repairing cracks

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I'm sure that it has been mentioned and I just overlooked it, but want to mention something here. If some of the rust is coming from some of the rivets, then they are not aluminum. Be sure to replace all of those with aluminun rivets. Two reasons: they won't rust and they are designed to break before damaging the fiberglass.

I removed rust from my trailer (vent on side and where the screw in the closet rod is). It took a while, but it can be done. However, I think I would start out at the boat place just to see what they say.

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The fiberglas cleaning section gives a lot of cleaning formulas and rubbing compound information.

Renee, You should have some pretty good ideals on how to get started. Good Luck

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Our Scamp had a similar problem as yours around the door hinges. I repaired it by removing the door with hinges, removing the insulation inside the door in the area of the hinge holes. I cut two pieces of hardwood to back up the thin fiberglass behind the hinges, cleaned the fiberglass well with acetone and glued the hardwood back-up plates with polyurethane (Grizzly) glue.

When the glue was set up, I positioned the door -- mine had sagged somewhat -- and redrilled the holes through the door hinge holes through the fiberglass and hardwood. Then I rehung the door with new stainless steel fasteners.

At the same time I also added a dead-bolt lock using the same technique with a hardwood backing piece to house the lock barrel. I'm not worried about a thief, but the original lock was badly worn and a new one of the same type was not available locally. Also, now I can use the same key for the Scamp as for our house:r :r

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An excellent book on all aspects of Fiberglass can be obtained free of charge at www.systemthree.com .
The book is directed at boat building and repair but there is lots of interest to trailer owners. I think that it is relevant to only one brand of fiberlass and resin but it makes good reading and the price is right.
It is a 50 page download and I printed it up and had it spring- bound at the local print shop for $2.00 (Can.)

( I am sorry that I do not know how to make the website address as a live hyperlink ). Colin

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Ron, you had referred to Charles link to West Marine above:

"The fiberglas cleaning section gives a lot of cleaning formulas and rubbing compound information"

Sorry, but I was in the fiberlass section at West Marine, and they didn't make a reference to a "cleaning section" I even typed "fiberglass cleaning" into the search feature and came up with nothing - could you point me in the right direction? Thanks - Renee

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I dunno about the construction details of the Bolers or Casitas in this regard (but I will look closely next time I get a chance). My '91 S13 has an actual crack in the fiberglass in the upper forward corner of the door frame, which wasn't there before I dragged it down the roads of Alaska, Yukon Terr and NorthWest Terr (roads which tore my closet and icebox doors off their hinges, just to give you a feel for it.

While messing about installing a frame for a door screen, I discovered that Scamp reinforces the forward edge of the door frame with a piece of square steel tubing in the fiberglass (magnet, how else?). Apparently , the reinforcement works because the crack is just above the top end of it! I am keeping an eye on the crack, and if it gets worse, I will drill holes at the ends to stop it from spreading and will install a curved piece of metal to continue around the corner. But so far, it hasn't gotten worse and the existing crack hasn't been leaking (it's under the rain shield over the doorway), so I am leaving well enuf alone.

With fiberglass boats, one can remove rust stains be sparing application of mild swimming pool acid. Be sure to take acid precautiions for personal safety and also be darned sure not to get the acid on metal parts (best way is to rinse down lower areas beforehand so they are already wet , apply acid and then rinse everything thoroughly, trying not to get acid on the actual metal that caused the rust, just the rust stains themselves).

Pete and Rats

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Click on Charles's link and then fiberglas cleaners. They show oxidation removers and rubbing compounds to restore luster.

Just try a rag with acetone on it to a area and see how it does. A lot of the time it will take a lot off. The compound is needed to restore luster and several was shown in the link. If the surface is real rough then use a coarse one first, then follow up with a fine one.

The acid that Pete suggest will remove calcium and rust deposits but it is very dangerous to use. And it will eat the zinc coating off of any hardware and cause it to rust later.

Ron

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Thanks, Ron for your valuable input! I am excited to start the restoration, but it will be a few months (weather in the teens here today in Iowa). In the meantime, I am getting all the "legwork" done
so I will be ready for the "elbow grease" time. Will post my progress as it develops.

Sincerest Thanks,
Renee from Iowa

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Orginally posted by Ron and Bernice
Just try a rag with acetone on it to a area and see how it does. A lot of the time it will take a lot off. The compound is needed to restore luster and several was shown in the link. If the surface is real rough then use a coarse one first, then follow up with a fine one.
Ron

acetone?? isn't that fingernail polish remover?

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Nailpolish remover is acetone with a fragrant oil thrown in. Not good for prepping gel coat. VERY flammible and toxic.

FWIW, I wrote an article about the various kinds of fiberglassing products available for boatbuilders. Most will be applicable to cute glass trailers.
http://sailing.about.com/library/weekly/aa112700a.htm
It is rather opinionated.

Be careful about mixing epoxy resin with a polyester resin structure-- which is probably what most trailers are. You can do it, but the prep is a beast. Epoxy resin is more of a yellow color.

I ramble on.:r

Kitty

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Thanks, Kitty! Good Stuff!