Questions about the Bargman locks - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-06-2013, 08:14 AM   #1
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Name: Tom
Trailer: scamp
Michigan
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Questions about the Bargman locks

I'm a newbie to the forums- I see so much buying and trading for the flat, rectangular Bargman locks. My Scamp has just the old original latch mechanism... is the Bargman a replacement for that? Does it give you a better way to lock from the inside? Is this something I should be chasing down for my 1976?
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:56 AM   #2
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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No.
The stock Scamp latch/lock works just fine and is readily available if one needs to replace it. The activity you noticed about the Bargman locks is from those hunting down replacements for something is no longer produced. That lock fits into a hole cut into the door.
You don't have that hole cut in your door that needs to be filled with an exact match.
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:21 PM   #3
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Name: Tom
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Thanks, Roy-

That shows you how much I still have to learn- but even the classifieds have a lot of information to digest. Sometimes enough to really confuse the newbie.
I'm currently trying to solve the door hinge-latch-weatherstripping puzzle and get that door snug and straight and closed tight. I wondered if I needed yet more parts...

Thanks again for the tip. TK
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:17 AM   #4
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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Originally Posted by ThomKat View Post
Thanks, Roy-

That shows you how much I still have to learn- but even the classifieds have a lot of information to digest. Sometimes enough to really confuse the newbie.
I'm currently trying to solve the door hinge-latch-weatherstripping puzzle and get that door snug and straight and closed tight. I wondered if I needed yet more parts...

Thanks again for the tip. TK
Thom, The door is quite a mystery on all fibreglass trailers. What I have found work well, if the hinges on the door are still solid, is to take the door off from the trailer side, leaving the hinges on the door. Then fill the holes in the side of the trailer, where the door used to screw into, with fibreglass, and resin. When the resin gells, semi hard, cut off the excess, that should be sticking out of the holes, with a razor cutter.

Then tape the door on, where it looks good, then re-drill the holes, using the holes in the hinges to guide you. Size the holes to the new screws you bought to replace the rusty old ones. Stainless steel makes sense for this. Then, fill the holes, again, with glass and resin, but this time, while it is fresh, screw the new screws in, tight. This should cut any excess fibres. Back off the screws to clean off the excess fibres, then retighten.

Repeat on the door, but one screw at a time, and if the door screws are still solid, then you can get away with just new screws in the orignal holes, with some glass and resin, like the trailer side, but after you have already re-drill the holes.
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