Scamp 13 Fresh Water Tank - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-13-2015, 09:31 AM   #1
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Name: Lyle
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Scamp 13 Fresh Water Tank

Been trying to check out the very simple fresh water system on my "new" 1999 Scamp 13. The previous owner, who had it for 8 years, said that he had never used the tank. I think I would like to have the option.

The hand pump operates freely and sounds like it is pumping air, so it probably will work. The clear water line, as much of it as I can see, looks pretty nasty, but my experience with other groady water lines is that a bleach solution does wonders for cleaning them up and out.

The problem I've run into, is that access to the water line connection to the holding tank is virtually impossible to see or even feel. I would like to be able to check this connection for leaks when I test out the system.

Is there a solution to this dilemma short of removing the dinette half holding the water tank or is that the only way to actually test it for integrity?
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:49 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by LyleB View Post
Been trying to check out the very simple fresh water system on my "new" 1999 Scamp 13. The previous owner, who had it for 8 years, said that he had never used the tank. I think I would like to have the option.

The hand pump operates freely and sounds like it is pumping air, so it probably will work. The clear water line, as much of it as I can see, looks pretty nasty, but my experience with other groady water lines is that a bleach solution does wonders for cleaning them up and out.

The problem I've run into, is that access to the water line connection to the holding tank is virtually impossible to see or even feel. I would like to be able to check this connection for leaks when I test out the system.

Is there a solution to this dilemma short of removing the dinette half holding the water tank or is that the only way to actually test it for integrity?
Yes, for complete access to the tank you want to remove the wood platform under the dinette pads. Back out the screws all around the edges and it lifts off.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:59 AM   #3
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Yes, for complete access to the tank you want to remove the wood platform under the dinette pads. Back out the screws all around the edges and it lifts off.
Two things you should be aware of. One the OP's trailer is a 13' not a 16" Second it sounds like it's a standard rather than a deluxe. No wood in a Standard. So your description is pretty meaningless.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #4
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To have full access the bench on the curb side will have to be removed. When you remove the cushion you see some screws. I'm not sure you can see them all or not.

If it was me I go through the "new tank sanitation procedure" and then wait and see. If there's a leak where the vinyl tubing connects to the tank it should be pretty obvious before any damage is done. A little water one time isn't going to do any permanent damage.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #5
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It is not difficult to service the entire cold water system without disassembling the furniture, even if you wanted to replace the waterline completely. It is routed around the perimeter and goes under a flap in the carpet at the back wall between the benches.
You can use Tygon tubing if you don't want to the expense or effort of Pex, since you would then have only one connection at the pump and one at the tank. Shore water is of course a separate system with its own faucet.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:21 AM   #6
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How can you get to the connection of the line to the tank without removing the bench? I cannot even get my hand down to where I believe the connection must be. I can get to the overflow, drain and fill connections to feel them, but not the actual water line.

I assumed the water line was under the carpet flap, but once it enters the curb side bench, I cannot see how you could hook it to the tank (or unhook the old line) without removing the bench. Am I missing something? I know you have much experience with these.


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It is not difficult to service the entire cold water system without disassembling the furniture, even if you wanted to replace the waterline completely. It is routed around the perimeter and goes under a flap in the carpet at the back wall between the benches.
You can use Tygon tubing if you don't want to the expense or effort of Pex, since you would then have only one connection at the pump and one at the tank. Shore water is of course a separate system with its own faucet.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:27 AM   #7
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To have full access the bench on the curb side will have to be removed. When you remove the cushion you see some screws. I'm not sure you can see them all or not.

If it was me I go through the "new tank sanitation procedure" and then wait and see. If there's a leak where the vinyl tubing connects to the tank it should be pretty obvious before any damage is done. A little water one time isn't going to do any permanent damage.

Thanks Byron, this may be the route I go, see how things clean up before removing the bench. The water line is kinda nasty looking though, but I've seen them clean up with some bleach - good thing about having the transparent lines.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:32 AM   #8
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I once attempted to fix a wiring issue by not removing the rear dinette seat. I did it eventually but not without a lot of pain & it took much longer than it should have .... ended up with bruises all over my arms from having them pressed up hard against the opening of the fiberglass bench. The next time I had to fix something inside a rear bench I removed the bench and it made making the repair much easier and faster.
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Old 11-13-2015, 12:10 PM   #9
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I’m with Carol, much easier to remove the bunks and also learn about the layout of the trailer at the same time. It is not likely that there would be any leaks as the line is not under pressure and I wouldn’t mess trying to clean the old grungy one.

There are some screws along the top edge of the bunk, and also inside along the strip on the floor. When you have found them all, the bunk can be removed very easily. If not, you haven't found and removed all the screws.

Also, there are some metal clips that hold the water hose around the edge of the trailer. You will have to bend them back or break them off to remove the hose if they are rusted. They don’t have to be replace if broken as the hose will pretty much lay where it needs to be.

Remove the hose and take it to a hardware store and tell them you want the same inside diameter, clear hose.

You will also learn that the shut off valve on the fresh water tank is “backwards”. When in crosswise position, it is Open, when it is facing forward, it is “Closed”.

It’s easier to also check the taillight wiring at that time, as well as run any new wiring you may want to run to the closet for additional lights or 12v plug-in, etc.

Jim
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:47 PM   #10
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There are some screws along the top edge of the bunk, and also inside along the strip on the floor. When you have found them all, the bunk can be removed very easily. If not, you haven't found and removed all the screws.



Jim

How do you get your hand or a screwdriver anywhere close to the screws on the floor, next to the tank? My arm does not bend into "S" shapes very well. Plus are all the screws counter suck so low that they virtually disappear into the wood? Someone has marked their locations on the inside of the bench with black marker arrows, but I still can't get a hand close to them with the tank in the way.

Must just be me, but I'm not seeing this as an easy thing to do. What is the secret?
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:19 PM   #11
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It is best if you use a cordless electric drill with a long-shank phillips head driver inserted in it. Slide it between the bunk and the water tank and press down hard with the other hand. You don't want to strip the head.

The first time you take them out they are more difficult, and then don't drive them as deep when you re-insert them.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:53 PM   #12
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OK,

I posted some photos on the SOI site and Greg has confirmed that my tank is super-sized, so leaves no room to get your hand in to remove the screws. It isn't just me being non-mechanical. :-)

Removing Water Tank: 13' Scamp | Scamp Owners International

Thanks everyone, I may be back for more advice if I decide to go ahead and tackle this. Might just live with it the way it is, at least until nicer weather - I don't have an inside shop.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by LyleB View Post
How can you get to the connection of the line to the tank without removing the bench? I cannot even get my hand down to where I believe the connection must be. I can get to the overflow, drain and fill connections to feel them, but not the actual water line.

I assumed the water line was under the carpet flap, but once it enters the curb side bench, I cannot see how you could hook it to the tank (or unhook the old line) without removing the bench. Am I missing something? I know you have much experience with these.
the water outlet on a Scamp13 is normally located at the front of the tank which can be accessed from above by removing the plywood cover on the benchtop. I have replaced all the lines on these trailers without removing the bench including the filler line at the back.
You could cut the plumber's tape (or sygnode type straps) on the top of the tank which would allow you to move the tank around and make whatever connections needed, then you could reconnect the straps with wire or small nuts and bolts when finished.
Another idea would be to get a picture frame of the right size, trace the glass onto the fiberglass on the vertical part of the bench (either on the 45 or on the straight part) cut out the tracing and place the fiberglass piece into the picture frame , replacing the glass. This now makes a perfect access door which can be used for additional storage as well as checking water level in the tank when the project is finished.
Of course it is not that difficult to remove the bench and replace it if that is your first choice.

The picture below is of this type of access door on my 13D but the principle is the same...
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scamp pictures 020.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:20 PM   #14
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I once attempted to fix a wiring issue by not removing the rear dinette seat. I did it eventually but not without a lot of pain & it took much longer than it should have .... ended up with bruises all over my arms from having them pressed up hard against the opening of the fiberglass bench. The next time I had to fix something inside a rear bench I removed the bench and it made making the repair much easier and faster.
I have completely rewired nearly every older Scamp which I have owned and had no real difficulty, but then I was a fleet mechanic who also built and restored old cars for decades.
Laying across a cushion in a well lit heated garage to wire a Scamp is a real luxury compared to climbing up under a filthy 990 CAT in a coke pit with a flashlight, in 25 below zero chill factor winds at midnight!

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