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Old 08-31-2019, 05:46 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
there's either continuity or there isn't. readily determined with a DVM.
But if only one strand of a stranded wire is connected, there will be continuity but with severely limited current carrying capability. A bad crimp can show zero ohms on a meter but still be useless. And checking the voltage will show that the MC4 is making contact with the PV panel so thats one link in the chain (mostly) eliminated.
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Old 08-31-2019, 08:16 AM   #62
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Check that you didn't reverse the polarity in the process of making the extension. Check the voltage at the controller end of the extension cable with the panel end connected to the extension, and again at the terminals of the controller with the panel connected through the extension. Somewhere you have an open connection (or reversed polarity).
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Old 08-31-2019, 10:51 AM   #63
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Check that you didn't reverse the polarity in the process of making the extension. ...
Yeah... MC4 connectors are a little strange as they have male pins in a female housing and vice versa (the housing determining gender). Its possible to get polarity backwards.

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Old 08-31-2019, 11:15 AM   #64
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I'll try your suggestion tomorrow, Gordon. Right now, all I can get is lunar power! It doesn't seem to matter WHEN I hook up too the battery with this system. I typically hook everything up, THEN connect to the battery, and that sequence works for the product that Renogy supplied. I noted today as I hooked things up yet again for yet another attempt to make my 20 foot cord work, that the MC4 connectors I received from Amazon (because Renogy was out of stock)
Renogy MC4 connectors are different, and the Renogy tool is different as well. You also need a Dupont crimper, that can handle up to 12AWG. A regular crimper does not work on Dupont style fittings.

Endless reviews on Amazon where other tools and other MC4 fittings did not work.

You can always cut off the connectors and temporarily try wire nuts, or butt connectors. Not permanent mind you.

I have been using my modified cord all weekend camping. I replaced everything from the controller to the battery, with pieces of my 12G extension cord donor.

I used a Dupont crimper that was not big enough for the 10 and 12 gauge wire I used, so my crimps are mediocre. I bought the right crimper and another set of five pairs of Renogy connectors. "There is never enough time to do the job right, but always time to do it over." I'm guilty!

To maintain polarity, I used white as red, and kept black as black. I added red tape to the white wire. Yes, those connectors have a male and female part. You have to look close.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:59 AM   #65
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Renogy MC4 connectors are different, and the Renogy tool is different as well. You also need a Dupont crimper, that can handle up to 12AWG. A regular crimper does not work on Dupont style fittings.
Bill,

Will you please post a link to these two tools. I can't seem to figure it out. Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2019, 03:34 PM   #66
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This looks like the perfect crimping tool for the job:Holmesis HL-2546B MC4 Crimping Tool for 2.5/4/6mm˛(14-10AWG) Solar Connectors with Soft Handle. It is cheaper than the one I had ordered and used. The other style worked, but not perfectly. I’m ordering this one for the “doing-it-right” time.
Jon, I think you nailed it! I haven’t had the time to sort it out yet, but I THINK I screwed up the polarity when I made the 20 foot cord! Schtoopid
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:17 PM   #67
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BINGO! That was it — I had reversed the polarity when making up my 20 foot cord. Thanks Jon and all who have helped me get up to speed with solar. I have a brand new deep cycle battery. A multimeter this morning gave me a reading of 12.58 volts (if I recall correctly). The seller told me 100% charge would be 12.73. So I hooked up to the solar panels this morning to try my amended 20 foot cord. The controller said I had 93% charge, but I don’t recall the voltage shown on the controller. A couple of overcast hours later, the controller said my battery had 100% charge and a voltage of 14.2. I then disconnected the solar and took a reading of my battery with the multimeter — it read 12.74 volts.
Would the controller shut off (that is, “control”) the electricity to the battery once it sensed that the battery is fully charged? If I had left the solar panels hooked up all afternoon on a sunny day, would my battery still be in its happy place? Just trying to get this right before I damage my new battery!
If it matters, my controller is what came with the Renogy 100 watt polycrystalline solar suitcase with a 20 amp controller.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:24 PM   #68
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That's what a controller does. If you leave it connected, it should maintain charge and prevent backflow when the sun goes down.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:06 PM   #69
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Richard,

A good modern controller will bring the batteries up to about 14.2 volts, and then reduce the voltage to about 13.5 for a "float" charge. So, if you see 12.7, you are fully charged and not connected to a load, 13.5 you are in float and there is still energy comping from the panels. 14.2 means they are nearing full charge, but still charging, and in "absorption".

Look up the phases of battery charging and you'll see what "Bulk", "Absorption" and "Float" mean with respect to lead acid batteries.

Whenever a load is applied to a battery, it's voltage will read lower than fully charged. To get an accurate state of charge with voltage readings, you must let the battery "rest" for a while. Then read it's voltage. This holds for charging and discharging.

After the battery sits overnight and the sun comes back out, the process will start again. Bulk, absorption, float. At home, and with a charger plugged in, a battery can simply stay in float, when there is no load applied. So with solar, you will see lots of voltages as the system tells you all about what it is doing.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:13 PM   #70
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indeed, as Raspy said, 14.2 V or so is the 'absorption phase', which puts the last 20% of the charge in the battery.... it typically takes 4-6 hours to do this for a decent sized RV style battery, the controller is monitoring the battery charge current, and will stop 'absorption' once that drops to a rather small value. if it was left hooked up, eventually the voltage would have dropped to 13.6V or so, which is the float or maintenance phase.

the actual voltages are temperature dependent. another thing to note, when you disconnect the battery, it initially has a 'surface charge' which is closer to the voltage the charger was running at, and will take a couple hours to revert to its actual voltage, which can be used to determine how well the battery is charged.
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Old 09-02-2019, 04:01 PM   #71
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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you

You folks are great!
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:29 PM   #72
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Bill,

Will you please post a link to these two tools. I can't seem to figure it out. Thanks.
The Renogy Tool, buy one and you get a pair!

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Assemb...s%2C148&sr=8-1


On the Dupont tool, just read the "fine print" and get one that can handle 10AWG wire, something like this one, which handles 14, 12, and 10 AWG. Most of my wiring is 12, some is 10:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Solar-C...ateway&sr=8-18
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:48 AM   #73
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The IWISS tool I linked to above has a good video showing proper crimping. Be sure to watch it.

My SAE pigtails are 10 AWG, 3 foot long, the rest of my wiring is 12AWG from my donor extension cord.
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:28 AM   #74
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Bill,

Thanks!
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Old 09-15-2019, 10:34 AM   #75
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Solar is great for boondocking, but limited. Focus on lowering your consumption, and do your best to show up fully charged. Think about consuming less than a third of your battery’s usable capacity a day and size your panels to replace double that on an average day. Turn everything off and measure that battery current is then zero..leakage adds up.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:06 PM   #76
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Just a quick note to say we’ve been on the road for nearly two weeks with my Renogy solar suitcase and it is wonderful! Easy to use, tops up my battery in no time, and has introduced me to a brave new world! The longer cord has been a major addition to what came with the suitcase proper.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:22 PM   #77
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Solar is great for boondocking, but limited.
I don't find it limited at all for boondocking at all. Only on the rainiest and coldest of days have I not charged up fully every day. And this is an extreme, even if you get up to a good charge every three days all is good.

You do have to have adequate panel input, through fixed and/or portable.

I just love the freedom solar has given me, I no longer have to search for campsites with hookups, and in fact avoid them especially if there is cost savings.
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Old 09-18-2019, 02:05 AM   #78
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well, if you camp in heavily wooded areas, solar isn't very useful.


thankfully, much of the time I'm boondocking, its at 'star party' events, where we are out in the open to get maximum night sky...

like, this is my Escape at "CalStar 2018", last fall.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/35...4d-120.9599198

google took that pic on a fly over on the last day, so a lot of people had already left.

here's a pic of the first day, when I was still setting up. my 20" f/5 scope isn't assembled yet, just the rocker box in place.
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