Several questions about my "new"Scamp. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-19-2009, 10:41 PM   #1
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I finally was able to spend some time with my16 Scamp today now that I have a plug adaptor and a full propane tank. All of the lights worked and the furnace threw out nice warm air. So, I spent some time looking around and came up with a list of questions.

1. The converter - do I have to do anything special with that thing? Just plug and unplug from the garage and not have to throw any switches? How about when I go off grid and rely on battery? Lights will still work and I'm looking at using devices with 12V outlets only, correct? Will my furnace fan still work off of battery?

2. If I was to install an air conditioner in the closet, I'd have to install an outlet in the closet. Can the electrical system handle this?

3. The little wall (helps support the frame for the screen door) to my right as I enter the door has separated from where it was attached to the curve off the outside frame near the door. Is this a structural support and should I replace it or is not a huge deal?

4. The little nuts and bolts that hold the cabinets up - If I were to take down a rear cabinet for painting by unscrewing those nuts, am I asking for a nightmare getting them back up? Will it be impossible to get everything back together again?

5. A lot of my rivet covers on the outside are broken off, leaving the exposed rivet heads. How are these replaced? It looks like I need to replace the whole rivet and seal it up as I go. Anyone replace ALL of these? I'm curious as to how that went.

OK, I think that's it for now. Thank you for any insight.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:13 PM   #2
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Here is a picture of what I was talking about with the door support. Is that piece vital to the integrity of the shell or just vital in helping to keep the bugs out?


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Old 01-20-2009, 11:08 PM   #3
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I'm not 100% familiar with the Scamp, but ...

If there is no square metal tube behind the separating wood at the door, I'd say it was structural.
Look up "body sag" on the forums.

There is a good chance the nuts holding up your cabinets are the "decorative" Acorn nuts used to hide the ends of the rivets and give a bit more support.

The caps and rivets have been replaced by many. Drill out the old one and install the new. Scamp sells whole kits of everthing you need to replace them all. Some advocate going to SS bolts and nyloc. Again search the forums for discussions on this.
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:25 PM   #4
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This is one of the all-time best threads on sealants, rivets and SS bolts, etc.

Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing, Split topic
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:15 AM   #5
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Hi: Brian L... The wood panel at the edge of the door was only to square up the opening for the screen door option. It might help with the support of the door frame...but not much!!! If you want to see a really neat screen door Google "Mirage screen door". I think these are the ones Escape are now using???
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:48 PM   #6
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Thanks Roy and Alf for the suggestions. It looks like that's another project to add to the list!

Greg, something like that link is exactly what I was looking for. A good post with pictures and the whole deal. Sometimes my searches just don't find the gems that people have been here a while find.
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Old 01-23-2009, 03:04 PM   #7
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Welcome to Scamp ownership. I have a 92 16' and love it.

re your questions:

1) I have never had to touch my converter. I am assuming that it is in the same location as mine - under the back table seats? If you plan to store anything in that hatch then make sure it does not cover or touch the converter. The converter needs air and it gets warm. I put a couple of those spring loaded fridge bars in my hatch to keep things from going up against it. If the furnace is the standard Suburban then it is designed to run on 12 volt so the fan will work. Only problem with running it is that it will suck up a lot of power. If you plan on using it a lot off grid then you need to look at saving power other ways - solar panels, LED lights or stick up Dot lights etc.

2. As Scamp often installs AC in the trailers at the factory I can not see why the elecrical system could not handle one. I have a portable one that fits in the back window and have never had the breaker go with it on. The wiring chart in there manual shows the AC wires running from the 120 volt breaker box.

3. I do not think that that the little wall for the screen door is supporting anything. Call scamp and confirm that though. I love the screen door on the Scamp. I use the other side of the wall to hang all sort of things.

4. The little nuts and bolts that hold the cabinets up go through the roof and sides of trailer. :-)Suggest you practise on a couple of easier ones first. It is hard to find the right sized rivets, nuts and screws so buying a full kit of them from Scamp is worth it and there prices are not bad either.

5. If the rivet heads still have the round plastic retainer that the cap snaps onto, then all you need to do is order some new caps from Scamp. Its hard to find the right cap sizes at other locations. The caps do with time get brittle and break off. You do not need to replace the whole rivet unless it is leaking or the retaining ring that holds the cap on is gone. Again I would try replacing a rivet that you know is leaking and is easy to get at before deciding on replacing all of them. A lot of work and you will need another set of helping hands.


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Old 01-23-2009, 08:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
2. As Scamp often installs AC in the trailers at the factory I can not see why the elecrical system could not handle one. I have a portable one that fits in the back window and have never had the breaker go with it on. The wiring chart in there manual shows the AC wires running from the 120 volt breaker box.
That might not be a good assumption -- A/C is a special option on 13' so the roof can be strengthened. Portable a/c is usually smaller in electrical demands than the larger ones.
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:16 PM   #9
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That might not be a good assumption -- A/C is a special option on 13' so the roof can be strengthened. Portable a/c is usually smaller in electrical demands than the larger ones.
Agree Pete that putting A/C on the roof may be an issue but he said he wanted to put the A/C in the closest - which is where Scamp was putting them in the early/mid 90's. Would be suprised if there was a strength issue in that location. Agree the portable a/c's take less juice but the wiring diagram for mine shows a wire running from the main 120 breaker to the closest and that is marked for A/C - would be best to check directly with Scamp but I would be suprised if they said it could not handle an closest type A/C.

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Old 01-25-2009, 04:26 PM   #10
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My point is not the roof but the fact that across-the-board assumptions have been made that all a/c wiring is proper in all models just because some models have them.

It is likely a safe assumption to be made in this case, but should be recognized that it IS an assumption.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:39 PM   #11
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That might not be a good assumption -- A/C is a special option on 13' so the roof can be strengthened. Portable a/c is usually smaller in electrical demands than the larger ones.
When I re-wired the A/C on my '87 Burro, I went with a two 15 amp breaker 30 amp circuit, and a 30 amp cord and plug. I ran all of the trailer with one 15 amp breaker and reserved the other for the A/C unit.

I wouldn't make any assumptions with a '92 trailer. Trace it down, and see what's there. If it's adequate, great. If it's not, get the right stuff.

Here's a link to an article on ammonia-absorption refrigerators you might find enlightening: "Why They Fail"

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