Removing silicone! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-22-2008, 07:06 PM   #15
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No it's fine Raya, I wasn't talk to anyone in particular.
Thanks for clarifying It is nice when all reference on a topic is gathered together in one thread, but it would probably stifle the natural flow of threads and boards to really have it that way.

R.
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:08 AM   #16
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So I bought a boler and the previous owner must have emptied a dozen tubes of silicone in various ackard places. He was using it on the soggy west coast. Any advice about removing it? tools? solvents?

There's silicone all around the top surface of the middle seam. Anyone actually found this to be useful?
Also over bolts he sent through the hull (the horror) and over rivets holes.

Thanks for any advice.

Crystal
Crystal -

did you buy the Boler from "Bruno"??

We looked at that one too...
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Old 11-14-2008, 12:23 PM   #17
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Hmmm! I see this topic has reared it ugly head again One of the best threads was as Donna mentioned, Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing.
I have not changed my option in regards to the use of Silicone. To bad that thread didn't continue.

However, one comment I will make, having monkeyed around with boats, street rods, motorcycles, quads, trailers etc. for at least 50 years, one of the best things I have found after trying numerous chemicals for removing silicone residue, adhesive from old decals. tar, oil etc. (Also Poly Butyl tape residue, Methyl Hydrate works well too) is White Gas (Naptha).

Now before everyone jumps off their chairs and says thats is too dangerous to work with, baloney! Common sense prevails at all times. You work with it and any other chemicals out side and have no smoking or electrical things running in the area.

If any one has ever worked with Acetone, Lacquer thinners, Methyl Hydrate, and many of the spray products that have been mentioned just do a test spray on an open flame. Some them will really surprise you how flammable they are.
The nice thing about Naptha is it doesn't leave any residue.

If you are going to do any painting after, it is always advisable to use product called "Fish eye Remover" available from any auto paint supplier before painting. There is also a product you can add to the paint if you are spraying.
You never know if someone has used 'Armor All' around your trailer. The least little spec of silicone can ruin a paint job. Many people use 'Armor All' on their tires. the drift from that will cause problems.

And as Donna says one of the safest scrappers to use is a auto ice scrapper. The acrylic plastic will NOT mark the gel coat on fiberglass. I use scraps of Plexiglas strips left over from projects.
The other important ingredient, "Elbow grease"

And Raya, you hit it right one the nose. Good comments. The old tape trick I learned years ago working on custom cars.
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:10 PM   #18
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I have been using WD40 to remove silicone or whatever sealant was used. And Doug M. in most cases the paint underneath has stayed, but in a few places (where the paint didn't stick well because it was dirty underneath) the paint lifted. I also scrape with any plactic edged thing i can get my hands on.

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Old 11-14-2008, 01:30 PM   #19
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Con,

I've got a couple of questions for you:

1) Is the "White gas/Naptha" that you recommend the same as the "white gas" that you'd use in a Coleman type camping stove? I think I have some of that around still.

2) I never use Armorall, but have they snuck silcone into that? :shudder:

Thanks,

Raya
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Old 11-14-2008, 03:22 PM   #20
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Yes on the gas. It runs about $20 a gal. but so does Lacquer thinners and Acetone. A gallon will last a long though. I found ordinary gas will work well to but seems to leave a bit of a film.
And Yes, Armor All has some silicone in it and as far as I know so does WD40. Read the label on WD40 and it says it lubricates and protects against rust, etc,etc. It tells you to keep away from flames, don't get it on your clothes or skin or breath the fumes. Nice stuff isn't????
When I read the label on both products they don't tell you what chemicals that are in them, just great.
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Old 11-14-2008, 04:04 PM   #21
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Hmm, I got curious and decided to look up the MSDS on Armorall and WD-40.

Armorall says it has 30% - 40% "Silicone Emulsion." Yikes! Keep that away from MY trailer and vehicles .

Here's a link to the Armorall MSDS (by the way, there were about 40 MSDS listed for the various Armorall products; this one is for the basic protectant):

http://tinyurl.com/6dwtob

As for WD-40, I can't tell for sure. No silicone is listed, but there are unspecified "non-hazardous ingredients." Still, since silicone is listed on the Armorall MSDS, I wonder if that means it's classified as hazardous, and would therefore indicate that if it isn't specifically mentioned as an ingredient in WD-40 it isn't there.

Here's a link to the WD-40 MSDS:

http://tinyurl.com/3nlvta

Boy, sneaky with the silicone, aren't they...

Raya
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Old 11-14-2008, 04:19 PM   #22
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I found a product at Wally, made IIRC by 3M, that said it was Silicon Remover and it worked for me -- I haven't run across it since. Here're the Google results:

http://www.tapecase.com/p.170.41/3m-adhesi...er-3m-6040.aspx

The MSDS sez it is Citrus Extract and Propane!

http://wwhardware.com/media/products...49048_MDSS.txt



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Old 11-15-2008, 08:38 AM   #23
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I would like to try that 3M product does anybody know where to buy it in Canada?

Silicone emulsion is the stuff chev dealers sell to put on your weatherstripping around the doors to make them swell up and look new, I don't think its anything dangerous heres the MSDS

http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/msds/si...ood-Grade35.pdf
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Old 07-19-2009, 10:38 PM   #24
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I'm restoring my scamp now. I don't know why they used SO MUCH caulk..??
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:54 AM   #25
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I like to use butyl "tape" for this, but -- depending on what material your item is made of -- there are other options (such as polyurethane caulk). I always use a quality product even if it costs a bit more, because, like painting, there's much more work in the prep and doing the job than there is cost in the sealant.

Raya
Can you recommend a good polyurethane that is not black, brown, or gray? I need to re-seal a roof to side seam on another trailer. It's the beige like the trillium.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:23 AM   #26
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Sika and 3M are both good brands. They also both make white, although it can yellow when exposed to sunlight over the long term.

Sika's 291 is one polyurethane; 3M's 4200 is one of theirs. These both fall into the "semi-permanent" category. In other words, they are very strong, but will come off without dynamite when you need to re-do them

3M now makes "4000," of which the white is not supposed to yellow, but I have not used it (or heard enough from others) to be able to make a recommendation. It's not a polyurethane, but has similar properties from what I can tell.

You could also potentially consider a polysulfide - is this metal to metal you are sealing... or?

Raya



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Old 07-20-2009, 05:45 PM   #27
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Mainly fiberglass and aluminum, with some plastic end caps. It is an 1989 30' Award travel trailer. Aluminum roof and fiberglass side walls and nose cone.

I couldn't find the Polyurethane 300 (temporarily can't recall the brand) I was looking for that was mentioned on another site. Got some "PL Polyurethane Premium Construction" adhesive. Except for the color, yellowish brown (looks like newborn baby poop), it looks pretty sturdy. Some travel and time will tell the story.

Previous owner had made liberal use of silicone to seal the roof to side wall seam and everything else on the exterior.
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:26 AM   #28
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So I bought a boler and the previous owner must have emptied a dozen tubes of silicone in various ackard places. He was using it on the soggy west coast. Any advice about removing it? tools? solvents?

There's silicone all around the top surface of the middle seam. Anyone actually found this to be useful?
Also over bolts he sent through the hull (the horror) and over rivets holes.

Thanks for any advice.

Crystal
Hi Crystal -
I can't really hold a candle to the wealth of knowledge offered here already. However, I'm in the same boat (or trailer, rather) as you, and I'm currently in the process of removing the caked-on silicon from the last window on my 'new-to-me' trailer.

I found the comments RE the acrylic scraper and white gas to work the best. There were no plastic 'razors' to be found here locally, but tonight I found an even more effective approach (after a week of scraping, scrubbing, dousing with gas etc.)

I had some contractor solvent lying around (http://www.homehardware.ca/Products/index/...nd_cntrctr_12oz). This stuff works very well at penetrating the silicon.

I first removed the bulk of it with a painter's tool called a '5-in-1'. It's not razor-sharp, but has a good edge on it, that, when used carefully, will remove the beads of caulk quite well. I've found this tool to be the most effective. I haven't scratched the gel coat once and the PO of my trailer must have gotten tips from your PO b/c everything that could be caulked on the trailer was.

Anyway - that's my 2 cents. I'm by no means a pro - just offering what's worked for me. If I had to do it all again, these are the two tools I'd use. If you're not sure what a 5-in-1 is, here's a link:

http://www.homehardware.ca/Products/index/...aper_putty_5in1

Oh - 1) scrape the bulk of the bead off with the 5-in-1, then spray with solvent, wipe with rag - I found two applications removed all residue, and then I hit it with methyl hydrate on a rag to remove any residue from the solvent.

Mike
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