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09-11-2013, 02:13 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcolby54
somewhere in this discussion was a reference to using a washer to "spread the load" on the back side of the rivet. You seem to indicate that the acorn is truly decorative, so what replaces the washer in "spreading the load"
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Nothing - just whatever the interior part is of the sandwich. For instance, my Boler cabinets are held up by small steel angle brackets - the rivet goes through the fiberglass and the bracket and the tail of the rivet is pulled against the bracket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcolby54
It seems that you could have both, a washer and then on top of that the acorn.
However the acorn appears to actually prevent the rivet from spreading out as it normally would, and thus having even less surface area holding the back side in place.
Or perhaps I am not visualizing the process correctly.
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I think you understand this well. If both a washer and an acorn nut cap are used, then I assume there must be a gap between them for the rivet body to swell into.
Since most - perhaps all - of my Boler's rivets are out of sight (such as in cabinets), I doubt I would bother with the acorn nuts if I were replacing any rivets.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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09-11-2013, 02:31 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: asdf
Trailer: asdf
Alabama
Posts: 346
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In the Scamp, the rivets (acorns) are in plain sight. Instead of curving the lip of the cabinet up behind (inside) the cabinet, they curve it out. Then they put the rivet through that, the rat fur and on out to the outside of the Scamp.
Probably easier to assemble that way but not so pretty as if they were riveted on the inside of the cabinet.
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09-11-2013, 02:42 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
Nothing - just whatever the interior part is of the sandwich. For instance, my Boler cabinets are held up by small steel angle brackets - the rivet goes through the fiberglass and the bracket and the tail of the rivet is pulled against the bracket.
...
Since most - perhaps all - of my Boler's rivets are out of sight (such as in cabinets), I doubt I would bother with the acorn nuts if I were replacing any rivets.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcolby54
In the Scamp, the rivets (acorns) are in plain sight. Instead of curving the lip of the cabinet up behind (inside) the cabinet, they curve it out. Then they put the rivet through that, the rat fur and on out to the outside of the Scamp.
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Perhaps I should note that my B1700 - like most but not all examples of this model - has wood (sticks and thin plywood) interior cabinets, not fiberglass. There's no lip on the back of the cabinets at all: one leg of the angle bracket is screwed to the cabinet side wall or bottom framing, while the other leg is riveted against the fiberglass shell. In this design, it's just about as easy and much nicer looking to put them inside the cabinet, and there is no fiberglass moulding challenge as there would be with an inward-turned lip.
I do understand the desire for a nice finish on the ugly end of an exposed rivet. Nuts and bolts (instead of rivets) would automatically achieve that, if acorn nuts were used... but that's a controversial choice.
I wonder if a decorative cap that slides on the rivet after it is installed, held on by a bit of adhesive, might be an option? The challenge is that the tail of a pulled rivet is irregular in shape.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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09-11-2013, 03:10 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
I wouldn't even momentarily consider replacing a rivet just because the nut fell off. Glue the nut on if you would like...
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Hummmm the rivet expands inside the acorn nut and should the nut break off normally one can just push the rivet through the fiberglass as the nut was what was holding it in place..... or at least on my Scamp thats the case.
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09-11-2013, 03:19 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcolby54
How did you mount that? I am not finding mounts that hang from above, rather they all seem to mount to the wall behind the tv. I am about to do something really ugly and crude.
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Here you go. The mount stays on the TV but its a simple click & slide off to take down. Purchased it online. The nice thing is you can hardly notice the TV mount section that is left when you take the TV down.
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09-11-2013, 03:24 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: asdf
Trailer: asdf
Alabama
Posts: 346
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Thanks!
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09-11-2013, 10:05 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Hummmm the rivet expands inside the acorn nut and should the nut break off normally one can just push the rivet through the fiberglass as the nut was what was holding it in place..... or at least on my Scamp thats the case.
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The rivet body expands in the nut but that doesn't pull the nut up against the part being held, so that had better not be what is holding anything in place.
In any case, if the rivet has actually snapped (rather than just the nut falling off) then of course the rivet needs to be replaced.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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09-11-2013, 10:11 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Has anyone tried putting a deep cap nut on the exposed end of a rivet after installation, rather than messing around with an acorn nut during installation? I've never used these this way... it's just an idea.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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09-12-2013, 05:12 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
The rivet body expands in the nut but that doesn't pull the nut up against the part being held, so that had better not be what is holding anything in place.
In any case, if the rivet has actually snapped (rather than just the nut falling off) then of course the rivet needs to be replaced.
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I was going to post this observation but Brian beat me to it. The nut doesn't snug the joint up the way a backing washer would. But it can (depending on how close the rivet OD is to the nut ID somewhat restrict the amount the rivet swells. The softer aluminum of the rivet "flows" between the threads in the nut. The next issue to consider is how tight the fiberglass hole is to the rivet's swollen OD. If you oversize the hole then loss of the nut can allow the rivet to pressed back out the hole because the nut restricted the amount of rivet swelling.
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09-12-2013, 09:48 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcolby54
Thanks!
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Your welcome. Its called a PDR Under Cabinet Mount. A bit pricey but the ease of use & aesthetics when the TV is not in place makes it worth it.
There is an old thread you may want to check out with lots of photos of other types of holders some for larger TV's as well: Television Mount
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