Setup Questions - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-02-2006, 02:31 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Bigfoot
Manitoba
Posts: 604
While perusing the forums, I noted someone cautioning against supporting the trailer with jackstands under the rear bumper, and I realized that I was clueless when it comes to the art of setting up the trailer. Situation 1 - still hooked up to the tug - quick overnight stop: Do you need to support the back of the trailer with jackstands? Situation 2 - full stop setup. Should the weight remain on the wheels, with the jackstands just levelling things up? Should the jackstands be setup on the rear bumper or under the fore/aft trailer beams? Setup procedure - should you lower the front after disconnecting from the tug, set up the rear jackstands, then use the front jack to raise the front, then support with jackstands -- esentially taking the weight off of the wheels? I would very much appreciate some opinions/procedures from the experienced members.
__________________

__________________
Cam A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 02:47 PM   #2
Member
 
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 64
The jack stands are just ot take out the jiggle wiggle when you are in the trailer-I store mine for long periods when at home on the stands (partially) to help save the torsion rubber life.
__________________

__________________
shirley munson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 03:16 PM   #3
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
Jacks are not for leveling. They are for stabilizing only.

Situation TWO: To level, side to side, get some leveling blocks and drive onto them. Linx Levelers are cheap and work well. To level front to back, use the tongue jack.

THEN put your stabilizing jacks under the frame, preferably under to body of the trailer to keep from as Shirely says "Wiggle".

trying to jack up on the corners tweaks the frame.

If I HAVE to jack to level side to side, I put the jack under the axle, or, worst case, at the frame right in front of the axle.

Situation ONE. Just put the stablizers as in situation two.
__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 06:53 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Casita 2005 17 ft Freedom Deluxe
Posts: 12
Never ever put the jack under the AXLE. Under the frame only. TOM
__________________
Tom & Virginia Allin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 07:04 PM   #5
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
Thats is what I meant, sorry. At the spot on the frame at the axle.

Sometimes that is hard to get to based on where your are sitting.
__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 08:38 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Chris Z's Avatar
 
Trailer: 16 Scamp, 17 Casita, 21Bigfoot now
Posts: 412
Registry
if you put a jack under the axle, you can bend it or what? Thanks
__________________
Chris Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 09:29 AM   #7
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
Yes.

I don't imagine it's real stable if you do it there either. Not much surface area there to bite into, and MY axle is round.. most jacks area flat on top.

If you jack on the frame right at the axle, it is a center point and the tweaking aspect is eliminated, or at least minimized.
__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 10:56 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
I always disconnect the trailer if in a campground after I more or less set it level left to right by bubble level on the floor and using ass`t boards that I carry or you can use those fancy adjustable things under the tires.....I then disconnect the tow vehicle and crank the front so that the trailer is level and then back it off a few turns, go to the back and set my stands, either with the screws or more ass`t pieces of wood and usually I use the stands without the screws and find it just as easy to use the wood pieces, and set it so all is snug or with as little free play as possible under the bumper ......then go to the front and lift the front with the jack until the trailer is level on the front/back bubble, and, voila, it`s done.....I level all the time because of my fridge and also hate to sleep if my bed isn`t level.....and also there is no trailer jiggling every time you move as someone else mentioned earlier.....set-up takes about 3-5 minutes I guess, never timed it, so for us it`s worth doing it......I`ve also used the boards under the tires and the front jack only, to level, when parking on some streets while doing some sightseeing/ walking around......with the 13' I can usually get into two consecutive, car parking spots on the street and plug both meters and then walk around a bit,(two dollar tour), LOL......there has also been times that I`ve had to use boards under the rear wheels of my truck to help level the trailer on the street or sloped parking lot.....Benny
__________________
Benny K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 01:16 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
jack maloney's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1986 U-Haul CT13 ft
Posts: 494
Quote:
Jacks are not for leveling. They are for stabilizing only.
Oh, really? I've been using the rear-bumper mounted jacks to level for two years and 20,000 miles now with zero problems or visible impact on the UHaul.

I have a big bubble level on the front window stone guard that I can see in the TV rearview mirror, which helps me position the egg for best natural side-to-side level. Then I unhook, drop the tongue down, set the rear jacks to compensate for any side-to-side variance and crank the tongue back to level again. Easy, works great, all good and stable.

I wouldn't use the rear jacks to level on a sidehill, or anywhere a tire had to be lifted. But as long as most of the trailer weight is on the tires, I see no reason not to use them to level the rig.
__________________
jack maloney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2006, 09:08 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Quote:
Oh, really? I've been using the rear-bumper mounted jacks to level for two years and 20,000 miles now with zero problems or visible impact on the UHaul.
Well Jack, you have a U-Haul with the super-duper frame, afterall they were built to be used as rentals and to take more than average abuse. Looking at the Scamp, I certainly wouldn't use the bumper to level the trailer Why invite trouble when it's not necessary.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2006, 10:06 AM   #11
Moderator
 
Frederick L. Simson's Avatar
 
Name: Frederick
Trailer: Fiber Stream
California
Posts: 8,151
Registry
Send a message via AIM to Frederick L. Simson
Arrow

Quote:
Well Jack, you have a U-Haul [b]with the super-duper frame, afterall they were built to be used as rentals and to take more than average abuse.
I agree. That is a feature that separates the U-Hauls from the rest of us. My Fiber Stream's frame is only 1" x 2" rectangular channel tube, half the size of your average Casita's frame. And it is tweaked.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
Frederick L. Simson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2006, 11:42 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
My Boler B1700 has a 2"x4" box steel frame. I'm not worried about it failing if supported at one corner, but it noticeably twists (to the point of stressing the body) if that is tried. Small adjustments to level with jacks under the back end of the frame rails seems to be okay, but not supporting anything like the whole weight.

In his site for the B1700 which he used to own - "Our Boler" - Peter Epel shows a couple of images of cracking in fiberglass around the notches in the lower body skirt around the frame rails; when the frame twists enough, the body hits at these points (front or back) and bad things can happen.

A body-on-frame car or truck is in a similar situation, with one important difference:
most automotive bodies are mounted on a relatively small number of cushioned mounts, allowing some frame flex without excesive body stress, while egg shells ride directly on the frame all over the place. Even with the mounts, the doors on some older cars will not operate properly while the car is jacked up to change one tire.

The U-Haul frame - which I have seen only through discussion and photos in this forum - is an interesting design. As I recall and earlier discussion, it appears to have tubular through-rail crossmembers, which is certainly not the case in other designs, is the current state of the art for pickup trucks, and which significantly improves resistance to twisting ("torsional stiffness", in technical terms).
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2006, 12:14 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Per
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
Oregon
Posts: 863
Registry
My Burro has a 2x4 inch box steel frame, but it also is not immune to slight twisting. I happened to crank the left-front corner a bit too much with the jackstand and the door started scraping slightly in its frame. True, the door tolerance to the frame was almost nothing, but as soon as I released some of the force it freed right up.

I would be interested in knowing if the manufacturers have tested torsional stiffness and calculated what is the best amount to preserve the fiberglass shell. A guess is that a perfectly stiff frame would be preferable, but I'm open to arguments against that. Maybe some elasticity is preferable. Certainly car makers tout increased torsional stiffness as a plus (allows the suspension to be designed to do its job better too).
__________________
Per Walthinsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2006, 08:35 PM   #14
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
"Nothing handles like a Rental"

I am thinking since everyone I know that tows has told me to never jack the trailer up by the rear jacks for all the reasons mentioned, I am not going to do it.

I have heard the frame/body creak pretty bad with even just a normal cinching to stablize.

As Donna says, why tempt it? A bottle jack properly placed takes just a minute longer, and the bottle jacks these days are a pitance to buy. (Under 20 bones)

Jack if needed and put stabilizers down, cinch and put jack stands on front corners, cinch, ez pz.
__________________

__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Strange Tow setup Doug Arthurs General Chat 36 07-28-2010 10:52 PM
Help with wiring diagram setup DannyH Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 12-16-2009 10:02 AM
solar setup at costco. Good buy colin k Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 98 06-26-2008 08:03 PM
Tandem Axle Scamp Setup Donna D. Modifications, Alterations and Updates 7 01-28-2007 06:00 PM
Some pictures of our new 'setup' Legacy Posts General Chat 2 05-15-2003 11:23 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.