Reluctant 1980 Boler Reno - Fiberglass RV



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Old 04-04-2019, 09:27 PM   #1
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
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Reluctant 1980 Boler Reno

We inherited a beautiful 17 foot Boler (1980) that was in passable condition last year but after a rainy winter at a storage facility we decided if we are going to update the trailer, we are going to do it right. There was enough water damage to convince us to tear out the insulation and see what was happening. And once we started that, we could tell the cabinets needed re-building, too. We are hoping the windows dont need to be replaced. Will post progress here. Any advice and encouragement is appreciated!
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Old 04-05-2019, 07:16 AM   #2
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
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Great, a big boler (re)build.

Look forward to seeing your work updating it. Be sure to check the frame and ply floor too.
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Old 04-05-2019, 06:53 PM   #3
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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Worth it.

It will be a lot of work but totally worth it in the end. Plus you can now build a bed size that is usable. I have the '77 version and the width of the bed is less than a twin. I like to say it promotes cuddling, but certainly not a good nights sleep. And we even spent the money to have a custom mattress made to fit the curve.
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:52 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
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We recently finished our reno. We are in Maple Ridge if you're interested in a look.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:12 PM   #5
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
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Hey all,

Just a quick update on the 1700 resto: pretty much have all the cabinets out and appliances removed except the shower stall and hot water heater, both of which I think we’ll just leave in while we replace the vinyl flooring and insulation. We ended up ordering neugasoft (sp??) vinyl with foam backing from JTs Outdoor Fabric in Ontario. Hopefully it works out although I know it can be a pain in the butt to put up. Anyway, once we get it all cleaned up, flooring and insulation in, we’ll probably start camping in it again. One question: has anyone ever successfully removed the Dometic fridge from their Boler? As in, physically how do you get it out? It won’t fit through the door and I suspect they must have put it in before placing the top of the egg on the bottom half.....
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:13 PM   #6
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
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Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler View Post
Hey all,

Just a quick update on the 1700 resto: pretty much have all the cabinets out and appliances removed except the shower stall and hot water heater, both of which I think well just leave in while we replace the vinyl flooring and insulation. We ended up ordering neugasoft (sp??) vinyl with foam backing from JTs Outdoor Fabric in Ontario. Hopefully it works out although I know it can be a pain in the butt to put up. Anyway, once we get it all cleaned up, flooring and insulation in, well probably start camping in it again. One question: has anyone ever successfully removed the Dometic fridge from their Boler? As in, physically how do you get it out? It wont fit through the door and I suspect they must have put it in before placing the top of the egg on the bottom half.....
Here is a photo through the stern window.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:20 PM   #7
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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The venting behind the fridge is pretty big but not sure it's big enough to fit the entire fridge?

Also, while you have all that out, I would have a good look at you black tank to see how good of shape it's in. Wouldn't be a better time than now to replace it.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:35 PM   #8
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
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The venting behind the fridge is pretty big but not sure it's big enough to fit the entire fridge?

Also, while you have all that out, I would have a good look at you black tank to see how good of shape it's in. Wouldn't be a better time than now to replace it.
Thanks Tim,

Yeah the vent behind the fridge is about 2x2 so not big enough unfortunately. Its quite the puzzle! Probably just strap the fridge in there somehow if were going to tow the trailer anywhere. Do t want it to bounce through the wall haha!

Good thought on the black tank. Ive been avoiding checking it out for obvious reasons.

One other question: there are little angle iron brackets riveted through the shell which serve as mounts for the ceiling-hung cabinets. Weve found these are a major source of leaks/condensation and Id like to fill the river holes. Any thoughts from people on using something like PL Premium to glue the angle iron on the inside of the shell rather than having a rivet or screw go through? Dont believe glue as good as PL Premium existed in 1980. Starting to think it might be a better solution to many of the screws and rivets in the shells of these old trailers. Priority 1 is making them leak-proof otherwise all other work will be undone.
Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:39 PM   #9
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
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Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler View Post
Thanks Tim,

Yeah the vent behind the fridge is about 2x2 so not big enough unfortunately. Its quite the puzzle! Probably just strap the fridge in there somehow if were going to tow the trailer anywhere. Do t want it to bounce through the wall haha!

Good thought on the black tank. Ive been avoiding checking it out for obvious reasons.

One other question: there are little angle iron brackets riveted through the shell which serve as mounts for the ceiling-hung cabinets. Weve found these are a major source of leaks/condensation and Id like to fill the river holes. Any thoughts from people on using something like PL Premium to glue the angle iron on the inside of the shell rather than having a rivet or screw go through? Dont believe glue as good as PL Premium existed in 1980. Starting to think it might be a better solution to many of the screws and rivets in the shells of these old trailers. Priority 1 is making them leak-proof otherwise all other work will be undone.
Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated!
I replace a bunch of the rivets on mine with stainless nuts and bolts and then a washer that had a rubber gasket on it. Seemed to water proof it quite well. The only other thing I could think of doing is fiberglassing in a a block of wood (or something similar) and then screwing into that to hold things up. that way there would be no intrusion through the hull.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:40 PM   #10
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
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Angle iron brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler View Post
little angle iron brackets riveted through
Here are a couple photos.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:43 PM   #11
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
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Good idea. Love stainless steel. So far I’ve managed to own a sailboat and this Boler and take(taking) them both through some pretty major restorations without ever leaning how to properly lay fibreglass. Maybe the time is now haha. I believe it is an art form like any other and those who are good at it should be praised.
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Old 04-27-2019, 03:35 PM   #12
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
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Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler View Post
Good idea. Love stainless steel. So far Ive managed to own a sailboat and this Boler and take(taking) them both through some pretty major restorations without ever leaning how to properly lay fibreglass. Maybe the time is now haha. I believe it is an art form like any other and those who are good at it should be praised.
Just need to go to the school of YouTube and become an expert!
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Old 04-27-2019, 04:09 PM   #13
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Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
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One other thing for sealing the rivets would be to get closed end rivets. They can't leak through the tube because they're sealed off unlike a normal rivet which is a tube.
I do like the idea of fiberglassing blocking to the roof and screwing the cabinets to the blocking. If i were to do it again, I would use pressure treated plywood and not normal plywood as my blocking.
YouTube Boatworks Today. This is a great resource if you want to learn to fiberglass.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:30 PM   #14
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
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Thanks Stefan,

Good idea to fibreglass blocks and screw to those instead. Any metal can leave potential to form condensation so the less there is the better IMO.
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