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07-02-2015, 03:36 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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I agree with Byron and Darrell on this. Without transferring some weight to the stabilizers, you will get a lot of bounce from the trailer suspension and the movement will cause the stabilizers to work loose. After leveling side-to-side and front-to-back, I drop the tongue a few turns below level, deploy the stabilizers, and then raise the tongue back to level.
I note that the Atwood model in the link, which appears to be the same as that on my Scamp, is rated for 650 pounds lifting and 1000 pounds static.
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07-02-2015, 03:49 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Bob
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA
W. Mass
Posts: 440
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In the past we used a 3" level either the floor just inside the door or the kitchen counter top, either could be seen from the doorway. My wife would relay the results but it took some back and forth to get it right.
I now use one of these, can see it from in the rear view mirror and once you get used to it you can tell just how much lift you need.
As you mention though, it changes some just sitting there but never enough to relevel.
__________________
Bob & Deb
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07-02-2015, 04:52 PM
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#23
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Member
Name: Lyle
Trailer: '95 17ft Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 33
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I'm not a geek by any means BUT. You can download a leveling APP for a smartphone or tablet. I use a couple, one is a GPS status app and the other is just a simple bubble app. Either one tells you how many degrees or hundreds of degrees you are off level. You have to decide what you want to be level. The fridge, floor, counter or whatever then go from there.
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07-02-2015, 06:33 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
The leveling spot I use is the inside of the fridge. The fridge is most sensitive to level.
I always and believe it's best to always level side to side by raising the low side wheel. There's numerous ways of doing that.
Once I had the bottom of fridge level I added stick on bubble levels to the outside near the belly band. One in the front and one on the non-door side. I use those to get close and verify inside the fridge.
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Byron and I don't always agree.. but this one we DO. If you have an older frig, having IT level makes it more efficient. As far as sleeping... I'd rather my head be to the high side than my feet...
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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07-04-2015, 12:22 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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I'm a really old guy, I've been RVing all my life.
I have found if I level the trailer enough to sleep comfortably and not slide out of bed that's close enough.
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07-04-2015, 06:50 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 1,071
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Thank you for all of your information and support. I have found in my Scamp as Carol and others have said, that if the fridge bubble says level, other places in the trailer don't agree. 😃. That includes the counter top, floor and outside the trailer. For my fridge to say level this last time, the tongue level said it was actually a bit high in the front.
The side to side level problem I figured out as it was me being a dumb newb. I thought all was level as I only checked the tongue, but the little differences magnified near the rear end of the trailer. I had only thrown down the stabs. After hooking back up and rolling over a lynx leveler, problem solved.
I am still learning a lot and I think a lot about things to try and understand. I've come to exploring my mechanical side later in life, I'm 51. So everything I've learned here about my trailer, or through reading and asking questions of my mechanic, has all been a huge learning curve. I get mad at myself for doing dumb stuff, but after I fix it, I've generally learned something new that I hope stays somewhere accessible in my brain.
Cheers and gratis!
Wendy
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-04-2015, 10:12 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Pat
Trailer: Escape 17B Sold 5/2016
Washington
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stillwater
I'm not a geek by any means BUT. You can download a leveling APP for a smartphone or tablet. I use a couple, one is a GPS status app and the other is just a simple bubble app. Either one tells you how many degrees or hundreds of degrees you are off level. You have to decide what you want to be level. The fridge, floor, counter or whatever then go from there.
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Stillwater, thanks for the suggestion, I always, or almost always, have my “smarter than me” phone with me but always have to hunt down my bubble level.
__________________
Pat
Life is Good
When "Escaping Reality" Sold 5/2016
2012 4Runner Ltd
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07-04-2015, 10:46 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 1,071
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Hi Stillwater,
Would you be able to share the name of your bubble app that's free? I read reviews on a few and people complained about ads and redirects interrupting the use of the level.
Thank you very much,
Wendy
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-04-2015, 12:04 PM
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#29
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Member
Name: Lyle
Trailer: '95 17ft Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 33
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One app is simply called "Bubble Level" by Antoine Vianey and the other is
"Best Level Bubble Level" by Codifie, inc both are free apps in android playstore. Neither one has any popups on my Tablet. Another app called "Bubble Level-Spirit Level" I just tried and it has annoying popups ads when you try and exit so I garbaged that one.
BTW, if our trailer is sitting high on the left hand side meaning opposite the door I always try to dig that side down with a shovel to level the trailer rather than blocking up the other (door)side. I know you can't always do it but in the country we camp in it's usually possible. By doing this it keeps the step closer to the ground rather than it being raised a couple of inches with blocking. And yes we always pull ahead and fill the divot before we leave.
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07-04-2015, 12:43 PM
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#30
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,584
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While the efficiency of the fridge is best when perfectly level, the Domentic specification states that the fridge should be level within 7 degrees. To get a feel for what this angle is, if you take a regular old piece of paper (8.5 inches wide) held vertical, and rotate it on one corner, when the other bottom corner is 1 inch off the surface it's at 7 degrees.
Pic is my digital protractor used to create odd angles for my products opened to 7 degrees .
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07-04-2015, 01:09 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Can you please post the exact Dometic source and date of publication for that number... I have never seen it and would like to have the reference for future use.
That said, it would only apply to Dometic Refrigerators with the late boiler design, identified by having a curved boiler cover.
Those with the older style boilers, identified by having a square boiler cover, would not tolerated being operated that far out of level. The early units were even shipped with a bull's-eye level to assure proper leveling.
Here is a Dometic Publication explaining the differences: http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/r...ice-manual.pdf
http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/r...ice-manual.pdf
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07-04-2015, 05:13 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Mine is simply "iHandy Level".
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