Replacing rivets? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #29
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If anyone needs snap caps and and bases check with pro-dec.com

I bought all I needed for my 13' Scamp for about $2.00 more than just the shipping Scamp charges.
I ordered them on the evening of the 19th and they were in my mail box on the 23rd.

The sizes you will need are 8/8-100 for the curtain rod rivets and 12/12-100 for the larger rivets.
The bases are sold seperately 8/8 FB and 12/12-FBA.

John
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:38 PM   #30
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Today was the day to rerivet and replace every missing snap cap and remove and reseal the jalousie windows
There aren't any caps so every rivet has to be replaced.
My helper didn't show up so I had to figure a way to rivet and hold the Acorn nuts on the inside.

I ended up using crazy glue to glue the rivet in place.
Then I put a small amount of silicone caulking in the Acorn nut and slipped it on the rivet. It worked very well.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:26 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk View Post
Glad my ParkLiner is rivet free ( well the hinges for storage use rivets but nothing passing through to the outside) I looked at a scamp 16 that would have needed all the exterior rivets replaced...but found my ParkLiner and went with that!
I have owned and worked on countless Scamps and have never seen one which needed more than a few rivets replaced after harsh use, I have however seen rotten wood inside the cabinet supports of trailers which used that method for attachment points.

I have seen the Parkliner and I think it is a fine trailer. It is, of course, new.
Several of my Scamps were over thirty years old with solid integrity and tight rivets. The unwarranted attacks on "through the hull" attachment points, won't improve the integrity or build quality of those using other forms of attachment.

My Scamp is nine years old at this point, and barring accident, I invite you to share a fiberglass rally with us nine years from now. We can then compare notes and trailer condition. I'll still be willing to consider it an even comparison with my Scamp at twice the age of the Parkliner.
If you take care of your trailer, we will simply both be espousing the wonderful merits and longevity of FIBERGLASS around the campfire.
See you then, I hope!
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
Today was the day to rerivet and replace every missing snap cap and remove and reseal the jalousie windows
There aren't any caps so every rivet has to be replaced.
My helper didn't show up so I had to figure a way to rivet and hold the Acorn nuts on the inside.

I ended up using crazy glue to glue the rivet in place.
Then I put a small amount of silicone caulking in the Acorn nut and slipped it on the rivet. It worked very well.

Hope this helps.

John
Not sure about the early Bigfoots,... but early Scamps, Ecos,LoveBugs,etc, were assembled without the use of the decorative snapcaps. In fact there is one small drawback to the snapcaps. They are not UV protected. It is wise to spend about $9 every 5-10 years to replace the caps and preserve the bases. I've done mine once before I had indoor storage. It took about 20 minutes. Less time and money than a single wax job.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:26 PM   #33
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Rivets

I also didn't/still haven't worked with rivets. But if you go on 'Youtube' you will be surprised at the little learning video's they have. Try it.

Good Luck to all of us
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:12 PM   #34
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I think you're correct Floyd.
I replaced every rivet on the trailer and there was no indication of any snap cap washers.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:35 PM   #35
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I always figured the reason the factory used pop-rivets was to keep the cost down. I had one rivet at the top rear corner of the bathroom that still leaked after a second replacement -- so I replaced it with 1/4-20 stainless steel screw, washers and nut liberally coated with a sealant. It never leaked after that but looked kind of ugly.

Later, about 10 years ago, I made it a day's project to replace all the rivets with stainless steel. This time instead of using a sealer under the washers I used shop-made rubber washers.

The washers were thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch rubber hydraulic hose. I set up a stop on a band saw set up with a fine tooth blade. At first I had a problem with the rubber squirming during the cut. That problem was corrected by inserting a sacrificial wooden dowel into the hose.

Replacing one rivet at a time was a little slow, but that way there was no shifting of the panel. It was "drill out the old rivet with an 1/8 inch drill, remove the head with a chisel, punch out the remainder with a punch, redrill the hole to 1/4 inch, clean the area around the rivet head with scotch brite, insert new hardware from the outside, go inside the trailer and install the new inside hardware and tighten with a 7/16 long socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet."

With the holes drilled exactly the size of the hardware, as I would begin tightening, the rubber washers would compress against the screw and keep it from turning. I was able to do them all without assistance.

Not many would go to that extent, but I had recently retired and just decided it was a good thing to do to improve my time For some reason I just love that little trailer. I suffer some from insomnia. When that happens I just quietly pack up and finish the night in the trailer, usually sleeping like a baby. I know -- kinda crazy. But it works for me! :>)
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:45 PM   #36
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I just replaced all the rivets of a 13' scamp with a helper. He was mot helpfull to prevent the rivet from spinning when drilling it out but also to put the acorn nut on before tightening the rivet?

Could I have tightened the rivet first and then screw the nut on?
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:38 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by chse View Post
I just replaced all the rivets of a 13' scamp with a helper. He was mot helpfull to prevent the rivet from spinning when drilling it out but also to put the acorn nut on before tightening the rivet?

Could I have tightened the rivet first and then screw the nut on?
I've tried it both ways. Screwing the acorn nut on afterwards has never worked very well for me... Mostly I've just dispensed with the acorn nuts entirely. They're a nice trim item but not necessary for function.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:13 PM   #38
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Hello,

I have a 79 Scamp that has about 5 rivet leaks. Do you guys think I should replace them with rivets or bolts? I was thinking stainless steel bolts, but just found that stainless steel rivets exist. Any pros or cons for either choice?

Thanks, Stacy
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:53 AM   #39
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Some have successfully used stainless screws, others think they could damage the fiberglass and prefer to keep the aluminum rivets as the weak point.

I tend to agree with the aluminum rivet side, but have used stainless hardware for the stronger connections like the awning, etc.

Personally, get yourself some new rivet caps and aluminum rivets, put a bit of butyl tape on the back of the cap, and you're good.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:13 AM   #40
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I just went through all my rivets; checking and replacing any that were loose or looked in need of replacing. I drilled out the old, Put a little 50yr flexible caulking in/around the hole. Inserted the new rivet and clear gasket/cap holder. The hard thing is needing someone to be inside to hold the acorn nut when drilling and replacing. My DW got volunteered for that job. I also removed old caulking at roof vents on top and re-caulked with RV Lap sealant.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #41
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Easiest way to remove a rivet:

Use a 1/2 inch countersink drill bit, available at any hardware store. It fits all rivet sizes and you never have to worry about falling off the head and drilling through the 'glass. Once the head is removed grab the body, from the inside, with a pair of pliers and it will fall right out. It's the most efficient method I have found.

Nick
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:39 PM   #42
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I've drilled out my share of rivets. Usually there's nothing to grab on the inside. The "extra" falls down someplace between the body and the reflextic/rat fur. One hundred years from now, someone is going to find a bunch of rivet barrels along the floor of my Scamp
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