Rivets, Acorn nuts, Rivnuts etc. - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-13-2007, 05:28 PM   #29
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Thus far in my partial redo of our inside(s) I have chosen to go S/S bolts with ni-lox nuts, maybe less chance of them backing off due to viberation(?)
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Old 05-14-2007, 12:59 AM   #30
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Right on Martin. That is basically what I have been trying to get across for some time now.
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Old 05-16-2007, 05:38 PM   #31
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I think you have convinced me and am going to give the stainless steel threaded a chance.... you put up a good argument.
Joe
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:51 PM   #32
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Hi. Old thread. But, I was wondering how the ss bolts have held up over time. I am considering this as an alternative to rivets for the cabinets.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:43 PM   #33
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Hi. Old thread. ...
Only nine years! LOL

More recent threads:
Bolts (screws) vs. rivets in Scamp repair?
Nuts n' bolts instead of rivets?
Rivets Bolts and Other Fasteners
Rivets or SS machine screws
Simple question about rivets and nuts

For what it's worth, I found that my Scamp, new in Sept. 2015, already had two bolts instead of rivets - straight from the factory. It seems that Scamp thinks they are OK, and in high stress locations, even necessary even though they are more trouble and more money.

A few caveats however. It would be easy to over tighten and damage the fiberglass. There are no torque values available to guide you. Also, the Acorn nuts appear to be a bad choice with bolts. Ny-lock nuts work better. After one of my acorn nuts on a bolt came loose, I ended up using a Ny-lock nut and the acorn nut on top of that since the bolt was long enough. Lastly, use marine quality stainless steel.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:34 AM   #34
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..or you could just get an acorn nut that has a nylon insert (nylock)
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:39 AM   #35
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..or you could just get an acorn nut that has a nylon insert (nylock)
Makes you wonder why Scamp used the standard acorn nut on the bolts in my trailer, one if which worked loose.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:35 AM   #36
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Probably because that's what they keep on hand. There's no reason to use pricier nylocks in their usual application as decorative covers for the rivet ends.

The real question is why Scamp used two bolts instead of rivets in your build. I'd guess something wasn't fitting quite right and rivets weren't holding. Instead of finding and fixing the fit problem, they just got a bigger hammer, so to speak.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:26 AM   #37
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..

The real question is why Scamp used two bolts instead of rivets in your build. I'd guess something wasn't fitting quite right and rivets weren't holding. Instead of finding and fixing the fit problem, they just got a bigger hammer, so to speak.
Well... it is in the roof of the larger fridge / microwave cabinet, so there is a lot of weight involved. So a stronger fastener kinda makes sense. The acorn nut on one side loosened only because the bolt was too long for it to snug down, but once I put the nylock nut on, things stayed solid on that side of the camper.

On the other side however, the bathroom wall separated from the shell a little when a rivet failed.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:13 PM   #38
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I do wonder whether Scamp does the same on all builds with that configuration. I haven't heard anyone else mention it, but it's the sort of thing that probably wouldn't get noticed unless there were an issue.
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:07 PM   #39
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I do wonder whether Scamp does the same on all builds with that configuration. I haven't heard anyone else mention it, but it's the sort of thing that probably wouldn't get noticed unless there were an issue.
See Yet another rivet question
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:10 PM   #40
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I am replacing all rivets with same size closed end aluminum rivets. The new rivets head changes shape on install; head cups hiding the 1/32 thick neoprene washer under head and they say are water tight to 500 psi. Doing rivets as each cupboard has the original paneling replaced and any repair that maybe needed.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:11 PM   #41
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When the factory drilled some the rivet holes in my 2003 Casita they held the drill at a 30 degree angle so the drill chuck would clear the cabinet face. When a screw is inserted through the exterior and interior holes the screw will not sit flush against the outside skin of the trailer. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to handle this issue?

One idea I have is to use a snap-cap base with a SS countersunk washer inside of it which would let the SS screw be at an angle then the snap-cap cover would cover up the screw and the installation would look consistent with the other rivets.

Tom
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:03 PM   #42
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On my Casita some of the existing rivet holes were drilled at an angle so a stainless steel screw sill not sit flush against the outside skin of the trailer. One of them is about a 30 degree angle. Any recommendations on how to handle this issue?

One idea I have is to use a snap-cap base with a SS countersunk washer inside of it which would let the SS screw be at an angle then the snap-cap cover would cover up the screw and the installation would look consistent with the other rivets.

Tom
First of all when you attempt this use a drill block guide to make sure the hole goes in straight as it is very difficult to eyeball such things.

You should be able to increase the hole size a very small fractional amount larger and get it straightened out without needing to increase the screw size. A new rivet will likely also expand to fit that very small diameter change. Drills come in numbered sizes as well as fractional sizes so look at a drill size chart and find that in between very small size increase that will do the trick. A good hardware store will sell those numbered drill bits as well as the standard fractional size bits. Most drill bit sets that home owners buy have large increases in size between the selections in those sets but there are bits that come in smaller fractional size increases between the selection of bits in those sets. So you can also try to find those missing fractional drill sizes that fit between.

Screws are threaded, those threads on the screw will eventually work that hole a little larger anyway. One of the rubber bonded stainless steel washers used with the screw will help keep that screw from moving over time because it will grip tightly to the surface instead of sliding around on a smooth surface.
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