Replacing ~9" roof vent in Boler

[Alf S.]

Hi: Raya... When I did my MaxxFan install I made the two 3/4 plywood rings for several reasons. 1 to spread out the weight of the fan. 2 to be able to use the S/S screws that came with the fan. 3 to act like a clamp to the fiberglass ala window install. 4 to add thickness to the roof and 5 to help conceal the control knobs from unsuspecting heads. Alf p.s. when selling our Boler the 3spd. 12v. reversable roof vent was a major plus!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Raya]

Thanks Alf and Donna,

In hunting down information on larger vents last night, I just kep coming up with ones that were made for thick roofs, and so I was wondering how people dealt with that (some of them say they can be trimmed, but in looking at them, I can't see how you could take a big swath off the spigot depth without losing vital parts).

So Alf, when you say you made two 3/4" plywood rings, were they both on the inside (I'm thinking that they were). Any special reason you used plywood? (I suppose maybe so you could cut them out of one piece instead of having to glue up boards?)

Actually, I'm not tall enough to have it bother me, but I'm still somewhat horrified by the thought of having the vent itself hang down nearly 2" inside the trailer (and that's even assuming I remove the crank handle).

I can see where adding a powered fan would be attractive to potential buyers, but for myself, I don't really want to add one right now. And while I'm not averse to thinking about resale, I don't really want to base my outfitting of the camper on it. I always feel like there's so much re-sale-value pressure on things. I know that in the past it's made me live with, or do/not do things, on boats that weren't for me at all, just because of this theoretical buyer somewhere down the line.

I've got a couple of boat fans that I already own, which I can use if I have electricity available, and if I don't, then I'm thinking it would be nice to have a bare screen there instead of a fan. In terms of selling, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep this trailer long term, but it's not a "gold plater," so I see its selling niche as being the "lower priced but everything works and is clean and original in a non-hacked way" one that would allow someone to get into an egg who was on a budget and be able to go camping right away.

Although there are benefits to a larger vent, it's too bad no-one makes a high-quality 9-incher (and for that matter the larger ones that I've found don't look all too sturdy either).

Thanks again for the input,

Raya

[Alf S.]

Hi: Raya... I used 3/4 plywood for light weight one piece rings... both on the inside of the roof. The min. roof thickness for the MaxxFan was 1 & 1/2" so 2 rings, one to screw the fan to and one for spacer and screw the interior trim to!!! I was lucky enough to be able to ease the Ensolite down over both rings and staple it to the plywood under the trim ring for the fan, for a custom finish. I had to cut about 4" off the trim bezel but the instructions were easy to follow.
Yes it's too bad the 8X8 or 9X9 vents were replaced by the 14X14 as industry standards. The mfg. of Bolers then moved the location of the larger vents to the center of the roof. Our '77 was like that so easy to install a 14X14" MaxxFan. My brothers '72 had the smaller off center vent so the roof had to be enlarged and looked terrible with a vent cover on it.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Raya]

Thanks for the additional info, Alf.

One part I don't understand though:

My brothers '72 had the smaller off center vent so the roof had to be enlarged and looked terrible with a vent cover on it.

What do you mean about his roof having to be enlarged, and then looking terrible? If I do enlarge the opening for mine, I don't see how it would change or denigrate the looks. What am I missing?

I was actually thinking that the off-centerdness was a good thing, as any part of the vent that protrudes into the trailer will not be right in the center where one tends to walk, but instead over by the sink where people tend to stoop a bit anyway as they work at the kitchen. Since the vent is right alongside the lower part of the roof on the kichen side, I figured I'd just enlarge by cutting towards the other side (and then either forward or aft).

Raya

[Alf S.]

Hi:...Raya...sooorry for the confoosion. I will clarify!!! My brothers Boler had the vent over the sink/stove side of the roof. He enlarged the hole from 9X9 to 14X14& installed a Fantastic Fan in the trailer, before I did mine. His fan had no built in rain hood like the MaxxFan does so he added a large external rain hood on top of the fan and it was lopsided and hung off the edge of the raised portion of the roof. It then filled with leaves etc. and required climbing up to clear out...so he took it off and couldn't have the vent open in the rain!!! This is not a problem with the MaxxFan
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Daniel V.]

For what it's worth, I came across this smaller alternative from the boating world... Has a small built-in fan, but not nearly as powerful as a MaxxFan. And also means that you'd have to reduce the opening rather than enlarge it. Nicro Powervent 3000

[Raya]

Alf,

Thanks for clarifying. I couldn't see how a larger vent could ruin the roof, but I thought I'd double check after what you had seen. I checked out the Maxx fan, but I think I'd like to stick with a regular vent. Oftentimes I don't have electricity, and then I'd rather just have a "bare" screen, without all the fan and vent stuff there. I'm okay with not opening it in the rain, as I have four other windows I can leave open in the rain.

Doug,

I know the Nicro vent from boating. They are a neat idea, and work well as the boat sits in a slip - and to a certain extent underway. But I have had to replace quite a number of them on customer's boats, due to problems, and they ain't cheap! They're also not completely waterproof, and I don't know that I'd trust them at 60 mph in the rain. Some of them you take out in rough weather and replace with a deck cap (of course you can reach them on a boat); the square ones have a thingie inside that you can twist to seal them off, but I'm still not convinced.

Looks like if I want a "plain" vent of either size, I'll just have to go with the standard, "flimsy" ones. I don't see any brands that look particularly more robust than any other ones, at least that I can find by searching "roof vent" online. If someone has found a good-quality, non-powered, simple vent, please let me know (and anyone else who might find this thread while looking for one).

Thanks,
Raya

[Alf S.]

Hi: Raya... I think if it were me and a plain vent would do I would look long and hard at the all metal one from Vintage Tr. as the flimsiest part of the others is the plastic lid. They either break off in the wind or crumble from the UV rays My 2 cents worth.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[james kent]

When I replaced the vent I just cut the new hole making the opening as close to the centerof the roof as I could. I did not add any extra support inside or outside. The flange around the vent is only about 6" away from raised area sides and since the vent isn't adding a lot of weight I didn't feel it was necessary. I don't think that the larger vent sticks up any higher than the old one did. I put a set of 9" rims and tires on the trailer and have about 1" of clearance to get the trailer into the garage for the winter. Just remember to close the vent before you back the trailer into the garage. Lexan doesn't break easily but it will scratch.

[Don N]

Our Trillium 1300 has this steel roof vent in it. It measures 9" square and has a big round red letter "h" in the middle of it. Couldn't see any other markings. Is this the original vent for these models? Can I expect to have trouble with it down the road? Is this the style you are trying to replace?

[Raya]

That's a Hehr brand vent, and was standard on the Trilliums. As far as I know, they're pretty robust. It opens by pulling a chain that hangs down inside the trailer.

The vent I'm planning to replace is on a Boler. It's not the Hehr vent you have. I think the one I have is plastic (and may be the Elixir Mini-vent). It also looks as though it has been replaced at some point since 1974.

I don't know if there was ever a "standard" vent on the Bolers like there was on the Trillium.

In any case, bet that Hehr vent is pretty robust -- I know my Hehr windows are still going strong. I wish they still made that vent, as I'd install one in a heartbeat, but as far as I know they no longer make it

Raya

[Daniel V.]

Our Trillium 1300 has this steel roof vent in it. It measures 9" square and has a big round red letter "h" in the middle of it. Couldn't see any other markings. Is this the original vent for these models? Can I expect to have trouble with it down the road? Is this the style you are trying to replace?

I don't know what Raya has, but that's indeed the original vent in a lot of the older Trilliums, except yours has got a missing bug screen. The H stands for Hehr, which is also the maker of the original Trillium jalousie windows. I'd tend to believe that it would be one of the most durable vents ever made, as it seems to be all aluminium and zero plastic, only you can't leave it open in the rain. Mine is as old as yours and still in splendid shape, though I've replaced the screen.

[Don N]

How does the screen mount? Shouldn't be too hard to fabricate one. Good idea for the screen. Will have to put that on the to-do list while I have it in the garage to redo some wiring and install a battery.

[Daniel V.]

How does the screen mount? Shouldn't be too hard to fabricate one. Good idea for the screen. Will have to put that on the to-do list while I have it in the garage to redo some wiring and install a battery.

Now this could be moved to a separate topic, but cutting a new one is definitely no big deal, and the screen is basically just tucked around the frame. But doing a good job is a whole lot easier if you remove the vent... something you will most likely have to do at some point to reseal it... at least once every 30 years.

[Don N]

How about a stupid question?? I haven't looked at it yet, but I don't see any screws/rivets on the inside frame holding it in. What is involved to take the vent out (and reseal it of course)? Screws from the top side maybe...