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09-10-2018, 11:07 AM
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#1
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Roof Strength?
Hi All,
Just a general question for the moment...
I'm curious how strong the roofs tend to be - as in can you walk on them?
I realize that the answer may be specific, but I have a Carefree and there is next to no info available on them....so thought I'd just check and see whether most makes can or cannot be walked on.
...of course if someone where knows Carefrees well - I'm all ears
Thanks in advance
Take care
-Bryan
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09-10-2018, 11:52 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Given the amount of flex that having my 14 year old daughter on the roof caused on my Trillium 4500, I would never get up there myself.
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09-10-2018, 11:56 AM
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#3
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
Given the amount of flex that having my 14 year old daughter on the roof caused on my Trillium 4500, I would never get up there myself.
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Thanks David!
I figured that might be the case - not a theory I wanted to test myself...hehe
So I'm curious how folks may do things like clean the roof (Carefrees have textured surface so long handled brushes don't always cut it - and I used fairly stiff bristles), or say work on or replace vents?
I'm betting "tall ladder" and "better brush" may be in the answers, but always nice to see if someone has a better mousetrap!
Thanks
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09-10-2018, 12:10 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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You're not suppose to walk on the tops of Scamps either. I had to work on my A/C and wound up making a suspended platform under my carport to sit on.
Here's how I did it if it might be of some help if you really need to work on the roof. This worked out VERY well.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57669497300691
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09-10-2018, 12:12 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,937
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yeah, I use a long handled hose brush and a ladder to clean the roof of ours. no way in heck I would subject that fiberglass to my 220 lbs.
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09-10-2018, 12:18 PM
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#6
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Thanks John!
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09-10-2018, 01:00 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,046
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the fiberglass shells are much too thin to be load bearing for a human body. But if you must have some support for your upper body then lean against it with the majority of your body weight being supported by a platform or ladder. Think of loads as in concentrated point loads versus widely distributed loads. Your feet are a point load, leaning your upper torso against the roof is a widely distributed load. The distributed load is the safer approach and less likely to cause a crack or small depression. The middle of the roof is much weaker than the area where the shell curves down to become the vertical walls. It is easy to test that strength just use your hand and push on the roof in the center, then push on the middle of a wall then push on that transitional curved area between the two.
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09-10-2018, 01:20 PM
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#8
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
You're not suppose to walk on the tops of Scamps either. I had to work on my A/C and wound up making a suspended platform under my carport to sit on.
Here's how I did it if it might be of some help if you really need to work on the roof. This worked out VERY well.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57669497300691
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Now that's a setup! Thanks for some idea Darral
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09-10-2018, 01:22 PM
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#9
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin
the fiberglass shells are much too thin to be load bearing for a human body. But if you must have some support for your upper body then lean against it with the majority of your body weight being supported by a platform or ladder. Think of loads as in concentrated point loads versus widely distributed loads. Your feet are a point load, leaning your upper torso against the roof is a widely distributed load. The distributed load is the safer approach and less likely to cause a crack or small depression. The middle of the roof is much weaker than the area where the shell curves down to become the vertical walls. It is easy to test that strength just use your hand and push on the roof in the center, then push on the middle of a wall then push on that transitional curved area between the two.
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Thanks k - I was curious about the structure beyond just the fiberglass shell - this helps/confirms some things
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09-10-2018, 03:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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09-10-2018, 03:59 PM
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#11
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Ohhhhhh that's not good - so much for the sticker on the front window...maybe life is not so good at that particular moment!
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09-11-2018, 10:28 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Lee
Trailer: Casita 17
South Carolina
Posts: 1
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Casita Roof
I was up on my 2017 Spirit Deluxe 17' roof to do some work and noticed no flex nor did I hear any cracks. I was hands and knees and not standing up. I think I did some research before getting up there, but never knew that roof damage could be a consequence.
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09-11-2018, 10:52 AM
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#13
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Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Carefree
British Columbia
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Olson
I was up on my 2017 Spirit Deluxe 17' roof to do some work and noticed no flex nor did I hear any cracks. I was hands and knees and not standing up. I think I did some research before getting up there, but never knew that roof damage could be a consequence.
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maybe just lucky I'm guessing mine was built a wee differently than yours....1975 and all - sides are fairly straight still, but do have some wavy spots - the roof has lots of waves though....that alone has kept me off as it just doesn't "look" like I could crawl around up there....so I won't!
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09-19-2018, 08:06 PM
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#14
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Member
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 4500
Kalifornia High Desert
Posts: 90
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I have a 1980 4500 trillium and a 2004 Damon Challenger class A 34 foot fiberglass motor home with rubber roof and use DICOR Rubber Roof Cleaner on both the trillium and Damon to clean the roofs and the fiberglass sides to get black streaks on the sides caused from water runoff and it is the only thing I have found to do a good job. They are also the maker of Self leveling lap sealant to use on the roof areas and it bonds better than silicone sealers and it is what the manufactures use on their roofs at seams and around roof waste vents, refrigerator vents and wire pass through locations. It comes in 6 colors. You can use butyl tape but it leaves a oily film over time and is a great sealer but to use it you have to sandwich it between two things that you are sealing. Lap sealant goes on the edge of whatever you are sealing and the roof.
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09-20-2018, 08:24 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,163
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roofs.....
FYI....Bigfoots 1500 series (starting in 89 or so) have very sturdy roofs....I get up on mine every spring and scrub away....no deflection....I'm almost 200lbs
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11-27-2018, 07:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Justus
Trailer: Currently Shopping
California
Posts: 291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
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Looking at this makes me hesitate to buy a trailer while we are in snow country. This weekend we had a lovely snow storm. One side of my car was covered in a frozen slush/snow mix, while the roof had accumulation of six inches of solid snow that I carefully scraped off as much as I could without scraping the paint. What would that do to a fiberglass trailer stored outside?
Driving back up from Indiana I saw RV lots still filled with uncovered RVs and it got me thinking about winter storage. If your trailer is in an uncovered lot, what additional precautions need taken during periods of snow? Do you visit it to brush it off? I'd hate to be gearing up for spring adventures and find a caved in roof like that.
I'd prefer to store indoors, but I just don't know that we'll have that option.
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11-27-2018, 07:14 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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If the owners of that trailer had removed structure, like a closet, cupboards and such, there is a good chance that that is the real cause of the collapsed roof.
If you are brushing snow off the roof, make sure to take care around vents and stacks in the roof as they become brittle with age.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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11-27-2018, 07:38 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus C
Looking at this makes me hesitate to buy a trailer while we are in snow country. ..
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A few more thoughts.. I am not an expert but I think that is an older Boler which has a thinner shell than most late model MFGRVs. For example, I would be less concerned with a later model Scamp that has the thicker roof to support the Air Conditioner.
If you will not be able to brush the snow off then some temporary internal bracing can be added.. 2x4's supporting plywood sheets on the inside of the roof for example.
I think this is a very rare occurrence. I recall hearing about this type of damage only a few times. And it took me a while to locate that photo. The original question was about walking on the roof.. where all of your weight is under the half a square foot or so of area under your feet. Thats a no-no.
Still, a carport that can support a snow load is a great thing to have.. and not just for snow.
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11-28-2018, 02:06 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,174
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That caved in roof Boler would be a great project.
Fixing it wouldn't be that big a deal.
Fred
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11-28-2018, 11:51 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2014 Lil Snoozy
North Carolina
Posts: 788
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You can walk on the roof of a Lil Snoozy
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