small baggage doors - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-13-2016, 10:11 PM   #1
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Name: Wayne
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small baggage doors

First I hope I'm in the right area.. If not please move me to the right one..

I really would like to add an exterior baggage door to my egg so that I can access under the bed bench area from outside. My problem is finding doors small enough to fit the area I want to put them in. Max outside dimension including the frame is 12" high and 18" wide. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:38 PM   #2
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Here's one that's 11-1/2" x 14-3/4".

New 11 1 2 x 14 3 4 Hatch Baggage Cargo Compartment Storage Door RV Camper | eBay

There are some smaller ones under JR products on Amazon.

RV Parts Nation has a 600 series that are 14-1/2" by about anything you want (if larger!) in 1/2" increments.

Maybe someone else will know a good source to see more options.
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Old 09-14-2016, 12:28 AM   #3
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Might want to check what Ebay has to offer. I've purchased a number of items on that site quite a bit cheaper than what RV stores want.
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:25 AM   #4
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Paul Neumiester in Sebringville sells these. I put one on either side.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-14-2016, 10:05 AM   #5
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I found a very nice, actually pristine, salvage door for the same purpose (storage access hatch on my Burro) at NW RV Supply in Eugene, Oregon. The price was great, about $25 for an insulated locking hatch door about 10" high by 24" length. They have a large back lot with all kinds of used/salvage items. If you're willing to dig through you can find gems. There are similar Used RV parts stores in other places. Like a "pick & pull" auto parts yard, if you're willing to do the digging around you can save big on parts.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james kent View Post
Paul Neumiester in Sebringville sells these.
Link to Paul's site: Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister

I'm in the process of adding some to my Trillium. I found some larger (old style) ones with the square corners. Those you can take apart by undoing some screws in the frame and then cut down to size. The piece of fiberglass you cut out can then be inserted as a panel, making it match the gel coat colour.
General consensus is put the hinge to the bottom. Especially on a Trillium because the body lines will not allow the hatch to fully open if the hinge is on the top. You could try hinges on the sides, but remember that you will need to keep a larger area clear if want to open the doors.
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:31 AM   #7
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I got one off eBay I put on the Driver's side of my Scamp. Rounded corners, snubs up nice under the framing above supporting the dinette bench and still clears the plumbing hoses on the bottom. Not too long, 19ish inches I think, so that the body curve became a problem. I hinged it on top, just cause I did not want it flopping open if I forget to latch it or just want to let it hang unlocked. I have a small bar clamp I use to keep it open if so desired although I also have a couple of spring loaded luggage door holder-openers I bought off Amazon but have not installed yet.
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:19 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by james kent View Post
Paul Neumiester in Sebringville sells these. I put one on either side.Attachment 99757


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James do you have the dimensions of that door? It looks like exactly what I am trying to accomplish..
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Link to Paul's site: Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister

I'm in the process of adding some to my Trillium. I found some larger (old style) ones with the square corners. Those you can take apart by undoing some screws in the frame and then cut down to size. The piece of fiberglass you cut out can then be inserted as a panel, making it match the gel coat colour.
General consensus is put the hinge to the bottom. Especially on a Trillium because the body lines will not allow the hatch to fully open if the hinge is on the top. You could try hinges on the sides, but remember that you will need to keep a larger area clear if want to open the doors.
Now this is a GREAT idea.. I did not know you could do that.. Now I can look at larger doors as long as they are older with square corners.. Thanks for the idea
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:18 PM   #10
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Now I can look at larger doors as long as they are older with square corners.. Thanks for the idea
The ones I got were brand new. They still make them that way. I only called them older style because they did not have the radius corners.
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Old 09-15-2016, 05:58 AM   #11
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I got mine in my local classifieds. I regularly saw some up for sale, but I was looking for a specific size that would fit the trailer, long and narrow, like about up to 38" wide but no more than about 14" high . Then one day I found one that's 36X11, perfect fit, from some guy selling parts of an old motorhome he was dismantling. Got the door and frame assembly for $25. Rounded corners. It can be taken apart and then the cut out part of the trailer can be inserted in the door frame.
I haven't installed it yet.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:40 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Wizard765 View Post
James do you have the dimensions of that door? It looks like exactly what I am trying to accomplish..

The door measures about 15" wide x 9" high and the flange surrounding is about 1 additional inch outside that. The opening is large enough that you could stuff an old green two burner stove through into the under seat storage. We made a permanent bed so can't access the storage from inside. We now load all our outside hardware, (jacks, level blocks hoses, small heater, extra large kettle, solar cables etc.) through these hatches.
The reason for placing the hinge at the bottom is so that you don't have to hold the door up when accessing the things inside. When cutting the hole, place the flange INSIDE and drill a hole inside the four corners. Then from the outside scribe inside the flange. This way you know that you won't hit any obstruction. I found that a metal hacksaw blade in my saber saw did a good job on the fibreglass. On the curb side I did have to move the marker light so took the opportunity to upgrade them all. It's not rocket science. Just take your time and enjoy the results.

Jim


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Old 09-16-2016, 07:06 AM   #13
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The reason for placing the hinge at the bottom is so that you don't have to hold the door up when accessing the things inside.
Jim,
When looking at my hinge, it looks like it would be a trap for dust and stuff. Since it is essentially shaped like a "U" channel, the only way I see for stuff to come out is out of the ends of the channel.
Any thoughts on drilling a couple of holes in the channel? I'm thinking like the drip/weep holes on some of the window tracks.
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:21 AM   #14
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Name: Wayne
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Originally Posted by james kent View Post
The door measures about 15" wide x 9" high and the flange surrounding is about 1 additional inch outside that. The opening is large enough that you could stuff an old green two burner stove through into the under seat storage. We made a permanent bed so can't access the storage from inside. We now load all our outside hardware, (jacks, level blocks hoses, small heater, extra large kettle, solar cables etc.) through these hatches.
The reason for placing the hinge at the bottom is so that you don't have to hold the door up when accessing the things inside. When cutting the hole, place the flange INSIDE and drill a hole inside the four corners. Then from the outside scribe inside the flange. This way you know that you won't hit any obstruction. I found that a metal hacksaw blade in my saber saw did a good job on the fibreglass. On the curb side I did have to move the marker light so took the opportunity to upgrade them all. It's not rocket science. Just take your time and enjoy the results.

Jim


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Thanks James:

That was actually very helpful.. I was worried about how to cut the holes..

I use to have (many years ago) a pop up camper and the access door hinged at the bottom.. we put stuff in and out of that storage compartment for many years and never had a problem with the hinge.. If I remember correctly it was a piano hinge and worst case scenario was take a brush and brush the debris out of that spot..

I certainly intend to put the hinge at the bottom and some sort of small chain or what have you to keep it open level like a shelf when loading etc..
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