Scamp Parts Dept. info

[Raya]

This did not seem to fit into any of the more specific sub-forums, so I decided on General Chat.

After looking over the parts page on Scamp's site (http://shop.scamptrailers.com/), I had a few questions, so I called and spoke to the fellow in the parts department there. Just thought I'd share what I found out.

Putty tape: I asked about the thickness, and if it was butyl tape or not.

A: It is 1/8" thick and not butyl


Door hinges: I asked if they had any measurements of the hole arrangement in their door hinges, as I wondered how they might line up with those in my Boler and was weighing the options of new hinges vs. hinge rebuild kits (the body side hinge in the Scamp hinges has three holes, which would be nice for additional support; but I wanted to get an idea of how any of the other holes would line up -- such as the two on the door side -- and was wondering if they had any sort of drawing of their hinges dimensions).

A: They do not have a dimensional drawing, and could not tell me about how the hinges might or might not compare (beyond what one could obviously see from the photographs).


Seam tape: I asked if the seam tape availale was sticky on both sides (as the original was, which was then dusted with talcum powder --- but of course it would make more sense now to just buy one-side-sticky tape) or just one .

A: The seam tape is sticky on just one side.


White Mini Trim for cabinets: I asked about the profile shape of the "White Mini Trim for Cabinets." I could see that the White Mini Rigid Trim was square in profile, but I was looking for some trim that was more rounded in shape, to match the original on my Boler (even that which did not have to bend around corners). I could not clearly see the profile of the trim in question on the website.

A: The "White Mini Trim for Cabinets" has more of a rounded profile.

Raya

[Alf S.]

Hi: Raya... Here's a pic of the Scamp hinge. The arm on the door side is aprox 1/8-1/4" longer than a Boler hinge. I decided to do the hinge kit first but I bought the hinges too!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Donna D.]

Thanks for the info Raya. I'm going to move this to Care and Feeding since it seems to fit that forum. Now watch, another moderator will move it somewhere else

[Raya]

Thanks for the info Raya. I'm going to move this to Care and Feeding since it seems to fit that forum. Now watch, another moderator will move it somewhere else

That was my other contender

Alf, when you say it's longer, do you mean the "arm" is longer, meaning it would attach to the door closer to the rear of the trailer? Or that it's "taller," meaning that the holes are further apart vertically?

It probably doesn't matter, as in either case it means filling and re-drilling holes, but now you've got me curious.

I'll probably just buy the hinge kits, put in my own stainless parts, and then if I want to strengthen the hinge area just do it myself with a backer plate on the inside. I can see that the brass balls in the hinges on my Boler are worn down. Might as well start there.

[Alf S.]

Hi: Raya... The actual arm above the brass ball is longer so the mounting holes DO require filling and re drilling when replacing the entire hinge. Thats why I opted to replace just the pin/ball/spring& nut and I changed the mounting hardware as I drilled out the screws in the door only... filled the holes... then redrilled the holes to center the door in the opening. A slight realignment was all that was required to bring in the bottom of the door and make it stop binding at the top. Over time the holes in the door had become more like a three leaf clover shape than a 1/4" round hole!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Pete Dumbleton]

I believe one of the points of the brass ball, besides being a pivot point, is that it will wear and can be less expensively replaced than the entire hinge set.

[Raya]

I believe one of the points of the brass ball, besides being a pivot point, is that it will wear and can be less expensively replaced than the entire hinge set.

Probably so, Pete.

There's nothing wrong with the cast part of my hinges; I was just considering switching over because the Scamp hinges have a triangular footprint on the body side, vs. the two-point one of the Boler hinges.

Raya

[Pete Dumbleton]

That makes sense to me!

[Roger C H]

I believe one of the points of the brass ball, besides being a pivot point, is that it will wear and can be less expensively replaced than the entire hinge set.

Brass is a natural bearing material. Plus being a different material than the hinges it prevents the galling that occurs with identical material. You could use nylon. There are nylon bushings available at hardware stores and it would be easier to shape. Nylon would not need lubrication, but the brass does. Just a drop of oil occasionally will do it.