Questions about 1988 13.5 Lil Bigfoot

[EllPea in CA]

I have 3 questions:

1. How hard is it to find an awning, and how are they attached?

2. This one doesn't have a water heater... are they very costly, and/or difficult to install?

3. Owner mentions "new castors." She's described to me what these are, but so far I'm not getting a clear picture on where they are or what is their use. Any insights appreciated.

Thank you everyone for your thoughtful, continued assistance.

LP

[EllPea in CA]

Also, do these trailers have insulation? Are they a single or a double layer of FG?

[Bob Miller]

We had a Lil'Bigfoot, here are some "after pics:
The Best 13 Ft RV On The Planet by Robert Miller | Photobucket


To answer your questions:


A short awning can be attached in the same manner as on a Scamp, basically a real PITA.


I don't think that a water heater was a factory option. I installed a 4 gallon water heater for hot water in the sink and at an outside shower panel. It's a very tight fit, look in the pics., and you can see that I had to create a mount for it at the bottom where the body curved under to quickly. The smaller 3-4 gallon water heaters can be hard to find.


They have no more insulation than a Scamp, they are single shell hulls.


The front utility box is exceptionally nice to have.


BTW: Ours has all new/updated graphics, let me know if the one you are looking at has the same ones.


There is a company in BC that has the molds and is trying to get them beck into production under the Boler name or something like that.


Owners sometime put swivel wheels (castors) under the back end of the frame to roll on instead of scraping on dips and drive ways. That may be what they mean.


I think that overall build quality is a bit better than Scamps and they use a square edge door that fits and doesn't warp out at the bottom. LOL

[Perry J]

Ask about the axel as they require frame modification to replace.
If it hasn't been replaced you should negotiate a lower price.
I did a completer restore on an 88 a couple of years ago.
After I replaced the axel I didn't need casters on the rear bumper.

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

A short awning can be attached in the same manner as on a Scamp, basically a real PITA.

Uhm, haven't done one on a Scamp. Is there a rail to hook on like a Boler has, or?

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

They have no more insulation than a Scamp, they are single shell hulls.

This one has no closet curbside, and no supports at the kitchen side. Are they just stiffer, or is this one missing something?

(this one is supposed to have new graphics, don't have photos of those)

Thanks, LP

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Perry J

Ask about the axel as they require frame modification to replace.
If it hasn't been replaced you should negotiate a lower price.
I did a completer restore on an 88 a couple of years ago.
After I replaced the axel I didn't need casters on the rear bumper.

Oh yikes. I did ASK about the frame. The owner has replaced or upgraded nearly everything, but said the axle was in good condition. How would I tell if there's a problem? How difficult is it to replace the axle?

I've already talked them down about $1500, I'm not sure I could take it much farther.

What kind of suspension do these have?
Thanks, LP

[Borrego Dave]

An awning rail for most molded trailers are a C track piece of aluminum riveted to the shell to handle a bag or tarp type awning. Not a big deal to add.

[Bob Miller]

Look at the pics. I posted in my link in Post #3. If the wheels are any further up in the wheel well you may be looking at an axle replacement.


If the closet was removed I'd be concerned, but if it appears it was factory built hat way, so be it. I have seen a couple of Lil Bigfoots that had custom interiors from the factory, including one with a permanent bed, so it may be original.


An bag awning or a tarp awning is fairly easy to install a rail for, but can be a real PITA to use. Roll-out awnings are a bit more complicated as the sides of the shell are curved rather than flat. Look for a pic of a roll out awning on a 13' Scamp


We sold ours for a bit north of $9k a few years back, but I think that the title on the link sez it all.

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Look at the pics. I posted in my link in Post #3. If the wheels are any further up in the wheel well you may be looking at an axle replacement.

I looked at this one of yours:

P6300138_zps606a07f3.jpg Photo by advocateone | Photobucket

I tried to select one of yours with the angle most similar to this one of theirs:

Fiberglass RV - Ellpea in CA's Album: Potential FGRV - Picture

I'm thinking it looks pretty good? I also understand that they are the 3rd owners, and the 2nd owners left it parked for quite a few years.

This is a photo of the kitchen area (with no visible supports):

Fiberglass RV - Ellpea in CA's Album: Potential FGRV - Picture

But it does look to me like this (and the non-closet curbside) are original (except new fridge), not altered to remove supports.

What do you think?

Thanks! LP

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

An awning rail for most molded trailers are a C track piece of aluminum riveted to the shell to handle a bag or tarp type awning. Not a big deal to add.

So, the C track is an easy add... where do we find the awnings, and about how much do they cost?

Thanks Dave!

LP

[Bob Miller]

although ours was loaded at the time, the pics of ours being towed show how far into the wheel well the tire goes. That said the one you are looking at looks about the same or better than ours unloaded.


I see what they did with the closet, but there is a peek at the front sofa and it looks like it makes into a 2 person dinette, if so that's a real plus as you can store clothing in bins under the bed in lieu of having the close and leave the bed as a full time bed.


Look up "Bag Awnings" They aren't all that easy to erect, you will usually need a step stool or better. I had one on the Sunrader pop-up shown in my Photobucket library and I had to have the pop-up down to be able to erect or take down the bag awning. I didn't really care for it at all.

[EllPea in CA]

Yes, it's set up to make into a 2-person dinette, and that's a feature I really wanted. I like the idea of having the bed made all the time. There's also a new, unused porta potty behind a cabinet door under the front right cabinet/seat area.

So it looks like there is no closet, but that's an extended seating area? That's the one thing I'm disappointed about -- would like to have the storage.

I'll start looking into bag awnings. Although I see how Norm did his, and that looked pretty sensible and easy to do!

We're going to see it this weekend. Can't wait...

Best, LP

[Bob Miller]

We use exact sized, 21 quart Sterilite Bins for under bed storage. There will be room for at least 4 under that bed. I would have happily traded the front dinette and the extra seat for the tiny closet.

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

We use exact sized, 21 quart Sterilite Bins for under bed storage. There will be room for at least 4 under that bed. I would have happily traded the front dinette and the extra seat for the tiny closet.

??? Really? Forego the front dinette for the closet?

Speaking of that closet... I've been thinking. You mention that getting a water heater in was a very tight squeeze. I've been wondering about building up a cabinet in that closet area, and actually moving the fridge over there, placing it up higher than it is in its present location. I don't like standing on my head to get the milk! Maybe a cabinet below and another one with shelving above it.

Then, ideally, some drawers could go into the old fridge space, and/or there would be room for a water heater. What do you think? Would it be difficult to get hookups for the fridge routed to the other side?

LP

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA

??? Really? Forego the front dinette for the closet?

Speaking of that closet... I've been thinking. You mention that getting a water heater in was a very tight squeeze. I've been wondering about building up a cabinet in that closet area, and actually moving the fridge over there, placing it up higher than it is in its present location. I don't like standing on my head to get the milk! Maybe a cabinet below and another one with shelving above it.
Then, ideally, some drawers could go into the old fridge space, and/or there would be room for a water heater. What do you think? Would it be difficult to get hookups for the fridge routed to the other side?LP

Couple things for you, relocating a heavy item towards the front is going to change your TW. That's why most refers are over or close to the axle. The higher heavy items are installed or stored changes the center of gravity also. Neither of these would make any difference in large RVs but in our molded rigs....probably. Had to chuckle with your comment of standing on your head to get the milk. My refer is at floor level and I don't have a problem grabbing another beer. Now maybe if I drank milk I would have a different opinion . Bob has it right, storage is king. Can't tell you how many times I've had people with large RVs look in mine and say "it's so small". My standard answer is I have everything you do except space.

[Bob Miller]

I may have been confusing. I would prefer the front dinette & the extra bedside seat/table and would be happy to give up the closet for that feature. In addition, without the closet wall against the bed, it's a lot easier to get in and out of the bed.


You can redesign almost any feature (within reason of course) but I would use the trailer for at least a season before making changes. In addition, while moving the refrigerator is "Possible", having it done by a shop would be prohibitively expensive.


I have had refrigerators in both the high and low locations, and the higher location is more convenient. But, in small FGRV's you can't move anything without having to change something else. It's all about trade offs. BTW: We put the water heater under the left dinette seat in three different 13' FGRV's, in what is otherwise difficult to use storage space.

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I may have been confusing. I would prefer the front dinette & the extra bedside seat/table and would be happy to give up the closet for that feature. In addition, without the closet wall against the bed, it's a lot easier to get in and out of the bed.

Yup, I was confused by that! I would consider the front dinette a real priority. As for rolling out of bed... that happens once or twice a day... but getting into the fridge happens a lot (especially if there's beer in there, Dave)!

I think camping in it for a year or so would be a good idea, but have to admit lying awake half the night mulling how something "almost" perfect could be perfected even more. I think I could draw up plans to have a cabinet shop build a VERY lightweight drawer system for the former fridge spot, another closet-type enclosure over the existing bench. I'm guessing storage in that bench is accessed from the top, so cabinet door would need adding to the front.

These are the biggies keeping me awake. The "smallies" are the ideas of adding a flip-up counter extension on either side of the galley. And making curtains. And creating an awning.

goodness. am never going to get any sleep!

keep your fingers crossed -- driving up to see it on Saturday!

LP

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Couple things for you, relocating a heavy item towards the front is going to change your TW. That's why most refers are over or close to the axle. The higher heavy items are installed or stored changes the center of gravity also. Neither of these would make any difference in large RVs but in our molded rigs....probably. Had to chuckle with your comment of standing on your head to get the milk. My refer is at floor level and I don't have a problem grabbing another beer. Now maybe if I drank milk I would have a different opinion . Bob has it right, storage is king. Can't tell you how many times I've had people with large RVs look in mine and say "it's so small". My standard answer is I have everything you do except space.

Dave, I was thinking about moving the refer over to the left of the door as you enter, over that spot where there is sometimes a closet, but in this one there's a bench. I thought that was practically over the axle, isn't it?

Haha with getting the beer. My guess is you enjoy the beer, and someone else stands on her head getting items in and out for breakfast, lunch, and dinner! Nice work if you can get it!


LP

[Bob Miller]

Not only will you need a cabinet for that refrigerator move, you will also need copper pipe for LP gas, 120 VAC for shore operation, 12DC if you want that working and the several vents that have to be cut in the outside shell for proper operation of the refrigerator. And then there are the existing vent's on the other side that you will have to block closed in some manner. Maybe a pull out shelf in the refrigerator will make the beer easier to get to....LOL

[EllPea in CA]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Not only will you need a cabinet for that refrigerator move, you will also need copper pipe for LP gas, 120 VAC for shore operation, 12DC if you want that working and the several vents that have to be cut in the outside shell for proper operation of the refrigerator. And then there are the existing vent's on the other side that you will have to block closed in some manner. Maybe a pull out shelf in the refrigerator will make the beer easier to get to....LOL

Or maybe I could just get one of those hats that hold two beer cans and a big tube for a straw?

I kind of thought we'd need to do something with pipes, tubes, vents, etc! But where does all of this run? Under the trailer? Through the cabinetry under back dinette? Quite willing to make some adjustments, but need some images to make lying awake planning more fruitful...

LP