refrigerator - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-22-2003, 07:11 PM   #15
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Silly question

Okay.....I know that all of you are going to jump on me quicker that I can cry uncle....but I just gotta ask this. Every once in a while, I get this bottle neck in my brain when there's so much info coming in it gets jammed up and can't get through to my logic.

Most people say that a three-way fridge is better. Got that. Gas...now that one goes without saying. It's easy to understand. Here's my dilemma. In order to use the fridge on AC, I need to be hooked up to shore power. Got that. Piece of cake. Okay....here's where I'm confused. IF I'm hooked up to shore power and I have a converter and my battery is getting recharged, why couldn't I run it off of DC while plugged into shore power just like my lights? I know that my fridge draws so much power that it will drain the battery IF I'm not plugged in, but if I am....why is that different than running it off AC?

Somehow, it almost seems like a redundancy. I know that I'm missing something here, but not quite sure what it is.

Thanks.
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Old 03-22-2003, 07:14 PM   #16
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Hmmm... I'm not sure I get that joke. I've been polishing the trailer today, I think it's lowered my IQ. I'd seen that conversion page at norcold. It's strange that they consider so many models interchangeable. The dometic we bought is considered the replacement for the one that came with the trailer. It sticks out about 4 inches from the cabinet. when we first saw it we thought this is no good. I think now, it'll have to do. We are learning as we go. I'm sorry we threw out the original fridge maybe we could have gotten it rebuilt? No, I'm not really sorry. It was in terrible condition. It was the right size tho'. Argh!
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Old 03-23-2003, 12:07 PM   #17
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how to run fridge

From what I can see how you run your fridge is all a matter of efficiencies.

Gas - fridge runs best because it heats the mix chamber the best.

AC- the next best because it doesn't draw off your batteries and the heat strip is usually a bit bigger than the dc one.

DC draws from your batterie(s) or your inverter.

It may just be because I have an older model, But I find AC and DC take a lot longer to cool down the fridge initially, compared to propane
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Old 03-23-2003, 11:31 PM   #18
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Hi Joe
I agree with your statment.I much prefere Propane.:wave
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Old 03-24-2003, 12:28 AM   #19
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Coolmatic

I believe the Coolmatic is manufactured by Waeco. You can do a search on Waeco, which will come up with the US distributor (something-Barbour, I recall). The Waeco fridges are used in the new Trilliums Outback's manufactured in Calgary, Alberta. Joe Thoen of Outback is also the Canadian distributor of Waeco.

They are compressor driven, like a household unit. No propane, so perhaps safer, but battery draw.

Hope this helps


Rick
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Old 03-24-2003, 10:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Suz

* * * * * * IF I'm hooked up to shore power and I have a converter and my battery is getting recharged, why couldn't I run it off of DC while plugged into shore power just like my lights? *I know that my fridge draws so much power that it will drain the battery IF I'm not plugged in, but if I am....why is that different than running it off AC?
Suz, you may remember me telling you that our older Casita had a 2-way powered refrigerator (DC and GAS) which is unusual to see in today's market. Several times we camped with electric hookup and ran it on DC (not knowing any better, plus the folks we bought from never ran it on propane - they didn't use any of the propane systems in the trailer, having switched the water heater out for an electric, always cooked outdoors on their Coleman portable stove, etc.).

Anyway, when we ran the refrigerator on DC like that, the converter/charger ran almost constantly. Nice ambient noise to drown out the sounds from the neighboring campsites, but surely not good for the converter to run so long...
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Old 03-24-2003, 01:01 PM   #21
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another reason for 12v

I'm guessing the most compelling reason for 12v is to be able to run the fridge while you're towing on a long trip.

The ice container or frozen orange juice tricks may not be enough on an all day drive or several days in a row. And some of us are nervous about driving with the propane on.

Caution: if your 12v feed from the tow vehicle is wired "always hot" you could run down the vehicle battery in a hurry when you're stopped.
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Old 03-24-2003, 02:00 PM   #22
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fridge/portable electric coolers

Our portable cooler is a Coleman 12vdc/120vac. About the same specs as the others listed previously. About 4 amps/hr.

The difference in these coolers is that with no compressor they only work to lower the inside temperature to 30-40 degrees BELOW the ambient temperature (I forget what the process is called). So on a 100+ day it's not going to cool as much as you'd like it to. Also, as they expell heat, it'll be injested thru the intake unless vented to outside air. That heat also heats up the inside of your trailer/car! :E :E

At 4amps/hr, a 50 watt solar panel will almost keep up with it.......for the 5 hours of good daylight (the figure most solar people use) per 24 hour period. So the other 19 hrs its draining your battery. :o and it'll do it overnite, especially if you've been driving late at night with the car lights on. Been there, jumper cables and friendly neighbor to the rescue.

It's handy, but doesn't replace a good 3 way fridge for all round use.
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Old 03-24-2003, 02:15 PM   #23
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Refrigerator

Quote:
Orginally posted by Mary F... when we ran the refrigerator on DC like that, the converter/charger ran almost constantly. *Nice ambient noise to drown out the sounds from the neighboring campsites, but surely not good for the converter to run so long...
Thanks, Mary. That makes sense. It pretty much just over stresses the converter, right? Since it pulls 8 amps I knew not to run it off the battery when not hooked up to shore power or tow vehicle (in motion); now I understand why you wouldn't do it if you are connected to shore power. Thanks.

About traveling with it on DC. Seems to me that is the best way. Just make sure you take a second and flip it to off when you stop the vehicle. Although my tow vehicle has a time delayed shut off, I wouldn't want to take any chances with a possible weak battery.

In the beginning, I thought the wire that the brake controller was wired into stayed hot all the time, but later discovered that it is only for a little while. Not sure why (never bothered to ask), but I wonder if it isn't a safety feature. I think I heard that some install something that will kill the connection if the engine is turned off. If that is just the DC power and has nothing to do with the electric brakes, then it's okay. But, if it shuts off all power, then, personally, I want to make sure that the trailer has brakes as long as it is rolling...but that's just me.
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:50 PM   #24
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I think one of the reasons manufacturers indicate different refrigerators are interchangable , yet have different depths is they are thinking of larger stickbuilt rigs. The installation space in an egg is restricted front to back as well as top and side directions. I pulled the Fridge in my 24 ft. Nomad, and I estimate I could easily add 4 to 6 inches to the depth and still clear the rear wall. You might consider making a cardboard model of the fridge and try placeing it and see what you get for clearance plus can you easily walk past it sticking out into the aisle. Hitting your head on the fridge in the middle of the night is no fun.
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Old 04-03-2003, 03:42 PM   #25
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If I'm not mistaken, Norcold is owned by Dometic, so I question if their units are truly dimensionally different, in spite of what sales literature may say.
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Old 04-07-2003, 04:00 PM   #26
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What kind of trailer?

Maggie, what are you trying to put this fridge in, what kind of trailer? We managed to fit a Norcold 323 into out 77 Scamp 16, even though the given dimensions showed it wouldn't fit, it did.
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Old 04-07-2003, 05:04 PM   #27
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We were going to put it in a 1975 trillium. We decided we could live with it sticking out 4 inches from the cabinet. Since we ordered it from camping world we took it to them to have it installed. We drove three hours to get to our 11:00 am appointment. They didn't look at it till 2:00 pm. They estimated it would cost over $700.00 to install it. I could make this a very long story...maybe some other time. We told them we would like to return the fridge and left. We wanted improvements done and would have spent the money but the guy they put working on it kept saying things like," it can't be done, I can't do that, this isn't my job," etc. The manager there was nice but the work is only as good as the guy doing it. So we decided to try our luck elsewhere. I think we may have been overly ambitious with starting with the fridge anyway. We need to get the new style propane tank and battery shelf on the tongue and battery and converter. Right now I'm back to considering a coolmatic.
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Old 04-07-2003, 08:23 PM   #28
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[quote]Orginally posted by Maggie O.

I'm sorry we threw out the original fridge maybe we could have gotten it rebuilt? [quote]

Several years back I took out our leaking frig from our 28' trailer and took it over to Elkhart, Ind.
I can't remember the shop, but there is only one in Elkhart that rebuilds these things. He trained some people in California to do it also. They all rust out at pretty much the same point (where the water gathers) and the stinky ammonia stuff leaks out. As I remember it was pretty reasonable in cost too as opposed to a new one.
The inside of the shop reaked of ammonia, my eyes watered the minute we walked in. There are stacks of parts everywhere.
I'm sorry I can't find his number or name. But if you call around Elkhart I'm sure you'll find him.
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