Re-caulk all - yearly dealership?

[Jon in AZ]

Or buy a 5-10 year old molded fiberglass trailer expecting to have a few issues to deal with, but generally not rot-related structural issues. Monitor closely for moisture at first, then periodically. Deal with one thing at a time, rather than the whole trailer, as on-the-job training.

After reading KC's post I am questioning the wisdom of resealing my Scamp windows at 10 years as a preventative measure. I have heard different things about what Scamp uses to seal them at the factory. Does anyone know for sure what I'll find under the flanges of my 2008 under all the caulk?

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by offroad

So buy real real cheap and prepare to fix a whole bunch of issues. Dont trust anything. Just feeling subject to buyer beware on steroids. We are talking used going for $10k cheap and recently new $25k. And having a hidden mold problem that could cost $5000 to fix.

Makes me want to buy a $5000 utility trailer and take my chances with a build DIY.

My experience has been that you can find a used FGRV for considerably less than $10,000. The hidden mold problems can be major or minor. In the 40 year old FGRV campers that I have purchased, the hidden mold problems proved to be minor and the fixes costed less than $25.

On the other hand, I DID walk away from a FGRV that had serious water intrusion problems. I determined that the entire plywood floor would have to be replaced and therefore that camper would have to be gutted.

[Donna D.]

The last thing you ever want to do is blob more caulk over the top of old caulk. Talk about a huge mess when it's time to remove it all and do the job right. And for heavens sake, don't use silicone on the exterior of your trailer... ever.

Silicone... and it still leaked

[John in Michigan]

... or as Jon in AZ said, you can look at 5 to 10 year old FGRVs. Still need to check everything thoroughly and its still buyer beware, but far less likely to have water intrusion issues.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Or buy a 5-10 year old molded fiberglass trailer expecting to have a few issues to deal with, but generally not rot-related structural issues. Monitor closely for moisture at first, then periodically. Deal with one thing at a time, rather than the whole trailer, as on-the-job training.

After reading KC's post I am questioning the wisdom of resealing my Scamp windows at 10 years as a preventative measure. I have heard different things about what Scamp uses to seal them at the factory. Does anyone know for sure what I'll find under the flanges of my 2008 under all the caulk?

A 2008 date would have had Butyl rubber tape used to set the windows.
The issues with the old type were known for many years prior to that
If they are not leaking then you are in an enviable position of deciding to pull and reseal them if you wish to do so or just to leave them be. If you unsure and questioning your decision to leave as is then go rent or buy a moisture meter, do a water testing on the exterior and then look for leaks around the windows inside with modern science as your assistant

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by k corbin

A 2008 date would have had Butyl rubber tape used to set the windows.
The issues with the old type were known for many years prior to that
If they are not leaking then you are in an enviable position of deciding to pull and reseal them if you wish to do so or just to leave them be. If you question your decision go rent or buy a moisture meter, do water testing on the exterior and look for leaks with modern science as your assistant

I asked because I heard at least one report that they do not use butyl at all, new or old, but some other kind of sealant. Still wondering...

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

I asked because I heard at least one report that they do not use butyl at all, new or old, but some other kind of sealant. Still wondering...

Go to the horses mouth and get the answer from the horse instead of listening to a bunch of rumors. Scamp is still in business.

[ZachO]

I kinda think you need to give us more info. Civil Guys post basically confirmed your original post, IF you're looking to buy a "stick built", i.e. NOT molded fiberglass (what this site is all about) trailer. People keep asking...are these trailers you're looking at fiberglass or stick-built? What's your budget? What area of the county are you looking in? Are you willing to travel?

Fiberglass trailers definitely have water-leak problems. But not nearly the problems stick built trailers have. Clearly you're in an area of the country which is wet, and so you're finding a lot of moldy, wet trailers, and are getting frustrated. But you're getting good, solid info here from helpful people...

If you are concerned about moldy trailers, look to the west and southwest. If you aren't prepared for "buyer-beware" and in general a lot of maintenance, trailers aren't for you. No matter what, they're a lot of maintenance.

Buying and converting a utility trailer is a completely legitimate option and worth looking into.

My trailer is a 1991. No mold, very little rot (just some wallpaper peeling away from the edges of the windows). It's in great shape. Private party sale; under $10,000.

Hundreds of people every year buy used trailers through the private market and come out OK. Some people every year get burned. You just have to do the work to check it out. If every trailer you're looking at is moldy and gross, you're checking out the wrong kind of ads...

Good luck

[Raspy]

The stick built trailers are the ones with designed in leaks. Where the rubber roof meets the sides and especially where any penetrations are cut in for roof vents or other things.

From what I've seen, roof vents, etc are not "bedded" on those trailers, they are just installed dry and some sealant is applied over the top of the screws and flange. This guarantees a leak in a short time and unless you want to re-install the items correctly, you just scrape off the old goop and pour more on over the top again. This becomes regular maintenance and should be done nearly every year. While up there it's important to look for holes in the rubber roof and caul them too. These are caused by tree limbs, shoes or dropping a tool, etc.

Some folks resort to coating the whole roof with an elastomeric roof coating to hopefully add more protection and get any small leaks that can't be found. It also adds UV protection for the poured on caulking around the roof vents. Then that process must be repeated occasionally. What a mess.

I had a leak in my Ollie recently, somewhere around the window area. The fix wasn't too hard though and required no special tools. I simply closed the window and that fixed it. No more rain came in!

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Raspy

I had a leak in my Ollie recently, somewhere around the window area. The fix wasn't too hard though and required no special tools. I simply closed the window and that fixed it. No more rain came in!

This simply confirms my initial impression of Olivers......they are overpriced sieves!

Next time I'm buying a stickie!

[ZachO]

I don't know if you all keep the snow cleared off your roof in the winter (I did this last winter), but it always hurts me a little to see all the stick built trailers around town with flat roofs, and two feet of snow on top...Warm days, it all settles, freezes hard again, snows more...more and more weight on the roof...

Warm day, snow thaws and melts a little...water runs down into cracks and crevices...freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw....expand, contract, expand, contract...

Ouch. And these are trailers with AC and all kinds of other holes in the roof. Oh well.

I have heard of multiple people who did work to the ceiling of their fiberglass trailers and found multiple pinholes in the roof. I'm assuming I have some. So I'm sure we have some of those problems, but nothing like the seams in the roof of a stickie. I almost wonder if a yearly coat of wax on the fiberglass would take care of any pinhole leaks?

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by ZachO

I have heard of multiple people who did work to the ceiling of their fiberglass trailers and found multiple pinholes in the roof. ... I almost wonder if a yearly coat of wax on the fiberglass would take care of any pinhole leaks? Yesterday 02:15 PM

I wouldn't say pin hole leaks are a usual problem. And I certainly haven't heard or read about where many people have had issues. "Multiple" is defined as two or more. So.... maybe three in all the years I've been a member here and on the other forums.

Any intrusive holes need to repaired or caulked. I wouldn't plan on a product that washes off, like wax, to fix a hole no matter what size.

[ZachO]

Well I guess we don't need to debate whether strict, exact language is being used. Two is exactly the number I've heard of on this site. I did say multiple, as you point out. Not sure where "many" came from.

Both Bigfoot owners, both found when they pulled out their ceiling to fix the sagging roof. But I have to assume that if two people who opened up their ceiling found some small holes, probably there are at least a few more who have tiny holes and don't know it.

They only found them because, from inside the trailer with the ceiling out, they could see tiny little specks of light. Not sure how you'd ever know you have a tiny hole like that otherwise. So keeping a fresh coat of wax can't hurt...Especially for people out where it doesn't rain much, that might be adequate.

[offroad]

So watched this video where they are re caulking everything. As preventive measure. Seems to fly in the face of what others are saying, to just only fix what is leaking.

https://youtu.be/4bmQRB3ccjk

[Jon in AZ]

Didn't watch the video, but the title says "Seams and Roof." Molded fiberglass trailers don't have either. But for RVs that do, yes, seam caulking must be maintained regularly. For best practices on that, a general RV forum might be a better place to ask your question. We can get a little uppity here about the fact that our trailers don't have those kinds of seams to maintain!

However, you asked about "penetrations"- windows, vents, etc. if you search "reseal RV window" you'll find a number of videos showing how to remove the window, clean old sealant, and reinstall with new butyl. That is how it is done, molded fiberglass or otherwise. Here's one:

Reseal RV Window

Now it's possible that caulking around a window or vent might be deteriorating while the seal under the flange is still good (meaning no leaks). In that case you could replace just the caulk, not the seal. Unlike roof and seam caulking, it's cosmetic only, so do it whenever it bothers you.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by offroad

So watched this video where they are re caulking everything. As preventive measure. Seems to fly in the face of what others are saying, to just only fix what is leaking.

https://youtu.be/4bmQRB3ccjk

Oh Please! I can't believe that you watched that video made by some incompetent doofus who doesn't know squat about properly sealing RV components and you actually believe his work to be good? Seriously? Don't take the good information given to you here. Just believe that You Tube crap.

Don't rely on those inept yokels on YouTube, and their half baked crappy ways of doing things wrong. If you go ahead and do it his way, I'll guarantee you that you WILL be redoing it every year.

[Donna D.]

Let's just be nice to one another... okay?

Over the years, I've found people much more willing to accept information if it's what they want to believe. It's called "Confirmation Bias."

But when it comes to groups like this forum, expect to hear what works, what needs to be done and how to take care of all-molded-towable. All other build types have different maintenance issues.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by ZachO

well.

I have heard of multiple people who did work to the ceiling of their fiberglass trailers and found multiple pinholes in the roof. I'm assuming I have some. So I'm sure we have some of those problems, but nothing like the seams in the roof of a stickie. I almost wonder if a yearly coat of wax on the fiberglass would take care of any pinhole leaks?

I've got a pin hole in the lower front corner. Must have been a stone kicked up by the tow. The only time I notice it is when I'm cleaning out the storage area. I keep forgetting to fix it. No sign of water entry. I suspect you're right, filled with wax.

[ZachO]

Yep, the holes I'm talking about would be very very small. Probably would only leak on a flat-roofed trailer, more like a Bigfoot. Somewhere it can actually pool and sit.



Yeah that video shows a Lance slide-in camper. Which means not molded fiberglass.

Honestly man we're trying to help, but you're not communicating very well. If you're not looking at molded fiberglass trailers, you're speaking to the wrong crowd and we're going to contradict a lot of what you find elsewhere online. Because it doesn't relate to the kind of trailers this site is all about. Our trailers don't have "roof seams".

Are you or are you not looking at molded fiberglass trailers? So far everything you've posted points to: no. If that's an incorrect assumption, it will be very easy to let us know. Just tell us what kind of trailers you've been looking at. Other than moldy.

[TheWanderers]

We've only just finished remodeling our Scamp and have removed all caulk that we found and replaced every seal with butyl. All windows resealed, almost all rivets drilled and replaced with stainless steel nylock bolt/nut combo with butyl, etc.

The caulk just didn't seem to hold up well. We'll be watching the butyl as the years pass to see what needs replacing and I expect it to need repair in a few years. Time will tell..