Scamp bearing maintenance - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-02-2010, 09:45 AM   #15
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I guess my reason to do it was a combo of some of your suggestions: basically I don't know of a shop nearby to do this (although there must be plenty here in the SF Bay Area), and I do like to be self-sufficient and know how it works. Also, the Scamp is parked on the side of a very narrow twisty one-lane road above our house and on semi-uneven ground and not perfectly level, so I didn't really feel so comfortable having it up on two jack stands with both wheels off at the same time while I took the hubs into a shop. I only had the evenings after work this week to do it, and figured if I'm taking the time to remove the wheels and replace the brakes, I might as well just throw the new bearings in too.

Anyway, I got it all done last night - the right side was very easy after getting familiar with the left. Today after work I'll take it for a quick ride to test out the new brakes and adjust the brake controller if necessary.

Saturday morning we leave for four days in the Sierras - I'll let you know if any wheels fall off!!
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:37 PM   #16
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I always replace the bearings and races as a set. While it is probably OK to put a new bearing on an old race, I just figure that since they were made as a set, I should install them as a set.

Then, unless the old bearing is toast -- I clean and pack the old bearing ready to install and stick it in a zip-lock bag along with a cotter pin of the correct size. You never know when having it along in your stash might just save the day.

To get the old race out just use a round flat punch and tap around the edge of the race. It might take circling around a time or three, but eventually it will come out. The groove is always more shallow than the thickness of the race. Sometimes there is some axial grooves to make punching the race out easier, but our Scamp didn't have them.

I'm not convinced that packing the void with grease would cause an overheating problem with the bearing. Of course I don't know everything, but almost everything!!! :>) On my Scamp I have Bearing Buddys installed and overheating has never been a problem.

Heat either is the result of the loss of lubrication or a pre-load too high. Your axle manufacturer will give you their method of obtaining proper preload.

If that is not available, I torque the bearing nut to about 50 ft lb, then back off at least one fourth turn, or until the cotter pin fits. Then I test-turn the wheel. It should turn easily. If not, back off the nut until the next hole lines up for installing the cotter pin. That may not be entirely kosher, but is the method many shade tree mechanics use.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
It was never my intention to infer that bearing servicing was above anyone's intelligence level. I apologize if anyone felt that way.
There are many things we can do, and screw up, on our trailers that will not cost us a lot of money, just a little labor to do it over again.
When one doesn't know where a seal goes does not mean he's stupid. It means he has no knowledge of the subject of wheel bearings.
Improperly serviced bearings can cost hundreds of dollars. Adjust them to tight and they will build up heat and burn the grease and cost you fuel. To loose and they will wobble and damage the bearings and you have chunks of steel in your grease. In both instances your chance of ruining the spindle and needing a new axle is very great.
If you do a survey of our members you will probably find that when a bearing goes out it's in the middle of the night and a hundred miles from anywhere. Never near home!
Unless you have Good Sam other specific RV road side service plan you are going to be out a good deal of money.
Probably the worst thing is the wife and kids are going to be upset by a ruined trip.
Wheel bearings will go for years when properly serviced and are the most maintenance free item on our trailers.
Why do it yourself when you have no experience and take a chance of costing yourself hundreds, maybe thousands, of dollars and a ruined trip.
I have refurbished 5 or 6 Scamps, 2 Bolers, 3 Trillium 4500 and 1 13' U-haul in the last 5 years. I can do almost everything there is to do on a travel trailer.
I am leaving on a 3500 mile trip next week and my 16' Scamp has an appointment at a local shop to have the bearings repacked tomorrow.
Why save $40.00 and possibly cost yourself a thousand?

John
Here's why....
I called the local RV shop the other day and asked what they charged to repack the bearings on a 2200# Dexter axle, They quoted $175 per axle!
For a job that requires elementary mechanical skills and literally costs pennies in material, $300 an hour seems a little steep! that is not to mention the things that they might "find wrong" in the process!
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:16 AM   #18
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A person is a fool for going to an RV shop for almost anything on a travel trailer!
I just paid a reputable local auto repair shop $40.00 to clean and repack the bearings on my trailer. It's an 03 16' Scamp and has the grease fittings on the axles. The right side was running extremely hot. Your $175.00 RV shop would probably have squirted some grease in the fittings and laughed at me for being a sucker.
As I said before it does not take any super intelligence to pack bearings.
I have an injured wrist so I couldn't do the job myself this time and $40.00 is cheap when you consider the time and mess.
I made the original suggestion to Wilder because from his first post one could only surmise he new absolutely nothing about wheel bearings.
So you may excuse me all to hell for trying to save a newbie some trouble.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
A person is a fool for going to an RV shop for almost anything on a travel trailer!
I just paid a reputable local auto repair shop $40.00 to clean and repack the bearings on my trailer. It's an 03 16' Scamp and has the grease fittings on the axles. The right side was running extremely hot. Your $175.00 RV shop would probably have squirted some grease in the fittings and laughed at me for being a sucker.
As I said before it does not take any super intelligence to pack bearings.
I have an injured wrist so I couldn't do the job myself this time and $40.00 is cheap when you consider the time and mess.
I made the original suggestion to Wilder because from his first post one could only surmise he new absolutely nothing about wheel bearings.
So you may excuse me all to hell for trying to save a newbie some trouble.
Geesh... struck a nerve, sorry, I meant no offense, merely sharing another perspective....
Forty dollars is cheap, local shops around here charge $80 labor [min1 hr]
With "EZ Lube" disassembly is only needed when checking or servicing the brakes anyway. I have never outsourced automotive work , with the exception of tires, but I just called around about the wheel bearings for someone who was concerned about it and lived too far away to come here.
U-Haul used sealed bearings on their rental trailers, which apparently are pretty good. My U-Haul car dolly was taken out of service and sold to my father-in-law back in the late eighties. I have rebuilt the platforms, wiring ,paint etc,even repaired a cracked frame, but the bearings are still good after more than thirty years of hard use.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:16 AM   #20
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Floyd,
Please accept my apologies.
I was upset about something not even remotely related to your post and took it out on you.
Again, please accept my apologies.
John
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:30 AM   #21
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Once I had a front brake cylinder stick on a early 70's Chevy pickup on a trip to another state. I could have fixed it myself on the road, but decided to take it to a brake shop.

I watched the guy do the job from a distance and was amazed when he didn't used the truck's hydraulics to push the stuck piston out, but did it on the bench with compressed air and nothing to retain the piston from becoming a missile when it blew out! I knew then that this guy had never done this job before!

Even the boss, when he came out of his office to see what all the commotion was about was completely unperturbed.

That's one of the main reasons I like to do things such as wheel bearing packing myself. It just seems it gets done correctly that way. Take it to a shop and you never know . . . . .
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:27 AM   #22
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Floyd,
Please accept my apologies.
I was upset about something not even remotely related to your post and took it out on you.
Again, please accept my apologies.
John
Smilies not withstanding, this is a difficult medium to convey intent. It is I who should apologize for my inability to convey my attitude with my message. I certainly took no offense and meant none.
When writing on here and other places I am reminded of what Paul said about an even more important relationship...

"For now we see through a glass, darkly;but then face to face: now I know in part; but then shall I know even as also I am known."

These conversations work much better around a campfire at a ScampCamp or fiberglass rally.

I admonish each person entering MFROG to enter expecting to be among friends subject as much as possible to the following quote....

A friend is one to whom you can pour out the contents of your heart, chaff and grain alike. Knowing that the gentlest of hands will take and sift it, keep what is worth keeping and with a breath of kindness, blowing away the chaff .


It is our fervent hope that your wrist is healed promptly.
In the mean time I encourage you to be undaunted by it's temporary condition.
My wife's cousin lost his right arm past the elbow, and still managed to restore antique clocks and build new ones, even to the point of cutting gears and fitting the intricate mechanisms.
A task best suited to a three-handed ambidextrous contortionist!

HAVE A NICE DAY! See what I mean?

maybe not!
Regards; Floyd
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:42 PM   #23
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For the record, we had a great Scamping trip up in the Sierras over labor day weekend. Over 200 miles each way, up and down some twisty roads and steep grades as well as freeway cruising. I checked the bearings at gas stops and they didn't get hot at all. The new brakes worked well and what a difference they make - stops feel much more controlled now that the 1000 lbs of dead weight back there has its own brakes. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-18-2010, 06:05 AM   #24
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Wilder,
I have a 95 Scamp - if you have seen my post recently, I am looking for some help to find out if 90's era scamps have a arm coming from the axle to the wheel that angles down. Would you mind telling me if your 93 arm angles down? I would appreciate this very much as I am in need of this information to sort out some ordering confusion. Mike
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:07 AM   #25
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Hi Mike,

I'm not exactly clear on what you mean, but I looked underneath and I don't see any angled bar from the axle to the wheel. Everything looks straight and horizontal, right across the axle to the wheel.

Hope that helps
-Wilder
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:57 AM   #26
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Mike,
You have a standard Scamp Torsion Axle.
The axle housing, the portion that is under the trailer and goes from side to side, is filled with rubber that acts as a shock absorber when the wheels travel up or down.
John
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:20 PM   #27
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Hi Mike,

I'm not exactly clear on what you mean, but I looked underneath and I don't see any angled bar from the axle to the wheel. Everything looks straight and horizontal, right across the axle to the wheel.

Hope that helps
-Wilder
Thanks for looking Wilder - attached to the axle is a short arm (that's what I think it is called) Without the load of the trailer (starting angle I believe it is called) that arm could be pointed down likely 22.5 or 10 degrees or up 22.5 or 10 degrees. My old Dexter axle is pointed down 22.5 and scamp has sent me a replacement that is 22.5 degrees starting angle up. They claim that all scamp 13's after 1990 had these "up" axles. I am trying to find out if this is true because mine is sure angled down. When you had the weight off the trailer I was wondering if you noticed whether the angle was up or down. With the weight back on the trailer it may be hard to tell. Thanks though for trying, Mike
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:30 PM   #28
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Hi Perry,
The confusion for me is whether all Scamp 13's built after 1990 have the Dexter 22.5 starting angle up for the arm going to the hub from the straight axle. I took off my Dexter for my 95, the 22.5 starting angle on the arm is down. Scamp sent me one with a starting angle up and claim that they were all made like that after 1990. Mine looks original and so I am sure it needs an axle with the arm going down. My RV repairman says the same thing. I am trying to find one other 90 era's Scamp owner that can verify that the starting angle is down. In scamp's own manual on their web site it talks about a Dexter 22.5 degree down. I have brought this to the attention of Scamp Parts, but they stiill insist that all post 90's went up. I don't think this correct. Anyways - my problem and I will sort it out, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
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