Replacing rivets?

[camper1887]

Thanks for the info Harvey. Most all of mine the plastic washer is broken and missing. What size rivet do you use to replace the rivets and what rivet gun is good to use? Thanks!

[Harvey]

I ordered the rivet replacement kit from Scamp, big mistake. The rivets they sent to replace the large rivets that hold cabinets, closet, etc, altho of correct 'barrel' diameter were waaay too long for most application (at least in my '84 Scamp 13). There may be some locations I'll need 'em that long but I ain't found any yet. The ones from Scamp are standard 3/16" diameter aluminum rivets but they're about 1 1/8" in length. I tried a couple but they stuck out so far inside it just didn't look right. I experimented with different lengths & settled on same diameter but with a 5/8" grip range. That gives me plenty of 'reach' with a 'locking' washer inside (or the acorn nuts). Your later/larger model may require some of the longer rivets but I'd sure check first. On my trailer the curtain rod holders are also riveted using 1/8" dia rivets with a 1/4" grip range. They have a smaller head so require a different plastic 'cup' & cap than the large rivets. I think you can order the caps & cups separately from Scamp in different quantities. I use an old Stanley brand hand rivet gun. It has 4 different sized 'nose' pieces to accommodate rivet stems from 1/8" to 1/4" (rivet size). If you're doing a lot I'd recommend some kind of power/air driven gun as this one is kinda hard on the hands after 20-25 rivets . Works OK tho if ya just take your time. I hafta use both hands sometime. I'm blessed with an infinitely patient wife who is my 'third' (sometimes fourth) hand, & willingly holds the washers or acorn nuts in place inside while I 'set' the rivet Darlin'. Oh yeah, you can buy different size/llength rivets in quantity at most 'big box' stores, or local hardware, probably cheaper than Scamp especially when you figure shipping.

Here's pic of the rivets, cup, cap, & acorn nut (the one Scamp sent is on the right, left is what I used - second pic is my old Stanley tool

[camper1887]

Thanks Harvey you have been very helpful. What size drill bit do you usually need to pop the head off the rivet? The ones you ordered from scamp, were they the one that comes with the rivet, acorn nut, washer, and cap? Thanks!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Depending on where in the country (UVs) maintenance is about every five years to replace the caps. It's best to do it before needed, not after they've disintergrated. If done before damage to the underlying clear "gasket" happens, you don't need to use any caulk. There's a reason the white buttons (caps) are called snap caps.

Karalyn, you do know you are only trading rivets for seams... right.... in looking at stick built trailers? There isn't a trailer made that doesn't require maintenance. At least with molded you know they hold their value.

Every time you replace your tires

[Harvey]

Originally Posted by camper1887

Thanks Harvey you have been very helpful. What size drill bit do you usually need to pop the head off the rivet? The ones you ordered from scamp, were they the one that comes with the rivet, acorn nut, washer, and cap? Thanks!

I usually use a 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit to remove the heads. I've seen other folks use same size bit as the rivet but the larger, shallower bit tips seem to work better for me. Just be sure you don't drill into the fiberglass. A little practice makes it easy to get just the right 'touch'.

I ordered the snap cap set & the plastic washer set for a 13' Scamp & they came with sufficient #'s to do the entire trailer. Also ordered a couple dozen acorn nuts & rivets but the rivets I received didn't work as well as I wanted so I got some of a more appropriate size locally. I'm not sure but don't think you can order an entire set including rivets, cups, caps, & acorn nuts. I'd just order the cups & caps, & perhaps the acorn nuts; find the rivets locally after you've determined exact size(s) you need. If you don't do like me & put the extras some place you'll never find 'em again, any extra pieces can be stored for future use as needed.

[deryk]

Ok, since this is something Im going to eventually have to do, let me ask a question or 2...

Useing an acorn nut or a washer, is it just to spread the load out to make it a stronger connection...so I guess all the cabinetry should have one on it?

If you are working alone, I guess slide the rivet through the hole, go inside pop on an acorn nut go back outside and install the rivet? Do the acorn nuts stay on, or would I need to use a piece of duct tape or krazy glue or something to hold it till the rivet is installed?

Should you put some kind of sealant/calk on the rivet before you slide it in the hole?

Drilling out a rivet, just use a 1/8" bit in the center and it will release the old rivet?

thanks, havent used a rivet gun since junior high metal shop class lol... If you used a longer rivet would it expand more on the inside and not need an acorn nut?

thanks
deryk

[Taylor Kissinger]

I am in the process of replacing caps, some rivets and and plastic snap rings on my 12 yr old Scamp. I have had a couple other minor repairs. But after owning 5 trailers and 2 cab over Campers, My FGRV is hands down far more reliable and its minor repairs have been simple compared to the rotten roofs, floors and corners I had with all but one of my stickys. Just my take

[deryk]

Glad my ParkLiner is rivet free ( well the hinges for storage use rivets but nothing passing through to the outside) I looked at a scamp 16 that would have needed all the exterior rivets replaced...but found my ParkLiner and went with that!

[Perry J]

If anyone needs snap caps and and bases check with pro-dec.com

I bought all I needed for my 13' Scamp for about $2.00 more than just the shipping Scamp charges.
I ordered them on the evening of the 19th and they were in my mail box on the 23rd.

The sizes you will need are 8/8-100 for the curtain rod rivets and 12/12-100 for the larger rivets.
The bases are sold seperately 8/8 FB and 12/12-FBA.

John

[Perry J]

Today was the day to rerivet and replace every missing snap cap and remove and reseal the jalousie windows
There aren't any caps so every rivet has to be replaced.
My helper didn't show up so I had to figure a way to rivet and hold the Acorn nuts on the inside.

I ended up using crazy glue to glue the rivet in place.
Then I put a small amount of silicone caulking in the Acorn nut and slipped it on the rivet. It worked very well.

Hope this helps.

John

[floyd]

Originally Posted by deryk

Glad my ParkLiner is rivet free ( well the hinges for storage use rivets but nothing passing through to the outside) I looked at a scamp 16 that would have needed all the exterior rivets replaced...but found my ParkLiner and went with that!

I have owned and worked on countless Scamps and have never seen one which needed more than a few rivets replaced after harsh use, I have however seen rotten wood inside the cabinet supports of trailers which used that method for attachment points.

I have seen the Parkliner and I think it is a fine trailer. It is, of course, new.
Several of my Scamps were over thirty years old with solid integrity and tight rivets. The unwarranted attacks on "through the hull" attachment points, won't improve the integrity or build quality of those using other forms of attachment.

My Scamp is nine years old at this point, and barring accident, I invite you to share a fiberglass rally with us nine years from now. We can then compare notes and trailer condition. I'll still be willing to consider it an even comparison with my Scamp at twice the age of the Parkliner.
If you take care of your trailer, we will simply both be espousing the wonderful merits and longevity of FIBERGLASS around the campfire.
See you then, I hope!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Perry J

Today was the day to rerivet and replace every missing snap cap and remove and reseal the jalousie windows
There aren't any caps so every rivet has to be replaced.
My helper didn't show up so I had to figure a way to rivet and hold the Acorn nuts on the inside.

I ended up using crazy glue to glue the rivet in place.
Then I put a small amount of silicone caulking in the Acorn nut and slipped it on the rivet. It worked very well.

Hope this helps.

John

Not sure about the early Bigfoots,... but early Scamps, Ecos,LoveBugs,etc, were assembled without the use of the decorative snapcaps. In fact there is one small drawback to the snapcaps. They are not UV protected. It is wise to spend about $9 every 5-10 years to replace the caps and preserve the bases. I've done mine once before I had indoor storage. It took about 20 minutes. Less time and money than a single wax job.

[Bonnie01]

I also didn't/still haven't worked with rivets. But if you go on 'Youtube' you will be surprised at the little learning video's they have. Try it.

Good Luck to all of us

[Perry J]

I think you're correct Floyd.
I replaced every rivet on the trailer and there was no indication of any snap cap washers.

[Loren G. Hedahl]

I always figured the reason the factory used pop-rivets was to keep the cost down. I had one rivet at the top rear corner of the bathroom that still leaked after a second replacement -- so I replaced it with 1/4-20 stainless steel screw, washers and nut liberally coated with a sealant. It never leaked after that but looked kind of ugly.

Later, about 10 years ago, I made it a day's project to replace all the rivets with stainless steel. This time instead of using a sealer under the washers I used shop-made rubber washers.

The washers were thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch rubber hydraulic hose. I set up a stop on a band saw set up with a fine tooth blade. At first I had a problem with the rubber squirming during the cut. That problem was corrected by inserting a sacrificial wooden dowel into the hose.

Replacing one rivet at a time was a little slow, but that way there was no shifting of the panel. It was "drill out the old rivet with an 1/8 inch drill, remove the head with a chisel, punch out the remainder with a punch, redrill the hole to 1/4 inch, clean the area around the rivet head with scotch brite, insert new hardware from the outside, go inside the trailer and install the new inside hardware and tighten with a 7/16 long socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet."

With the holes drilled exactly the size of the hardware, as I would begin tightening, the rubber washers would compress against the screw and keep it from turning. I was able to do them all without assistance.

Not many would go to that extent, but I had recently retired and just decided it was a good thing to do to improve my time For some reason I just love that little trailer. I suffer some from insomnia. When that happens I just quietly pack up and finish the night in the trailer, usually sleeping like a baby. I know -- kinda crazy. But it works for me! :>)

[chse]

I just replaced all the rivets of a 13' scamp with a helper. He was mot helpfull to prevent the rivet from spinning when drilling it out but also to put the acorn nut on before tightening the rivet?

Could I have tightened the rivet first and then screw the nut on?

[Harvey]

Originally Posted by chse

I just replaced all the rivets of a 13' scamp with a helper. He was mot helpfull to prevent the rivet from spinning when drilling it out but also to put the acorn nut on before tightening the rivet?

Could I have tightened the rivet first and then screw the nut on?

I've tried it both ways. Screwing the acorn nut on afterwards has never worked very well for me... Mostly I've just dispensed with the acorn nuts entirely. They're a nice trim item but not necessary for function.

[StacyJayT]

Hello,

I have a 79 Scamp that has about 5 rivet leaks. Do you guys think I should replace them with rivets or bolts? I was thinking stainless steel bolts, but just found that stainless steel rivets exist. Any pros or cons for either choice?

Thanks, Stacy

[Jared J]

Some have successfully used stainless screws, others think they could damage the fiberglass and prefer to keep the aluminum rivets as the weak point.

I tend to agree with the aluminum rivet side, but have used stainless hardware for the stronger connections like the awning, etc.

Personally, get yourself some new rivet caps and aluminum rivets, put a bit of butyl tape on the back of the cap, and you're good.

[papa-t]

I just went through all my rivets; checking and replacing any that were loose or looked in need of replacing. I drilled out the old, Put a little 50yr flexible caulking in/around the hole. Inserted the new rivet and clear gasket/cap holder. The hard thing is needing someone to be inside to hold the acorn nut when drilling and replacing. My DW got volunteered for that job. I also removed old caulking at roof vents on top and re-caulked with RV Lap sealant.