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08-11-2009, 02:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft / 2001 Toyota Tundra V8 2wd
Posts: 339
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I was cleaning the roof of some massive tree stains this weekend, but that's a whole other story. On my ladder if I leaned as far as I could I would just barely reach the middle seam of my Burro with a sponge. Eventually if I have to work on the vents and such, how does one do that. Is it safe to get on these fiberglass trailer roofs if I put down a piece of board to spread out my weight? That would be about 175 lbs.
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08-11-2009, 02:56 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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It's probably a gray area, but I wouldn't, personally. Why put the stress on the shell and possibly end up with stress cracks (or temporarily "warp" the opening for the hatch just as you're working on it).
I'd do something like have a ladder on either side (the type that set up like an "A," not the type you lean on the side of the camper) and then a plank across the middle. Safety first, of course.
That said, I have not had to work on a centered vent; I bet others will have some good ideas for setting up staging.
Raya
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08-11-2009, 04:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1960 28 ft Airstream
Posts: 336
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Quote:
It's probably a gray area, but I wouldn't, personally. Why put the stress on the shell and possibly end up with stress cracks (or temporarily "warp" the opening for the hatch just as you're working on it).
I'd do something like have a ladder on either side (the type that set up like an "A," not the type you lean on the side of the camper) and then a plank across the middle. Safety first, of course.
That said, I have not had to work on a centered vent; I bet others will have some good ideas for setting up staging.
Raya
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Nope...esp. not on a burro-the manual says not to do it-mine doesn't seem rigid enough!!!
Get an extension bar for your sponge-harder to scrub, but less likely to damage the trailer.
Pam
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08-11-2009, 04:13 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Burro
Posts: 220
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Quote:
I was cleaning the roof of some massive tree stains this weekend, but that's a whole other story. On my ladder if I leaned as far as I could I would just barely reach the middle seam of my Burro with a sponge. Eventually if I have to work on the vents and such, how does one do that. Is it safe to get on these fiberglass trailer roofs if I put down a piece of board to spread out my weight? That would be about 175 lbs.
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Get a couple ladders and a plank, get a scaffolding, get on a brick wall beside the camper, get a pole with a scrub brush,.......
heck get longer arms if you need to.......
but dont climb onto the roof unless you want a sunroof and a sore head.
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08-11-2009, 05:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Burro 17 ft Widebody
Posts: 868
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After years of contortions I cut a piece of plywood and attached some support pieces underneath shaped roughly according to the contour of the roof (not the center portion but the side part). Covered these runners with some thick, resilient foam rubber I had, attached a rope to both ends of the long inner edge and attached the ends to a couple of 4" C-clamps which I then attached to the frame with suitable wooden pads. Got some thick pipe wrap from Home Depot to slide along the ropes and cushion them at strategic points and ended up with a work platform which spread the weight out over a wide area.
Generally speaking I think the roof is strong enough but I don't like to find out what the limits are. If I can spread the weight well enough I'm considering putting a hot tub on the roof.
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08-11-2009, 06:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft / 2001 Toyota Tundra V8 2wd
Posts: 339
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I thought the roof had to be fairly strong, I mean there's a heavy air conditioner up there (though probably not as heavy as me ). Then when the antenna was stuck in the up position, I had my son inside cranking on it while I coaxed it down from the outside, and that roof flexed a whole lot just from the antenna going down. Which made me wonder if the roof really could support an adult persons weight.
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08-13-2009, 10:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
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Cut several 2 x 4's just the right length to support the roof from the inside. Also cut some plywood pads, approx 6 inches square to spread the ceiling load at the end of each 2 x 4. With these strategically placed under the area where you are working, the additional loading of your weight will be resolved by the floor.
Might not be a bad idea to set up some interior supports such as these for winter lay-up in areas where snow fall could cause a collapse of a roof.
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08-27-2009, 03:26 PM
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#8
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Member
Trailer: 1993 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 61
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On our 13' Scamp, the whole vent assembly (cover, screen, etc) looks like it will come out from the inside with the removal of a couple screws. This might be the better option for a thorough cleaning of it.
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08-27-2009, 04:21 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Quote:
On our 13' Scamp, the whole vent assembly (cover, screen, etc) looks like it will come out from the inside with the removal of a couple screws. This might be the better option for a thorough cleaning of it.
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Then you could reach through the vent hole and scrub that way. Is it a 14 x 14 vent?
Or you could get a car wash brush:
http://www.autobarn.net/8bruswittelh.html
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