Rear window Replacement

[JHayter]

We are about to replace our rear window, against our will. We have called every glass shop in town and nobody will touch the RV (Scamp) Window. I have no idea why. So here we go on our own. We have the new seal, but I need the lock strip tool. Anyone know where I can find one without having to take the time to order it? I have watched a video on youtube by Kevin Johnston on replacing window, so I feel we might be able to do it, but only time will tell. Any advise would be WELL received!

[mary and bob]

Do you mean a tool like the Lisle 47000 that is sold by Amazon? I bought one from my local auto parts store. They got it over night

[Ian G.]

My only sdvice is DO NOT install the window molding backwards, the lockstrip has to be on the outside. If not there is a good chance the window will leak (because of the molding lip design) and I have been contacted and seen a number of front windows that blew into the trailer while being towed with the molding installed wrong because the molding is not designed to support the window with the pressure exerted against the spline (the molding flexes more when pushed against the spline and will fail at a lower force)

Installing the window is not difficult, use lots of soapy water and lots of patience. I am editing a video on installing front and rear windows but it is not quite finished yet.

[mary and bob]

[QUOTE=Ian G.;512374]My only sdvice is DO NOT install the window molding backwards, the lockstrip has to be on the outside. If not there is a good chance the window will leak (because of the molding lip design)

Interesting info, as the Uhaul campers had the side windows installed with a rubber weatherstrip and the lock strip is on the inside. The reason being there is a tab to pull out the lock strip and then the window can be pushed out to be an emergency exit. Uhaul side windows are notorious leakers, wonder if this has something to do with that problem. I replaced one of my side windows, lock strip on inside, it doesn't leak. Another Uhaul owner had a glass shop install their windows and they did it with the lock strip on the outside. Could the outside lock strip method be the solution to the leaking issue.

[Perry J]

I have replaced 3 front and rear windows without the tool for installing the lock strip.


It's easy if you use a little rubber lubricant or soapy water and a large broad bit screw driver for pushing the lock strip into the rubber gasket.


Good luck,
John

[Ian G.]

[QUOTE=mary and bob;512385]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

My only sdvice is DO NOT install the window molding backwards, the lockstrip has to be on the outside. If not there is a good chance the window will leak (because of the molding lip design)

Interesting info, as the Uhaul campers had the side windows installed with a rubber weatherstrip and the lock strip is on the inside. The reason being there is a tab to pull out the lock strip and then the window can be pushed out to be an emergency exit. Uhaul side windows are notorious leakers, wonder if this has something to do with that problem. I replaced one of my side windows, lock strip on inside, it doesn't leak. Another Uhaul owner had a glass shop install their windows and they did it with the lock strip on the outside. Could the outside lock strip method be the solution to the leaking issue.

I can understand why Uhaul does that, it becomes a very inexpensive way to add an emergency escape, but I also think that could be the cause of the leaks.
Each molding is made differently but in the image below you can see a sealing bead on the glass side. This type of bead is on the glass side because the glass has to move in the seal with thermal expansion/contraction. The rib places a higher pressure at that smaller area resulting in a better seal. It would be interesting to see if installing the molding correctly would solve your leak.

BTW I have also seen a number of installations where the lockstrip is installed backwards, the rounded part into the groove with the pointed side facing out. It is easier to install this direction but as you can see it would not fully spread the molding resulting in a poor seal and potential leaks

[mary and bob]

Thanks Ian, I see your reasoning. On the Uhauls the window frame is what contacts the weatherstrip, not the glass. Possibly part of the problem could be that both the trailer wall and the window frame measure 3/16" thick and weatherstrip with those measurements in the groove is not available. I did find 3/16 in one groove and 1/4" in the other so used that and my window does not leak. An old thread here recommended a weatherstrip that had both grooves 1/4", a statement I believe is incorrect. Original Uhaul weatherstrip was 3/16 - 1/4", and there were leakage problems when the trailers were in rental service.

[Ian G.]

Bob that sounds like you have everything right.
It is very difficult to find any molding with the 3/16" dimension, but you did exactly what I have found which is to find a molding with dimensions that compensate for the material thickness used on our trailers. That is why the molding I recommend is designed for 1/16" body (when the fiberglass is 1/8" thick) but the molding is designed for 1/4" glass the molding is compliant and provides a very good seal on both sides.