renewing the outer surface of my scamp - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-19-2015, 05:31 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: jon
Trailer: Scamp 13
Washington
Posts: 28
renewing the outer surface of my scamp

hi fiberglass rv'ers,
some areas of my gel coat are wearing thin and i am interested in improving the longevity of the surface. i talked to some boat builders and they indicate that spraying/brushing large surfaces in gel coat are extremely work intensive. they advised refinishing with a high quality urethane paint. that is what they are doing to gel coat boats that wear down. i would be interested in your own experiences with surface maintenance i.e. large areas. i have used patch and gel coat on smaller areas but the ones i'm talking about are a lot larger.
thanks for any advice,
jondsw
sequim wa
__________________

__________________
jondsw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 01:52 AM   #2
Member
 
Karen L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Karen L.
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 ft (My Burrito!)
Washington
Posts: 67
Hi Jon... My 82 13 ft Burro is pretty oxidized, so I'm considering having it repainted.. One place is talking about sanding, painting, Gel-coat & 2 clear coat layers! Other place is talking Fleet paint as used on Semi-trucks which have fiberglass hoods & fenders! I'm unsure which way to go! Both are convinced their way is the way to go!! Anybody have an opinion??
__________________

__________________
Karen L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 12:16 PM   #3
Member
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: Burro
Massachusetts
Posts: 76
Hi Karen,

If you only have the flat, dusty oxidation surface which all of our old FG campers eventually achieve, all you need to do is wax the hell out of it and you will get a nice hard shiny surface. Search this forum and you will find several long threads about waxing the FG trailers with such products as "Red Max Pro", "PolyGlow" and others.

We did this to our old Burro. We fixed a few holes and gouges with bondo, spray painted it with a closely matching can of auto spray paint then feather sanded it and put on 4 coats of Red Max Pro and it is simply amazing. You need to know where to look to find the fixed areas and the finish looks like a much newer trailer, shiny and dirt resistant.

Others will attest to this if you search the forum you will find many testimonials. RMP has been discontinued but continues on by another name, which I now cannot remember but other will tell us what this is.

A full repaint job is unnessary unless you are doing a show quality full restoration and want it to be perfect. If you just want a clean, shiny camper to actually use, I would recommend you to go with the wax job.

Rick
__________________
rick.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 07:33 PM   #4
Member
 
Karen L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Karen L.
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 ft (My Burrito!)
Washington
Posts: 67
Thank you Rick!! I've been so uncertain about which way to go!! !1) Gel coat & 2 coats of clear coat for $1500.00 2) Fleet paint with 1 coat of clear coat for $1000.00 for Artistic Automotive 3) Paint by car restorer, no clear coat but graphic Burro Logos for $1500... On my way home, I stopped @ a Graphic design store, the 2 Burro logos, on for each side = $105.00, far less than I thought it would be!! With your suggestion to wax, sounds like something I could do & ave HUNDREDS!! I know someone said the Red Max Pro is @Lowe's.. Some aid it yellows, but you don't concerned about that!! What do you mean "feather sanding?? Lightly where it might be needed for paint runs, etc?? Imagine the PRIDE I'd feel doing Burrito MYSELF!! LOVE that little guy & have had him since 89 or 90! I could spend the $$ I save for repairing his upholestry!!!! Did you tape off windows, etc??? Thanks for the step by step post!!
__________________
Karen L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 09:46 PM   #5
Member
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: Burro
Massachusetts
Posts: 76
The Red Max Pro is actually acrylic floor polish and has not been known to yellow. Many have had it on for several years with no sign of yellowing. Mine is now 1 year old and looks perfect.

Yes feather sanding is just blending the painted part into the non painted part.

RMP has been discontinued from many Lowe's stores. I got a huge bucket of it at close out prices, and have a lifetime supply. But it may be still available at some stores. The manufactures now calls it "Zep high traffic finish".

Here is a quote lifted from the forum.

"I called zep and asked them if they made red max pro, they did, but they discontinued it, instead they added it to their zep line. its called Zep high traffic finish 2U 0812128"

If you use it be sure to use a very smooth cloth and have only a small amount of polish in the cloth when applying or it will drip (run). Just barely damp is enough to wet the Burro. Don't worry, you will be doing 4 coats and it will be shining by coat 3. If it runs on you, you will be very sad. So take it slow.

I would polish it first, apply your decals then polish over everything again. If you don't polish first the hazy gel gloss finish may not hold the decals firmly enough.

Rick
__________________
rick.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 12:22 AM   #6
Member
 
Karen L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Karen L.
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 ft (My Burrito!)
Washington
Posts: 67
How do you keep the spray paint from running, or only to cover the bondo & not the entire trailer? The sanding & waxing even it out?? Did you use a sander or REALLY fine Grit paper & a sanding block?? I sure appreciate all you help! I don't have anyone to help or make suggestions!! The site is great! Now I'll try to bite the bullet & do it! If I mess up too badly, then I can take it to the pros!! Many years back, someone shot Burrito w/buckshot! I filled most of it in, but Bondo would help that & small leaks on the top, right?? I've got lots of Silicone on top for the leaks & indentation.. That should be removed, right?? I would think layer of Bondo & paint to help leaks?? Sure hope you aren't getting tired of questions! Our Burros are probably RELATED!!
__________________
Karen L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 09:01 AM   #7
Member
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: Burro
Massachusetts
Posts: 76
Hi Karen,

I did not know that you had extensive damage to repair. So you need to make the decision of which way to go. If the quotes that you got for the paint jobs included repairs of the damage then they now seem like a much better deal. But if you are on your own to do the repairs and the total areas are not very large then you might still consider doing a touch up paint job yourself followed by polish.

The key to doing this is that the oxidized gel coat can be sanded quite a bit with 220 or 440 grit paper (by hand-no block) and you will not see or detect the sanded area (with good technique). I actually just sanded out some stains and small sins on my Burro and then followed with only the polish (formerly called wax).

The most important thing is to find paint that matches. You can have a custom mix made and provided in a spray can. (you will need to look this up). But I went to an auto parts store and tried several versions of "off white" and ended up with one made for old Ford white color. It was a very close match, not perfect but VERY close.

You must have good spray paint technique. Practice on something else until you can get on several coats with absolutely no runs and no "orange peel" pattern. Practice on a vertical surface as this is the most difficult.

When you do your touch up painting, mask off all the areas that you don't want painted. Since you don't have the ability to do a real "blend" paint job (blending the new with the old with spray technique)-I cannot do it either...just mask right on the gel coat outside of your paint area. This will produce a hard line where the new meets the old and this is where you feather out the paint line to nothing with fine sandpaper (440 or higher). Create a "fade" from new to old. It is actually easier than it sounds since the old gel coat sands so easily. Paint must be rock hard dry in order to sand it properly.

The polishing step creates a shine which varies across the surface because of the curvature of the Burro body and this hides any color mismatch.

This technique does not produce a flawless surface but unless you are examining it closely it looks simply amazing. And for about $50 you can't beat it.

ps. What town are you located in?

R.
__________________
rick.a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 03:14 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Name: Jonas
Trailer: 81 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 2
Zep Finish

I am picking up some of the zep product you mentioned. The closest product I could find is the "commercial high traffic floor polish" is this the right one? I don't see any reference on the zep product description that it is specifically suitable for fiberglass but I assume this is what others have used with good results?

Thanks for the great info!!
__________________
Jonas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 03:42 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 1,045
I am working on my 1986 Scamp 16 and I have made numerous patches to fill in the cutouts for heater, refrigerator etc and now is the time to refinish and paint.
When I worked on airplanes an FAA inspector said that you should never use "Bondo" on an aircraft as it was illegal. With that said the head mechanic carried him back into the parts storage and pulled a can of Learjet "Aerodynamic fairing compound" with the factory part nunber and forms. It happened to be in a Genuine "Bondo" can!
That being said I have several places ti "fair" with the same aerodynamic fairing compound and holes where the old cabinets etc. were riveted in to patch. I ground out a hollow to give more surface area and some tooth to bond to and I have filled the unused holes and the outside of the scarf patches.
When I am finished with filling, sanding, filling, sanding I plan to prime with an Epoxy primer and coat with a Polyurethane white.
Since I have all of the equipment to paint aircraft the Scamp should not be too much of a bother, except for not having a space inside to shoot the paint!
I am considering buying one of those outdoor tent / garages that is approximately 20 X 20 and sealing it to the front of my garage and using a good fan to pull some air through a filter to flush out the fumes and overspray.
I have a remote air breathing mask etc. for the fumes for my use, I just need the space to paint where the dew in the mornings and the suicide driven bugs the rest of the time off the fresh paint.
Anyone shot their own trailer who has some good (or otherwise) advice?
__________________
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2015, 03:41 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Name: Marty
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1
When is it a good idea to do buffing?
__________________
martyjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2015, 04:31 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
RE: Color Matching: If you take your trailer to a commercial auto paint supplier they will come out to the trailer with a color spectrometer, read the exact color you have, and then mix what you need to match.. They can sell it to you in cans or as spray can paint. Again, find out where the body shops in your area get their paint.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2015, 09:27 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Berthaduniverse's Avatar
 
Name: Paul
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 1
I have worked with boat and automotive fiberglass for decades (even building entire cars from scratch), and I'll say one thing for sure, if you don't want to have checking, cracking, separation problems, stay with a high quality gelcoat, because nothing moves and flexes quite like fiberglass. Further, the underlying fiberglass is really prone to drying out and cracking, especially if its not sealed properly. So, if you value the trailer and want it to last, DON'T apply a bunch of unqualified materials that will make later work extremely difficult to repair or remove.
__________________
Berthaduniverse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #13
Member
 
Name: Mike & Helene
Trailer: Scamp 5er
Florida
Posts: 95
I used Zep floor finish on my Scamp 19 about 7 months ago. I did 4 coats with great success. I put it on with a spray/mist bottle and made sure there was no runs on ZEP on moved on to a new area. It took a while but the results were great. I still looks like I did it yesterday. This is the best stuff I have found so far. I HIGHLY recomend it to anyone. Just my two cents worth, but I hope some of you try it. You won't be disappointed.
__________________
Mike "Sully" Sullivan
Mike Sullivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2015, 11:28 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas View Post
I am picking up some of the zep product you mentioned. The closest product I could find is the "commercial high traffic floor polish" is this the right one? I don't see any reference on the zep product description that it is specifically suitable for fiberglass but I assume this is what others have used with good results?

Thanks for the great info!!
IF you see having your trailer painted or gelcoat repair done on it in the future DO NOT put floor finishing on it!!! TRUST ME its a real bad idea!

You will never get it completely off the trailer in the small scratches, dents etc resulting in a early paint job or gelcoat repair failure.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Scamp 5th wheel "bucking" on uneven surface ? Westcliffe01 Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 15 11-12-2013 11:29 PM
Needs ideas for a replacment fixture insert for outer light Panoz77 Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 9 09-03-2011 12:22 AM
Painting the outer shell - the frugal way...? Andrew GPSMapNut Modifications, Alterations and Updates 30 05-30-2011 10:10 AM
17' Casita on Outer Banks Chesley Sugg Classified Archives 2 11-16-2010 11:44 AM
Renewing gelcoat surface Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 06-18-2003 02:59 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.