Replacing ~9" roof vent in Boler - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-11-2008, 11:13 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Thanks, Roy,

This trailer seems pretty original, so perhaps it is the original vent (although the inside trim "ring" seems to simply be friction fit). The folks I bought it from had owned it for over 20 years, and weren't the "modding" types. They kept up with maintenance things like frame painting, wheel bearings, and tires, but kept it stock.

One funny anecdote related to that: When I was in the process of purchasing the trailer, a question came up that the owners couldn't answer, but they thought the previous owner might know about. So they looked him up in the telephone book and called him. He answered, it was him, and they talked for a few minutes. Then he said to the fellow whom I was buying it from, "So, how have you liked the trailer? Did it work out well for you?" --- as if they had bought it six months before Of course the fact that they weren't selling it until over 20 years later did kind of answer the question, but I thought it was charming anyway (they bought a new 16' Scamp).
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Old 12-12-2008, 09:36 PM   #16
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Hi Raya
There was a 9" vent cover on the roof of our Boler that was quite bent up when we purchased it. I replaced that old metal cover with a 14" model that has a tinted lexan lid and have never regreted changing to a larger size.That was 14 years ago and we've never had a bit of trouble with it. No matter what kind of windows you have in your's, any extra ventilation on a muggy day is welcome. Like Chester an others have said, a jig saw a bit of butyl tape and you're all set.
Jim
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:19 PM   #17
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Hi Jim,

Thanks for the input. I'm okay with the process of cutting a larger hole, although I still may not choose to enlarge the vent at this time. I think my trailer may be garageable at its current height - a feature I may want to keep. I'll have to measure. I wish the mini-vent came with a clear top.

Either way, I'm curious: Was there any framing around your original vent hole? If not, did you add any since the new hole is over twice the area?

Thanks,

Raya
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Old 12-13-2008, 01:13 AM   #18
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Raya:
My Burro came with the Elixir vent in the bathroom as standard. When the first one went bad I searched high and low for a different replacement but to no avail.
I replaced it and in a fairly short time it also failed and started leaking when the plastic cracked around the hinge area.
I'm now on my third one and it has started leaking. There is little question that it is a poorly manufactured item, and Elixir does not have a solution (which I tried to find when the weatherstripping failed). This third one was also ivory in color which seems to have been one of the two color options, but I had determined to spray paint it anyway since even the polar white one faded into an ochre eyesore.
As long as this is the only 9" by 9" available I have determined that when I have to fix it I will instead custom fabricate a skylight to take its place from some acrylic and whatever material seems appropriate and install a powered vent similar to the ones used in the Casitas, Olivers, etc. in a different place in the bathroom.
Bottom line is that you are likely to keep replacing this flimsy piece on an ongoing basis unless you devise a different strategy. When the leak becomes unacceptable that is what I will do.
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:39 AM   #19
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Per,

Thanks for the tip. The mini-vent certainly doesn't look too robust in the photos. But then the smoked-plastic-dome 14 x 14 vent I bought years ago for my pickup topper was pretty flimsy too, so maybe they're not much better and I would still have the hassle of enlarging the hole (not that it woudl be a problem if there were a good reward).

I've been looking at the metal-topped one at Vintage Trailer Supply. That wouldn't let any light in but would be low-profile. The metal sounds sturdy, but it looks as though it's actuallyl based on the same bottom part as the plastic-topped vents, so that my be just an illusion.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Metal_...t_p/vts-280.htm

Has anyone put in a nice, sturdy vent? I'm not looking for a powered one; just a basic vent.

Coming from the boating world, it's amazing to me how flimsy a lot of the RV stuff is. Of course it's also twenty times cheaper, and there is much more priority placed on weight savings. That's not so much of an issue when you have a 4,000# hunk of lead stuck to the bottom of your craft

I'm still hoping someone will chime in with specifics on whether they felt the need to add any framing when they enlarged the hole to 14 x 14. I really don't have a lot headroom to spare (I guess I'd better figure out how far the various cranks hang down, too). Also, vents such as the one linked above say they are for roof thicknesses of "1-7/8 - 3" but can be trimmed." I wonder if they can be trimmed to the 1/4" or so of a Boler roof

If no clear better option presents itself, I may just go ahead and replace with the Elixir vent for now (winterish) and then re-evaluate later on. Not that I want to do this twice! If I do, I certainly won't waste the extra money for the more-expensive white one (thanks Per).

Raya
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Old 12-13-2008, 06:18 AM   #20
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The big plus for having a larger vent (or fan) is the fact heat rises. Although windows can provide cross ventilation, unless there's a vent on the ceiling, heat gets trapped. The larger the opening, the more heat is removed. A small vent may do the job, but if I was going to be chopping a hole I'd want to put one of these in: MaxxFan. I like the fact it's low profile too.

BTW: Someone in another post (I can't find it!) mentioned the crank hanging down on their vent was problematic... keep hitting their head on it. So, they simply removed it and threw it in a drawer. When needing to crank the vent open and closed, grabbed the handle out of the drawer and used it. I guess the shaft is square... and just slipped on and off once the set screw was removed. That may be a solution for you too Raya.
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:05 AM   #21
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Hi: Raya... When I did my MaxxFan install I made the two 3/4 plywood rings for several reasons. 1 to spread out the weight of the fan. 2 to be able to use the S/S screws that came with the fan. 3 to act like a clamp to the fiberglass ala window install. 4 to add thickness to the roof and 5 to help conceal the control knobs from unsuspecting heads. Alf p.s. when selling our Boler the 3spd. 12v. reversable roof vent was a major plus!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:31 AM   #22
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Thanks Alf and Donna,

In hunting down information on larger vents last night, I just kep coming up with ones that were made for thick roofs, and so I was wondering how people dealt with that (some of them say they can be trimmed, but in looking at them, I can't see how you could take a big swath off the spigot depth without losing vital parts).

So Alf, when you say you made two 3/4" plywood rings, were they both on the inside (I'm thinking that they were). Any special reason you used plywood? (I suppose maybe so you could cut them out of one piece instead of having to glue up boards?)

Actually, I'm not tall enough to have it bother me, but I'm still somewhat horrified by the thought of having the vent itself hang down nearly 2" inside the trailer (and that's even assuming I remove the crank handle).

I can see where adding a powered fan would be attractive to potential buyers, but for myself, I don't really want to add one right now. And while I'm not averse to thinking about resale, I don't really want to base my outfitting of the camper on it. I always feel like there's so much re-sale-value pressure on things. I know that in the past it's made me live with, or do/not do things, on boats that weren't for me at all, just because of this theoretical buyer somewhere down the line.

I've got a couple of boat fans that I already own, which I can use if I have electricity available, and if I don't, then I'm thinking it would be nice to have a bare screen there instead of a fan. In terms of selling, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep this trailer long term, but it's not a "gold plater," so I see its selling niche as being the "lower priced but everything works and is clean and original in a non-hacked way" one that would allow someone to get into an egg who was on a budget and be able to go camping right away.

Although there are benefits to a larger vent, it's too bad no-one makes a high-quality 9-incher (and for that matter the larger ones that I've found don't look all too sturdy either).

Thanks again for the input,

Raya
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:55 AM   #23
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Hi: Raya... I used 3/4 plywood for light weight one piece rings... both on the inside of the roof. The min. roof thickness for the MaxxFan was 1 & 1/2" so 2 rings, one to screw the fan to and one for spacer and screw the interior trim to!!! I was lucky enough to be able to ease the Ensolite down over both rings and staple it to the plywood under the trim ring for the fan, for a custom finish. I had to cut about 4" off the trim bezel but the instructions were easy to follow.
Yes it's too bad the 8X8 or 9X9 vents were replaced by the 14X14 as industry standards. The mfg. of Bolers then moved the location of the larger vents to the center of the roof. Our '77 was like that so easy to install a 14X14" MaxxFan. My brothers '72 had the smaller off center vent so the roof had to be enlarged and looked terrible with a vent cover on it.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:15 AM   #24
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Thanks for the additional info, Alf.

One part I don't understand though:

Quote:
My brothers '72 had the smaller off center vent so the roof had to be enlarged and looked terrible with a vent cover on it.
What do you mean about his roof having to be enlarged, and then looking terrible? If I do enlarge the opening for mine, I don't see how it would change or denigrate the looks. What am I missing?

I was actually thinking that the off-centerdness was a good thing, as any part of the vent that protrudes into the trailer will not be right in the center where one tends to walk, but instead over by the sink where people tend to stoop a bit anyway as they work at the kitchen. Since the vent is right alongside the lower part of the roof on the kichen side, I figured I'd just enlarge by cutting towards the other side (and then either forward or aft).

Raya
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:06 PM   #25
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Hi:...Raya...sooorry for the confoosion. I will clarify!!! My brothers Boler had the vent over the sink/stove side of the roof. He enlarged the hole from 9X9 to 14X14& installed a Fantastic Fan in the trailer, before I did mine. His fan had no built in rain hood like the MaxxFan does so he added a large external rain hood on top of the fan and it was lopsided and hung off the edge of the raised portion of the roof. It then filled with leaves etc. and required climbing up to clear out...so he took it off and couldn't have the vent open in the rain!!! This is not a problem with the MaxxFan
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:34 PM   #26
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For what it's worth, I came across this smaller alternative from the boating world... Has a small built-in fan, but not nearly as powerful as a MaxxFan. And also means that you'd have to reduce the opening rather than enlarge it. Nicro Powervent 3000
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Old 12-13-2008, 03:50 PM   #27
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Alf,

Thanks for clarifying. I couldn't see how a larger vent could ruin the roof, but I thought I'd double check after what you had seen. I checked out the Maxx fan, but I think I'd like to stick with a regular vent. Oftentimes I don't have electricity, and then I'd rather just have a "bare" screen, without all the fan and vent stuff there. I'm okay with not opening it in the rain, as I have four other windows I can leave open in the rain.

Doug,

I know the Nicro vent from boating. They are a neat idea, and work well as the boat sits in a slip - and to a certain extent underway. But I have had to replace quite a number of them on customer's boats, due to problems, and they ain't cheap! They're also not completely waterproof, and I don't know that I'd trust them at 60 mph in the rain. Some of them you take out in rough weather and replace with a deck cap (of course you can reach them on a boat); the square ones have a thingie inside that you can twist to seal them off, but I'm still not convinced.

Looks like if I want a "plain" vent of either size, I'll just have to go with the standard, "flimsy" ones. I don't see any brands that look particularly more robust than any other ones, at least that I can find by searching "roof vent" online. If someone has found a good-quality, non-powered, simple vent, please let me know (and anyone else who might find this thread while looking for one).

Thanks,
Raya
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Old 12-13-2008, 06:45 PM   #28
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Hi: Raya... I think if it were me and a plain vent would do I would look long and hard at the all metal one from Vintage Tr. as the flimsiest part of the others is the plastic lid. They either break off in the wind or crumble from the UV rays My 2 cents worth.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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