric stuf, etc.) It may also have been a misunderstanding by the buying public as to what GVWR actually meant.
Pete,

Wow, quite a bit of fudging there! Actually, I based my belief of the weight difference strictly on the amount of *stuff* stuck into the newer models. Plywood instead of 'glass, more doodads-- nice, but not as nice as being able to pull the sucker.

Thanks for the info.

Kitty
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Old 03-08-2003, 08:26 AM   #25
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>>Casita 13' has the big axle

No Pete. I'm not sure. I know they moved the 16 footer to the bigger axle ... but am not sure about the 13 footer.

Best thing for folks to do, is call the factory, and ask for the current specs.
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:32 AM   #26
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Turning, runaways, etc.

Kitty,

I would think that what you are proposing to do to man-handle (oops! person-handle!) your trailer for a turn-around would be easily do-able with, as you say, some precautions against having it take a walk on its own. Before we got the Casita we used to take our small Rockwood tent-camper into some way-way-back spots where there wasn't much room to do much of anything in the way of maneuvering. One trick we learned was to carry one of those hand-cranked lightweight winches or come-alongs to put the trailer into tight little spots. Tedious, but it worked. This also helped us to turn around on those occasions where we got to the end of a track and there was nothing there and no room to turn truck and trailer around at the same time. I'll bet you can do it, but do be super careful!
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Old 03-08-2003, 03:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Robert Brummett
I would think that what you are proposing to do to man-handle (oops! person-handle!) your trailer for a turn-around would be easily do-able with, as you say, some precautions against having it take a walk on its own.
Robert,

I was thinnking of a time when I was dragging a very lightweight tent trailer north on Highway 15 in your neck of the woods. A semi had careened sideways down the narrowest point above the Susquahana, completely blocking the road. I was stuck with two small hungry, children and no hope of backtracking, when three burly guys helped me do a u-turn by literally picking up the camper and carrying it around into a 180o position. I don't think I'll be able to do that with a light hardshell. :)

Thanks,

Kitty
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Old 03-08-2003, 03:07 PM   #28
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Hmm, what I need is some sort of wheel, kinda like the wheels that come on some of the larger tongue jacks, to move the trailer when I get into a situation where I have to separate the truck and egg (usually on unfriendly surfaces like sand, mud or unlevel dirt when that happens, so the little tongue-jack wheels won't do).

OTOH, maybe some sort of skid for the tongue jack base would be enuf, as I usually wind up using the truck and a tow strap for power anyway. Also with a skid, nothing is going to roll away by itself very easily...

Pete and Rats
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