Spot on trailer to test for level? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-02-2015, 12:40 PM   #15
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Name: Fred & Linda
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Simplify! Simplify! Simplify!

After owning 5 different motorhomes since 1976, we downsized a few years ago to our "Little Joe" which we love and use the same simple leveling process that we learned years ago with the motorhomes - - - simply swing open the refrigerator door and when it stays put in all positions, the rig is level.

Works for me, but some people think that is too elementary. (I do also have a level on the outside rear and side, so a double-check but they always match.)

. . . . Fred
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:48 PM   #16
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“Escaping Reality" came from the factory with the stick on bubble levels, one center rear just above the bellyband, one center passenger side just above the bellyband and this is all I use for verifying its being level. I've never been anal about the refrigerator being level and, so far, it's never been a problem with this or other trailers and campers I've had.

When leveling the trailer side to side I use the Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler.

Robot Check

They are a bit pricey but oh so easy to use and also act as a wheel chock on the side being raised.

I do, respectfully, disagree with Wayne regarding extending the rear stabilizers then raising the front of the trailer. In most cases the stabilizers are simply that, stabilizers, and unless they're the scissor type they're not meant to carry weight. I've always leveled side to side first then, using the tongue jack, front to back and finally lower the stabalizers firmly onto some Camco leveling blocks.

Now it's time be be a happy camper.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:03 PM   #17
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Agree with "OneOleMan". Stabilizers are not jacks.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred-Linda View Post
simply swing open the refrigerator door and when it stays put in all positions, the rig is level.
And the fridge will be at 80F inside.
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneOleMan View Post
“Escaping Reality" came from the factory with the stick on bubble levels, one center rear just above the bellyband, one center passenger side just above the bellyband and this is all I use for verifying its being level. I've never been anal about the refrigerator being level and, so far, it's never been a problem with this or other trailers and campers I've had.

When leveling the trailer side to side I use the Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler.

Robot Check

They are a bit pricey but oh so easy to use and also act as a wheel chock on the side being raised.

I do, respectfully, disagree with Wayne regarding extending the rear stabilizers then raising the front of the trailer. In most cases the stabilizers are simply that, stabilizers, and unless they're the scissor type they're not meant to carry weight. I've always leveled side to side first then, using the tongue jack, front to back and finally lower the stabalizers firmly onto some Camco leveling blocks.

Now it's time be be a happy camper.

However Atwood Stabilizers don't work very good without some pressure on them. That the reason for 1/2 bubble and only 1/2 bubble. Not enough to raise the wheels but enough to apply enough pressure to keep the trailer "STABILIZED".
EDIT -- Atwood calls them "Stabilizer Jacks". Read their manual here.
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:47 PM   #20
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Yup..it took me awhile to get that "concept" if you'll remember. Level on the wheels and stabilize ONLY with the stabilizers. As I mentioned earlier, I use them to "tweak" a bubble if needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
However Atwood Stabilizers don't work very good without some pressure on them. That the reason for 1/2 bubble and only 1/2 bubble. Not enough to raise the wheels but enough to apply enough pressure to keep the trailer "STABILIZED".
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:36 PM   #21
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I agree with Byron and Darrell on this. Without transferring some weight to the stabilizers, you will get a lot of bounce from the trailer suspension and the movement will cause the stabilizers to work loose. After leveling side-to-side and front-to-back, I drop the tongue a few turns below level, deploy the stabilizers, and then raise the tongue back to level.

I note that the Atwood model in the link, which appears to be the same as that on my Scamp, is rated for 650 pounds lifting and 1000 pounds static.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:49 PM   #22
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In the past we used a 3" level either the floor just inside the door or the kitchen counter top, either could be seen from the doorway. My wife would relay the results but it took some back and forth to get it right.

I now use one of these, can see it from in the rear view mirror and once you get used to it you can tell just how much lift you need.


As you mention though, it changes some just sitting there but never enough to relevel.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:52 PM   #23
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I'm not a geek by any means BUT. You can download a leveling APP for a smartphone or tablet. I use a couple, one is a GPS status app and the other is just a simple bubble app. Either one tells you how many degrees or hundreds of degrees you are off level. You have to decide what you want to be level. The fridge, floor, counter or whatever then go from there.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
The leveling spot I use is the inside of the fridge. The fridge is most sensitive to level.
I always and believe it's best to always level side to side by raising the low side wheel. There's numerous ways of doing that.
Once I had the bottom of fridge level I added stick on bubble levels to the outside near the belly band. One in the front and one on the non-door side. I use those to get close and verify inside the fridge.
Byron and I don't always agree.. but this one we DO. If you have an older frig, having IT level makes it more efficient. As far as sleeping... I'd rather my head be to the high side than my feet...
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:22 AM   #25
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I'm a really old guy, I've been RVing all my life.
I have found if I level the trailer enough to sleep comfortably and not slide out of bed that's close enough.
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:50 AM   #26
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Thank you for all of your information and support. I have found in my Scamp as Carol and others have said, that if the fridge bubble says level, other places in the trailer don't agree. 😃. That includes the counter top, floor and outside the trailer. For my fridge to say level this last time, the tongue level said it was actually a bit high in the front.

The side to side level problem I figured out as it was me being a dumb newb. I thought all was level as I only checked the tongue, but the little differences magnified near the rear end of the trailer. I had only thrown down the stabs. After hooking back up and rolling over a lynx leveler, problem solved.

I am still learning a lot and I think a lot about things to try and understand. I've come to exploring my mechanical side later in life, I'm 51. So everything I've learned here about my trailer, or through reading and asking questions of my mechanic, has all been a huge learning curve. I get mad at myself for doing dumb stuff, but after I fix it, I've generally learned something new that I hope stays somewhere accessible in my brain.

Cheers and gratis!

Wendy


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Old 07-04-2015, 11:12 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by stillwater View Post
I'm not a geek by any means BUT. You can download a leveling APP for a smartphone or tablet. I use a couple, one is a GPS status app and the other is just a simple bubble app. Either one tells you how many degrees or hundreds of degrees you are off level. You have to decide what you want to be level. The fridge, floor, counter or whatever then go from there.
Stillwater, thanks for the suggestion, I always, or almost always, have my “smarter than me” phone with me but always have to hunt down my bubble level.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:46 AM   #28
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Hi Stillwater,

Would you be able to share the name of your bubble app that's free? I read reviews on a few and people complained about ads and redirects interrupting the use of the level.

Thank you very much,
Wendy


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