Replacement Power Converter

[Thomas W]

The original 15amp power converter on my 1980 Trillium 4500 seems a bit dodgy these days (doesnt always transmit battery power, maybe a loose wire; and is not able to keep up with electric heaters very well). It still has the original wiring configuration, AC plugs when hooked to shore power, and 12V DC lights through the converter on shore power; or just 12V DC lights on battery power. No inverters or other aux hookups.
So Im looking for a fairly small converter, maybe 25 or 30 amp, that doesnt hum, and if it would fit in a similar hole in the cabinet about 7" x 14", that would be cool. Also, I'd like it to be able to recharge the the battery while on shore power. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tom

[Timwiltshire]

I just bought a progressive dynamics PD4635 for my Bigfoot, works quite nicely and has a built in charge wizard for your batteries.

[John in Michigan]

Thomas W, I have re-used the old converter in my Trillium 4500 by replacing the transformer with a power supply and replacing the push button circuit breakers and panel switch. So I am still limited to 120 VAC 15 amp shore power.

NOW I am looking to replace the ancient converter with a new converter that provides 120 VAC 30 amp shore power. However I have not found a replacement converter or replacement AC/DC distribution box that fits in the tiny space where the ancient converter is located. Please let me know if you find something that fits! Other option I am considering is to use a Progressive Dynamics 4135 (with charge wizard) and install it in the opening (hamper) just inside the door on the left.

[thrifty bill]

John, the WFCO 8725 is really close in size. I'm considering one on my Trillium 1300.


BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics

[John in Michigan]

Thrifty Bill, the WFCO 8725 might just work for the Trillium 4500. I will measure again when I am back home. The Trillium 4500 fit is tight for 2 reasons. First, there is only about 3.9 inches clearance (will re-check this) from the cabinet front surface to the back of the compartment down near the bottom of the cabinet. Second, the converter opening is down near the floor and then directly above that is old furnace opening, so not much leeway on size..

[thrifty bill]

Worst comes to worst I figured I would build a wood frame for it, paint to match the doors, either 1/2 inch birch plywood or 3/4 inch maple

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

Thomas W, I have re-used the old converter in my Trillium 4500 by replacing the transformer with a power supply and replacing the push button circuit breakers and panel switch. So I am still limited to 120 VAC 15 amp shore power.

NOW I am looking to replace the ancient converter with a new converter that provides 120 VAC 30 amp shore power. However I have not found a replacement converter or replacement AC/DC distribution box that fits in the tiny space where the ancient converter is located. Please let me know if you find something that fits! Other option I am considering is to use a Progressive Dynamics 4135 (with charge wizard) and install it in the opening (hamper) just inside the door on the left.

I don't understand what converter has to do with 120VAC?

A converter doesn't provide any 120 VAC......


FYI I turned off my converter about 5 years ago and never missed it. The only time the trailer is plugged in when it's sitting in it's cover beside my house. Then to keep the battery charged I use a "Battery Minder". When camping I use a solar panel after few days of camping. I don't bother with that even for weekend.

[thrifty bill]

Typically, converters are part of a power distribution system, which includes a main 120V breaker and separate 120 V circuit breakers, a converter, smart battery charger, and multiple 12V fuse panel, all in one relatively small box at a reasonable cost. The one I referenced above is under $100 shipped.


Right next to the furnace sounds like a non-starter for this unit. See installation instructions. "Fortunately" my furnace is long gone.....

And FWIW my 1979 Trillium never had a battery. Still doesn’t. It’s on the list to do.

http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/...8725manual.pdf

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Typically, converters are part of a power distribution system, which includes a main 120V breaker and separate 120 V circuit breakers, a converter, smart battery charger, and multiple 12V fuse panel, all in one relatively small box at a reasonable cost. The one I referenced above is under $100 shipped.


Right next to the furnace sounds like a non-starter for this unit. See installation instructions. "Fortunately" my furnace is long gone.....

And FWIW my 1979 Trillium never had a battery. Still doesn’t. It’s on the list to do.

http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/...8725manual.pdf

Typically a "converter" is nothing more than a "power supply" with battery charging circuitry designed to NOT over charge a 12 volt flooded cell battery. They are fluff that's not really needed. The same function done as well can be done a lot cheaper and as good.
If you're always connected to shore power a Battery Minder will do the job for about $50. If like me you're never connected to shore power then converter is never used. Without a battery you have to be going to RV resorts and paying high prices and still connected to the grid. To each their own.


Now if you go back and read the OPs first post it was stated he wanted to replace his converter to "provide 120 VAC at 40 amps". My guess is that the wiring in his trailer is only rated for 15 or 20 amps. But since he was confusing the 12 VDC system with 120 VAC system it's really difficult to understand what he's trying to do and show a lack of real understanding of basic electricity.

[thrifty bill]

If you call state, county and city parks RV resorts, sure.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

If you call state, county and city parks RV resorts, sure.

To me anything place that is "ON THE GRID" meaning has at least power is an RV resort.


I suggest you might want to change your MFROG name that doesn't include the word "thrifty". 2018 I spent less than $7.50 per night for about 100 nights.

[John in Michigan]

Byron, what are you saying? I don't see "provide 120 VAC at 40 amps" anywhere in the original poster's post! He mentions using an electric heater. It appears he might be using his camper the way that I use mine much of the time. At least 80% of time, I camp where there is power (state park, regional park, etc.). So it would make sense to have a functioning converter to serve both AC and DC circuits at the same time. The forty year old Trillium converters are unreliable if they work at all.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Typically a "converter" is nothing more than a "power supply" with battery charging circuitry designed to NOT over charge a 12 volt flooded cell battery. They are fluff that's not really needed. The same function done as well can be done a lot cheaper and as good.
If you're always connected to shore power a Battery Minder will do the job for about $50.

will that battery minder provide sufficient power for all your DC loads when you're plugged into shore power *and* charge your battery?

because thats what a power center/converter does.

DC loads might include your water pump, the fan in your heater, or your overhead fan(s), your lighting, maybe a DC refrigerator (my casita has a propane/dc fridge with no 120VAC... if you have shore power, you run it on DC, otherwise propane).

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

will that battery minder provide sufficient power for all your DC loads when you're plugged into shore power *and* charge your battery?

because thats what a power center/converter does.

DC loads might include your water pump, the fan in your heater, or your overhead fan(s), your lighting, maybe a DC refrigerator (my casita has a propane/dc fridge with no 120VAC... if you have shore power, you run it on DC, otherwise propane).

Does it matter whether the power comes from the "converter" or the battery to run the DC stuff? The battery would get recharged every night.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

Byron, what are you saying? I don't see "provide 120 VAC at 40 amps" anywhere in the original poster's post! He mentions using an electric heater. It appears he might be using his camper the way that I use mine much of the time. At least 80% of time, I camp where there is power (state park, regional park, etc.). So it would make sense to have a functioning converter to serve both AC and DC circuits at the same time. The forty year old Trillium converters are unreliable if they work at all.

I'm sorry I was wrong it was in your post.

[thrifty bill]

Yes, I definitely misspoke earlier. A converter is a part that converts 120V to 12V DC. John above replaced just the converter in his old power center. They are not interchangeable. Instead, a RV power center will often include a converter as part of its design. But its a power center, not a converter.

I've considered this option on my old power center, just replace the converter component.

If I piecemeal together everything in that WFCO power center, I would probably spend more than just buying the power center. And its cleaner to me at least to having all the pieces in one spot. Compared to the old unit in my trailer, I get four 12V circuits versus one, 25 AMP 12 V capacity versus 6 AMP, two 120 V breaker slots, smart battery charger, etc. How well this unit works, I have no idea.

They also sell a 12AMP capacity unit, which would probably be more than adequate for my Trillium. Price is almost identical,

Size is only slightly larger than the Power Dynamics PD-6911.


99% of my camping is done with my Escape 19. My 1977 Trillium is just a project right now. Getting it up and operation is this year's goal.