Scamp windows don't crank - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-12-2016, 01:20 PM   #1
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Name: Eileen
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1977
New Mexico
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Scamp windows don't crank

My 1977 13' scamp has louvred windows on either side. The cranks don't work anymore. Has anyone figured out how to make the cranks work again or found any other windows that fit in the same space? Scamp no longer offers these windows.
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Old 09-12-2016, 02:16 PM   #2
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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replacement operators (the little gear box the crank handle is on) are available from various sources. I got one at my local hardware store, Vintage Trailer Supply is another source, and I think someone here mentioned a good supplier. There are different versions of the operator, so you'll have to compare with what you have. Try doing a search here for better info.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:19 PM   #3
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Name: Emily
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We replaced our cranks from Vintage Trailer Supply for our 1984 Scamp. It was a quick, easy fix that I wish we had done sooner! They have a pretty big variety of cranks that are reasonably priced.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:28 AM   #4
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Name: Eileen
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1977
New Mexico
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Do you have a description or number for the crank you found? Did you have to take the whole window apart? thanks!!
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:45 PM   #5
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I replaced one last year on my Trillium. The window must be taken off the camper to replace the operator. I was removing the window the reseal it anyway.
My local RV reseller had various operator models in store, so I had to bring the old one, price was about $13 CAD.
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:59 PM   #6
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For the Scamp we didn't have to replace the window, just remove two screws on the bottom bar and two from the crank. This is the link to my original post about replacing the crank and more detail, including the part numbers from Vintage Trailer Supply! See specifically post number one and number 13.

Replaced Window Crank
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:07 PM   #7
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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In the meantime, try a little WD-40 or similar on all the joints.

Take the screen out to access them.
Take your handle off.
Squirt some into the gearbox from both where the rod goes in and the handle goes in. Also try to squirt some between the gearbox and the window frame.
Some operators contact the window frame where you can't see it.

Put some vise grips on the handle portion, spray some more into the gearbox, gently wiggle the gears from the handle. Repeat. The gears should slowly start to loosen up.
When they do, try to get someone to help move the windows as you turn.
Repeat.

With patience and persistence you may get your windows working again. The key is slow and easy or you may break something. I've gotten a few working again following this technique.

If you do, as others have said, it is a cheap part. I'm doing mine and Randy Bishop says you can pop rivet them in from the outside of the frame. I posted a sketch of what he described.
Looking for jalousie pieces

I have one of my windows out now. I want to try using Jig-a-loo Nano as a lubricant. I tried the graphite version and it makes a black mess of everything. Nano lubricant | Jig-A-Loo
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:22 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Quebec
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I just read about Randy's replacements, doing it without removing the window. I can't remember exactly how I replaced mine and how I figured the window had to be off the trailer, so I might be wrong when I say the window has to be off.
As I said, in my case the window was off anyway, I just remember being glad it was off since I couldn't see a way to replace the operator otherwise. I probably just didn't look hard enough!
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:05 PM   #9
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Name: sharon
Trailer: Scamp
Virginia
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on mine, the knob was stripped out. we found a gas valve at Lowes that had the same size inside diameter & pushed it on. I think it was $20, a little pricey but quick fix.
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:09 PM   #10
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Trailer: Scamp
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Eileen, have you tried to tighten the screw in the middle of the knob? that helped some
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:17 PM   #11
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Carl,
The difference is that a Trillium has the wood frame under the ensolite, so you can't easily get at the operator from the outside of the frame.

Many bolers and Scamp type trailers only have the fiberglass and liner. The frame sticks into the trailer about 1" and is exposed on all sides.

I'm in the middle of doing mine on the Trillium and thinking that if I have the window out, I'll try to find something like a T-nut to put in from the outside of the frame and use a machine thread on the inside, so I can simply screw the operator out next time it needs replacing.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:05 PM   #12
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Ok thanks Roy for the clarification!
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #13
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Name: Eileen
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1977
New Mexico
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Scamp Windows

I don't think my knobs have any screws. I can't check until the trailer comes back from the guy who's giving me an estimate for an axle replacement. I appreciate all the suggestions.
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
I'm in the middle of doing mine on the Trillium and thinking that if I have the window out, I'll try to find something like a T-nut to put in from the outside of the frame and use a machine thread on the inside, so I can simply screw the operator out next time it needs replacing.
I found that a 1/2" Chicago Screw works great. On mine I had to cut a section off of the head on the female for it to fit into the back side of the frame. That is make the round head flat on one side up to the body of the bolt.This also helps keep the head from turning. Both the frame and operator had to be drilled to 7/64" to fit the female. That is 1/64" larger than the existing hole in the operator.
The male head with the screwdriver slot sits nice and flat against the operator much like the original rivet head.
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