Maintenance & Restoration

BOBSMITH · 04-21-2013, 09:23 PM

What rivet gun and what rivets do I need to replace rivets on my 2002 Casita? I've been told to remove the old rivets with a 3/8" drill bit. Right?

All help appreciated.

Perry J · 04-21-2013, 10:17 PM

I don't know about Casita but Scamp uses 3/16th dia. rivets.
I use a 3/16 bit.

Don W. · 04-22-2013, 05:27 AM

There are different size rivets in the casita's depending on the location. I just bought a rivet gun from home depot and it works fine.

But the size of the rivet depends on the location. I called Casita, asked them to send me an assortment of rivets, caps, etc and it was here in a couple of days.

Then you can see the rivet you want to replace, match it with the new rivet casita sent you, use a drill bit guide to size things up, and then have fun.

I wasn't able to find the right size and diameter of rivets in the stores so I just called casita, the parts were not overpriced or anything and it was good to know I had all the proper sizes.

Enjoy

GMike A · 04-22-2013, 06:34 AM

I cut and pasted this from another thread on Rivets.
"You can also order enough caps and bases from Pro-Dec.com for the about the price of ONLY the shipping from Scamp. It cuts the price almost in half."

Pro-Dec: Manufacturer of Screw Covers, Screw Caps & Snap-Caps®

Pro-Dec uses the mail and I received my order in 5 days.

Steve L. · 04-22-2013, 06:41 AM

While talking to Casita about something else, I mentioned rivets and replacing them. They told me to use a drill bit no more than 1/64 oversize. A 3/8 drill bit is HUGE. I believe most of the rivets are 3/16 but there may be 1/8 in there somewhere.

I have a 1/2" wide chisel I don't care much about and that I've softened the corners of, that I sometimes use to shear off the head of the rivet. It's use depends on whether I can get the flat side of the chisel flat against the wall so that I don't score the wall. That leaves me the hole pretty much as Casita drilled it and I can test rivets in it.

The chisel thing only works on aluminum rivets. I wouldn't use it on stainless steel rivets or stainless shank rivets.

GMike A · 04-22-2013, 06:52 AM

I guess we all have different methods. I use an over size SHARP drill and just lightly hold down on the head and it cuts through it and the head spins right off and leaves only the body down in the hole. I can then go back with the correct size drill and go down through the body. You can tell a good riveter when the shaft is not there and you can drill it right out. Those where the pull pin were snapped off are bears to get out. JMHO

fusedlight · 04-22-2013, 08:29 AM

I'm glad I saw this... as I strip the Cat Fur off the Scamp I am seeing a TON of missing rivet spots.

Thanks for the links!

Thomas G. · 04-22-2013, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMike A

I guess we all have different methods. I use an over size SHARP drill and just lightly hold down on the head and it cuts through it and the head spins right off and leaves only the body down in the hole. I can then go back with the correct size drill and go down through the body.........

My technique, also. You need to watch carefully for the top to separate, then pull back on the drill.

Carol H · 04-22-2013, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fusedlight

I'm glad I saw this... as I strip the Cat Fur off the Scamp I am seeing a TON of missing rivet spots.

Thanks for the links!

Gary, the link Scamp Rivet Size List will help you. Scamp also uses different sizes/lengths on their trailers. Found that one of the sizes was hard to find locally without having to buy a really big box of them that I will never use up. Scamp sells a bag of all the sizes and number of them you will need to replace all of rivets on the trailer and the price is pretty good. You can also get from Scamp a bag of all the different sized snap caps and plastic cap holders they use as well.

Ron in BC · 04-22-2013, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMike A

I guess we all have different methods. I. JMHO

Looks like that's true. I've never use an oversize drill or a chisel. For an 1/8" pop rivet I use an 1/8" drill bit. Most of the time the deed is done in seconds. For the odd time when it's not working as usual I give the drill a little side-to-side wiggle and that usually does the trick.

What ever works for ya

Perry J · 04-22-2013, 11:05 AM

Scamp uses 3/16 diameter by 1/4" grip range and 3/8 to 1/2 grip range.
I used the 1/8 x1/2 on the curtain rod holder.
All sizes are available at Ace Hardware or Lowes for less than the prices of shipping from Scamp.
Same for the snap caps and Pro Dec.
The Pro Dec cap bases have a slightly larger hole so you don't have to force the rivet through them.

BOBSMITH · 04-23-2013, 10:34 AM

Thanks for the advice. Man...I've had a COMPLETELY different experience with Casita. No one there to help. They close at 4:00 pm. Constantly being put on hold. Hang ups. etc.

I'll try to find the stuff locally.

GMike A · 04-23-2013, 10:47 AM

When I went down there last week I saw Tim from parts on the phone, a salesman, Victor was doing a demo and I saw one admin. There might have been some mechanics in the shop doing work. That was it. They did approach and want to assist me as best as they could, that was not an issue for me. Tim finally was able to come over and talk to me and he was very helpful. Nice showroom and units on the floor.

Francesca Knowles · 04-23-2013, 10:51 AM

For those buying off-the shelf aluminum rivets, I advise to make sure you're getting those with aluminum mandrels- some are steel, and the itty bitty part that's left after installation will eventually bleed rust!

Per riveters:
I wimped out and bought an air-driven riveter as I find rivets over 1/8 inch hard to do with a hand riveter.

Francesca

GMike A · 04-23-2013, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

For those buying off-the shelf aluminum rivets, I advise to make sure you're getting those with aluminum mandrels- some are steel, and the itty bitty part that's left after installation will eventually bleed rust!

Per riveters:
I wimped out and bought an air-driven riveter as I find rivets over 1/8 inch hard to do with a hand riveter.

Francesca

I will have to make sure my mandrels are aluminum. I bought the Harbor Freight air-riveter with the 20% discount coupon for around $30 bucks. I fired it up and it works great on a test run. It seems pretty versatile but a bit bulky was the only negative so far.

KevinScamps · 04-23-2013, 01:11 PM

I replaced every rivet I could with stainless steel machine screws and nuts. They last longer and look much better.

Thomas G. · 04-23-2013, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinScamps

I replaced every rivet I could with stainless steel machine screws and nuts. They last longer and look much better.

Brace yourself for the onslaught of claims that rivets are mechanical fuses.

fusedlight · 04-23-2013, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Brace yourself for the onslaught of claims that rivets are mechanical fuses.

As in "they are designed to fail"? In my book, that's a "bug" not a "feature". Is it that the trailer flexes enough that a rivet will fail and not grunge up the skin of the trailer as the bolt fails. I'd just as soon use nice bolts, too.

Let the flame war begin!