rust-o-lem enamel on fiberglass rv??? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-27-2013, 07:09 PM   #1
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Name: jim
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rust-o-lem enamel on fiberglass rv???

Girl friend has started to paint 13' scamper with rust-o-lem gloss oil base enamel with paint brush, will it stay on fiberglass, sanded with 220 wet, washed with soap and water, she has it looking like the partrige famly bus, defanetly different, just not sure it is the best paint to use on fiberglass. Give me your though , needs to be high gloss and be brushable!
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:37 PM   #2
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Rustoleum does make a marine paint and I have used it on fiberglass with great success... not sure how the regular version is.

Sorry

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Old 02-27-2013, 08:00 PM   #3
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Hopefully you can stop the painting project before to much damage is done. While she may like the results I can amost guarantee that 90% of future buyers won't be as enthralled.

As Deryk mentioned, there are marine paints designed for painting fiberglass.

I suggest that contact be made with the local marine supply house in your area for suggestions. And yes, marine paint costs more, but in less than one year you will know why if you don't use it.

I used Interlux Brightside marine paint on my Hunter Compact-II with excellent results. The application technique used is called "Roll & Tip" and you use a roller, followed up with light brushing. (Google it). The Interlux products cost a bit more, but I think that the results are worth the extra cost.
(BTW: Be sure to use the prescribed undercoat first)
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:15 PM   #4
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I've never used Rustoleum/Tremclad on fiberglass - well only on small areas - but others have and seem ok with it


Rustoleum Paint for Fiberglass?
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:53 PM   #5
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Yup Rustoleum boat paint...i used it to paint my boats waterline mark and side stripe...held up fine for 3 years till sandy destroyed the boat. Well time will tell


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Old 02-27-2013, 11:52 PM   #6
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Like this? It's held up well for 6 years. I've painted all sorts of fg stuff like canoes etc. with it and it works really well.

Good prep is the key to it staying on. I always wipe down with something called Tumbler. It removes any traces of silicone.

Roll and tip should work fairly well and give a pretty good finish for the cost.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:55 PM   #7
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Nice center cockpit! Yeah prep work is key for it to look good. Or pay through the nose for someone else to do it. My old marina the fiberglass guy charged $100 a foot to paint a boat.

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:28 AM   #8
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If you have to use cheap paint there is nothing better to use it on than fiberglass. Fiber glass is stable, doesn't absorb water unless submerged. scratches wont corrode and peel the paint. 220 grit sanding is a bit rough probably will show sand scratches through the paint, better to up the grit to 360-400 where you can. The rustolem oil base will last a very long time because its soft and will move with the fiberglass for a very long time. This also makes it vunerable to surface damage especially for the first year. Remember for the most part these trailers were waxed during their life time especilly in the early years when they were someone's pride and joy. so it is wise to use some wax and grease remover after you wash it and before you sand it then use it again before you actually paint the trailer. Paint doesn't stick to wax and sometimes sanding it doesn't remove it it just spreads the wax to a new spot. Its her trailer have fun with it maybe the more fun you have the more you will use it. Painting the trailer like this will hurt value to the general public but who knows there are alot of us old Partridge family fans. People wish for the old quirky family values from simpler times. This paint job will add as many smiles as frowns to the people who get it and those who dont. It wont be the worst money you ever thrown away. A happy lady is a good investment. My off road toys have alot of rustolem because its easy to apply and fix and cheap, plus lasts better than any other budget minded paints. Look up on the web people painting cars with the stuff by thinning it out and applying like varnish with alot of coats. Its amazing what can be done with it.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #9
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Not to be a carmadgeon (sp ?) on this topic, but consider the following:

1. The quality (?) of a cheap paint job will linger long after the sweetness of the few $$$ saved is forgotten.
2. There aren't really all that many Partridge fans still alive and;
3. Those that are, often don't have the cash to buy and will be looking for "cheap" because they think that a SCAMP is just another "old trailer" (Been there, Done that).

As you can tell, I am a fan of doing it right the first time, it's a lot cheaper than doing it right the second time.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:58 PM   #10
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Good reading on DIY fiberglass painting.
rustoleum boat paint - FiberGlassics® Forums - fiberglassics.com
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:49 PM   #11
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Good Info, but I noticed that many of the quotes said things like "I have seen SOME that came out great" etc.

Not wanting to get torpedoed by the boaters amoung us, and as the former owner of a 19' Reinell, boats seem to have a lot smaller amount of exposed areas, and almost no large flat areas, as do FGRV's, which will both be much more apt to show the results of a job that doesn't come out right.

I also noticed that there were several references to "Do it right" and they made mention of the right way being to use Interlux Brightside polymer coatings.

As Farmer Jack once said: "Some hay is cheaper because it has already been through the horse".

Nuff said

If there wasn't a good reason for using the Interlux product vs. the Rust-oleum products, they wouldn't be able to get the higher price that Brightside commands.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:23 AM   #12
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I do not recommend Interlux Bightside. That is a one part paint and will peel and a scratch off easily. Interlux Perfection is a two part paint. I lost reverse coming into the dock a few years ago and put my boat against a piling to slow down. The barnacles and tar made a horrid mess of my paint, but wiping down with acetone revealed only a few small scratches from the barnacles.

Two part paints are hard and last far longer Than one part paints and can be repainted years later with minimum prep. I'm reprinting my deck and topsides this spring, only because a hurricane did some damage and I want it to look perfect.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:37 AM   #13
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I can't say that much of the boating or RV world agrees with Interlux Briteside peeling or scratching all that easily. Mine seems as hard as rock and, with the use of proper preparation and Interlux primer undercoat, peeling isn't a known common problem either.

Now, if I was in the habit of scraping my FGRV agains docks, barnacles or even bigger trees, I might have a different outlook, but until then, I will continue to support the single part Briteside product, it's easy to use and, at last IMHO, gives excellent results.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:29 PM   #14
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I know that a two part urethane is harder but I painted our boler back in 2006 with three coats of Brightsides and the trailer still looks good. A coat of polish in the spring and the trailer shines. I've been happy with the product.
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