Sealing the Power Cord Door when in use - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-06-2009, 01:33 PM   #1
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As a result of Jim's question about the Marine Power outlet, I would like some of your input as to how you prevent bugs and mice from entering your trailer when the power cord is in use. That little swing down thingy on the inside will keep the rat's and hoot-owls out but there must be a serious way to close that opening up.

I have used Foam Rubber crammed around it and also made a custom cut copper plate to slip around the cord.

What have some of you done?

EKW
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:04 PM   #2
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I haven't done it yet, but have thought of modeling clay. I've seen people use that on a deck pipe (where the anchor chain goes down into a boat on the foredeck) to keep green water out when in rough conditions.

I think that ultimately I will also go with a marine-type male inlet and a separate cord though.

Raya
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
I haven't done it yet, but have thought of modeling clay. I've seen people use that on a deck pipe (where the anchor chain goes down into a boat on the foredeck) to keep green water out when in rough conditions.

I think that ultimately I will also go with a marine-type male inlet and a separate cord though.

Raya

I just went over to Camping World and looked at the 30 amp ParkPower™Conversion Kit suggested in Jim's thread about mice. That looks like a really sweet deal, and if I can scrape up the $$, I think I'll do that after all. Sure would be nice to be done with that once and for all.

EKW
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:46 PM   #4
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Keith,

I purchase scrap nylon and other materials from a store called TAP Plastics. The pieces vary in size but most are generally are about 8" x 10" and varying thicknesses.

I made two different plugs, one for regular extension cords and one for the 30 amp trailer cord. The 1/2" thick nylon was cut slightly larger than the opening and then I routed a groove in it for the door.


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You can see a little opening at the bottom but it is not really an opening. My plug actually comes down a little below the door frame. Nothing will get in.
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:56 PM   #5
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I now have a marine plug installed but prior to that, I just wadded up a plastic bag and shoved it into the mouse hole around the cord. Not elegant but it worked.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:40 PM   #6
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One of the first upgrades I did on our Scamp 5er was the Shore-Power Connector Replaces Pull-Out Cord mod. Not only does it keep mice out, it also reduces the amount of space the shore line cable takes under our dinette bench.


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Old 09-06-2009, 11:18 PM   #7
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One of the very first mods we did as well was to put a sealed power connector in. You can do it much cheaper with parts at the Depot then the Marine ones. The main reason we did it was not for mice, but to prevent the ants from coming in up the cord. Much more prevalent an issue when camping.

Another ant prevention we learned this summer from some seasoned rv'ers was to put white vinegar around the base of your jack stands to keep the ants from coming up that way. Worked well.
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:27 AM   #8
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I made a new slap on the inside that swings open and then wraps around the cord when slid back, it keeps mice out but I have yet to see a way to keep ants out although we have not had a big problem with either. After using it for a while I think I like Peter's idea the best even though its much more expensive. After you install his you could make the opening big enough to fit the bigger size storage doors for more stuff
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:34 AM   #9
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I went with a marine 30 amp twist-lock for the trailer's shore power inlet, and put a matching female 30 amp twist-lock on the end of the cord. I just cut the existing "factory" shore power cord off, leaving enough inside to hook up to the twist-lock fitting, and now it's so easy to hook up and remove. No more fighting with that silly cord to try and work it back into that crummy little door to stow it. It always reminded me of trying to get the spring loaded "canned snake" gag gift back in the box. Now I just unplug it and coil it up and throw it in the storage box in the truck.

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Old 09-07-2009, 10:44 AM   #10
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[quote]I went with a marine 30 amp twist-lock for the trailer's shore power inlet, and put a matching female 30 amp twist-lock on the end of the cord. I just cut the existing "factory" shore power cord off, leaving enough inside to hook up to the twist-lock fitting, and now it's so easy to hook up and remove. No more fighting with that silly cord to try and work it back into that crummy little door to stow it. It always reminded me of trying to get the spring loaded "canned snake" gag gift back in the box. Now I just unplug it and coil it up and throw it in the storage box in the truck.

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Nice job. Where did you get the Twist Lock fittings and do you remember how much they cost?

Thanks,

Keith
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:09 AM   #11
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The one I used is made by Marinco. The model is MARCO#301EL-B. I think it was around $80 bucks. A little bit pricey, but you only have to buy it once. I got mine through West Marine, and their equipment catalog stock item number is 147454. They have a good on-line web site/catalog/store too.

Here's a link to it:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...rtial/0/0?N=377
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:30 AM   #12
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Thanks Greg, I'll check it out.

EKW
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:50 AM   #13
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Hi! I also modified my door, with a small piece of UHMW and a small piece of aluminum sheet.


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The aluminum piece is 1/8" thick, and only slightly larger than the original power hole in the door, It has a small panhead screw in it to prevent it from disappearing inside. There is a small notch filed in the aluminum to fit tightly between thedoor frame and door when the power cord is not in use.

The UHMW is about 3/4" thick, with a slot routed in it for the small piece of aluminum, and a hole cut in it that fits reasonably tightly around the power cord.


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When the power cord is stored, the seal is tight as well.

Vic
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:54 PM   #14
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Well, Greg & the rest of you that responded, here's what I did.

Friday, I went to the West Marine Store here in Denver and bought the "whole enchilad". Hatch inlet, Female connector and Weatherproof cover for the Connector. Totaled $148. You're right, Greg, you only buy it once. But..... today I looked again on the Internet, just for grins, and wouldn't ya know, I found this RV Conversion kit for $102 including shipping to me.

http://www.tweetys.com/detachablepow...kit-30amp.aspx

This is a Kit to do what I wanted and it's made for RV's. Now I just have to decide if I want to keep what I have or take it back and order the kit and wait for delivery. I need to get this done so I'll probably keep what I have. But I wanted others' to know about this kit.

Thanks to all of you for your help.

Keith
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