Refurbish

[creedcw]

I have a scamp I got from my grandparents it is aboutr 30+ years old anyone know if scamp or someone that might refurbish it?

[Doug Mager]

You don't indicate your age, but I'm wonderin IF you couldn't 'do' most of the work yourself?? Its all really very thereputic (LOL)???

[Donna D.]

What do you mean by "refurbish"? What does it need? A good cleaning? If you're concerned about the propane/electrical/plumbing systems, call an RV supply/dealer and see if they do repairs and checks, if they don't they'll be able to tell you who can. Nearly everything else you can do yourself with hand tools and the knowledge of members on this forum.

Have you ever camped? As long as it's safe to go down the road and has no leaks when it rains, you can consider it a hard-sided tent until you have it absolutely perfect for you.

BTW: you're very lucky to have grandparents to give you a molded lightweight fiberglass trailer!

Ask one question per topic and you'd be surprised the amount of help you will receive.

[creedcw]

You don't indicate your age, but I'm wonderin IF you couldn't 'do' most of the work yourself?? Its all really very thereputic (LOL)???

I am having a problem with the roof vent leaking I am going to oder the roof vent from scamp I think it just has to do with the age of the trailer. I would like to use bolts instead of pop rivers where as some of the poprivet holes have gotten bigger any sugestions as what to use and what to avoid so I get a good seal

[Coach George Jessup]

While you're waiting for answers, you might use the search feature. There are many threads on sealing various things in the egg trailers. There are many threads on replacing the pop rivets as well.

Just search around, get familure with the search engine and/or use google advance to search this site.

[Ron Walker]

My 82 Scamp was leaking from the outside of the vent base where it is riveted onto the roof.
I solved the problem for now by calking the outside with black syllicone calking. Some say you should use butyl rubber instead of syllicone, but the syllicone has been holding up so far. If your seal is really bad, you might have to remove the hatch and put a new seal under it. You would need to drill out all of the outside rivets. Use aluminum rivets, as thay won't rust out. Rivets do wear lose in time and have to be replaced to stop leaks. If your hatch cover is not cracked you should not have to replace it. To find the right size of rivets, take a drill bit the size of the hole to a hardware store. You also need to know the length of the rivets you need. I hope this helps.

[james kent]

Oh! Good heavens!
Ron you didn't use the "S" word, did you???
That's one word that has no place in the vocabulary of an egg owner.
It's horrible stuff to get rid of. Better to use that grey stuff called duct seal or affectionally called 'elephant dung' at work because we used to get it in a 1 1/2' roll about 6" long. Now it comes on a paper tape and is widly used in the RV industry to seal between mating surface to keep out water.

[Donna D.]

Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing, Split topic
Good topic!

[Pete Dumbleton]

Scamp uses 100% silicone on the roof -- It may be hard to clean off on the sides, but who really cares about the roof?

Given the age and the fact that there is a leak, consider just getting an entire new hatch from Scamp and installing it. I would use the butyl tape between the hatch flanges and roof, but then put plenty of silicone on the edges and each fastener.