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Old 09-04-2015, 12:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
You can also order Pop-Rivets with larger diameter heads. I use those with regular RV putty under them for sealing and a dab white marine paint on top to seal the pin hole and cover everything.
Thanks, Bob. That's exactly what I was thinking. Someone here advised against it (can't remember their reasoning now), but glad to hear it has worked for you.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:02 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Zennifer View Post
New to rivets....
Jes, also see http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...sue-71397.html
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:09 PM   #23
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One replaces tires because they wear and/or deteriorate beyond use and one reseals windows (hopefully before they start leaking), and redoing rivets and caps is just a part of the joy of ownership of some FGRV's. It's the cost of Love, get over it! LOL



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Old 09-04-2015, 12:45 PM   #24
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Yes! That's why I'm attempting to learn!

Picture 5 is the one that looks like it may have a plastic washer underneath? It's not loose, but thre is something betweeen in and the fiverglass. I'll check inside and see what's going on...it's holding the lower galley cabinet on.

Ill definitely check out that thread.

How do it determine a rivetneeds replaced, aside from leaking?
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:47 PM   #25
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And....seeng as how I have two different window attachments...which is original? Should I redo each as they are, or convert both to the same? (I need to rebuild one, and plan on pulling and dealing both)
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
a That's one of the very threads that sparked my "I. Don't know what the hell I'm reading about!"
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Old 09-04-2015, 02:40 PM   #27
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I have so e evidence that there are plastic washers unde at least the biggest ones. Do I need to replace then and add the snap caps?
If you want to put a snap cap on it when you are done, yes, you have to replace the cup or washer, whatever you call it, when you replace the rivet.

I have two or three that look like yours on the top of my trailer. The caps came off last winter and the plastic washer has since deteriorated to the point there is nothing left to attach a cap to. One is very slightly loose and may be seeping a slight amount of moisture, so I need to deal with it before this winter. No fault of Scamp- I procrastinated replacing the snap caps.

As I mentioned, though, I am thinking about replacing them without washer or snap cap like Bob described.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:13 PM   #28
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Picture #5 does look like it might have had a cup for a snap cap under it. The outer cap takes the beating from the sun and rain, will need to be popped off from time to time as they get that chalky look of old white plastic patio chairs. But the cup under it provides a bit of a seal (I added a wafer of butyl tape too) and does not degrade as fast since the outer cap is protecting it.

Windows look like someone replaced rivets with screws. Might be stainless steel judging from the lack of rust and corrosion. Notice the screw inside the snap on the window frame is very rusted. Aluminum and steel react with each other and accelerate corrosion (rust/oxidation).

Picture #4 That metal snap on the window frame is like the ones that hold vinyl covers on the back of pickup trucks. Could also be used for a strap or holder or anything else that could be attached with a snap. If you have an awning rail I might suspect a bag awning was involved.

Picture #2 looks like something was spilled or spread there, maybe to seal the rivet that was leaking?

Rivets vs. Screws debate has been going on for a long, long time. Some claim the Neanderthals were on the losing side of that debate in Europe but the evidence is not conclusive so for now it is just a theory.

I have a 77 scamp and there was no sign of snap caps ever being used, and I know enough of the back history of it to make me think they were never installed. However they are now. I figured as I replaced all the rivets I could do it the "newer" way and probably gain an additional water barrier.

There are places where it is just infinitely easier to use blind (pop) rivets. They are intended to be installed from one side into a space you are "blind" to. You don't need to be able to see, or reach the other side to put a nut on, this alone makes them useful. Want to take your couch out to work on the wiring and floor? Couch attaches to the kitchen cabinet with rivets, short of taking the fridge out you have to use rivets to make that connection.

My feeling on rivets is that in those iconic pictures of the guys building the Empire State building and other sky scrapers the round things in the beams holding it all together are rivets, different style & material but... rivets. I removed and replaced rivets still doing their job after 35 years so I guess they work. Not the only solution of course, and my curtain rod brackets are attached with machine screws so I could use small brass acorn nuts that matched the brackets.

Your windows probably leak, it would be a little surprising if after this long the butyl tape they are bedded into as a seal between the window and the FG shell was still sealed. On the other hand those screws might mean someone already did that job. Look at the where the wall joins the floor around the edges. Most leaks the water ends up there eventually. Water runs down wall / furnishings then collects at the low point at the edge. Or at back side of wheel wells. Depends on if trailer is tilted nose up or nose down, and any left to right slope.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:19 PM   #29
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I'm not sure of this lacking any real scale to determine screw size but those screws in the window frame might have a thicker shaft than the stock rivet. Could have been an adaption to drilling out old rivet and having a hole too large for the stock rivet to grip.

Just a thought that might explain the screws there while other places are still rivets.

Oh and white liquid electrical tape can be dabbed on a rivet as a short term seal. Lasts 6 months or so around here and seals things until you get around to replacing them. Big box stores will have liquid electrical tape, white matches pretty well.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
...I've heard arguments as to how jets utilize so many rivets without problems....umm...but they dont put snap caps on them either.
If jets regularly drove on North American highways, they'd probably have occasional rivet issues, too!
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:15 PM   #31
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.....
Well thought out and written reply Roger.. thanks.

Rosie would be proud of you



PS.. I still doubt that the caps help prevent leaks to any measurable degree but I could be wrong.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #32
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I just bought a 2001 16' Scamp this past weekend. All the snap caps need to be replaced. I can use a fingernail and chip off the washer, they are so brittle. I have 2 questions:
1 - if I leave the rivets exposed (maybe smear a little clear goop in the hole in the end of each one) will they be waterproof provided the washer is still under the rivet
2 - has anyone replaced the rivets with waterproof white rivets like used on boats so you wouldn't need the caps at all? (I'm not sure if they make white rivets or not...)
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:50 AM   #33
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Rivet 101? What am I looking at?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveZimmerman View Post
I just bought a 2001 16' Scamp this past weekend. All the snap caps need to be replaced. I can use a fingernail and chip off the washer, they are so brittle. I have 2 questions:

1 - if I leave the rivets exposed (maybe smear a little clear goop in the hole in the end of each one) will they be waterproof provided the washer is still under the rivet

2 - has anyone replaced the rivets with waterproof white rivets like used on boats so you wouldn't need the caps at all? (I'm not sure if they make white rivets or not...)

Thanks,

Steve


If you choose door #1, I suspect the washers will eventually deteriorate further, break out from underneath the rivet head, and you'll end up with a loose, leaking rivet.



Regarding door #2, see posts #16-18.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:13 AM   #34
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Thanks Jon. My thought on #1 is temporary and replace as needed with hopefully door #2. I was just wondering more so if anyone had used white rivets and it they are worth it or better just using the silver one's and a bit of white (or off white) marine paint.
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