Spot on trailer to test for level?

[CampyTime]

A while back nice folks here taught me how to level front to back using tongue jack and stabs.

My bubble level on coupler area was spot on when I arrived yesterday and thought I was good. Came back from walk this am and noticed rear end of trailer, dinette galley side, looked low. Sure enough, put level on bumper and she was tipped low. So I used the bar tool and lifted the stab on that side. Not perfect, but better than it was.

So in future, what spots(s) on trailer should I check for side to side level? Tongue is deceiving! Further, I added no more Lynx levelers to rear side that was low ( both sides have two under each). Should I have removed one from higher side, or added other to low side? This has always, and I mean always, been confusing to me, insomuch as course of action to take. Seems when you monkey with the levelers much, then the front of the trailer gets thrown off.

I would appreciate any/all replies to help my pea brain out with some simple understandings!

Cheers,

Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Eddie Longest]

Wendy
The further from your reference point the greater the error in height. Think a drain line with a fall of 1/4" per foot. 4ft=1" 8ft=2" 12ft=3" The angle stays the same but the height error is greater further from your reference point. An error which can hardly be seen on your tongue bubble is amplified in heigth by the time it reaches the rear bumper. If you are really hung up on being level place your indicators above the belly band on the center of two sides of the trailer. When placing your indicators outside reference them to the frige, stove top for cooking or floor, which ever you is most important to you. This makes it more of a PITA to set up but more accurate.

Also when using the plastic levelers place the solid side to the ground.
FWIW for me I can live with 1/2 bubble error.
Eddie

[Bob Miller]

I would first level my trailer using a bubble level inside the refrigerator on one of the wire shelves. Then I would look around on different stable places, like counter tops, floor etc. until I found a place that agreed with the refrigerator as being level. I found a place on my sink counter that works great,


Of course you could also just put a couple of stick-on bubble levels on the outside, one in front center and one over the axle center, and use those.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

A while back nice folks here taught me how to level front to back using tongue jack and stabs.

My bubble level on coupler area was spot on when I arrived yesterday and thought I was good. Came back from walk this am and noticed rear end of trailer, dinette galley side, looked low. Sure enough, put level on bumper and she was tipped low. So I used the bar tool and lifted the stab on that side. Not perfect, but better than it was.

So in future, what spots(s) on trailer should I check for side to side level? Tongue is deceiving! Further, I added no more Lynx levelers to rear side that was low ( both sides have two under each). Should I have removed one from higher side, or added other to low side? This has always, and I mean always, been confusing to me, insomuch as course of action to take. Seems when you monkey with the levelers much, then the front of the trailer gets thrown off.

I would appreciate any/all replies to help my pea brain out with some simple understandings!

Cheers,

Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

The leveling spot I use is the inside of the fridge. The fridge is most sensitive to level.
I always and believe it's best to always level side to side by raising the low side wheel. There's numerous ways of doing that.
Once I had the bottom of fridge level I added stick on bubble levels to the outside near the belly band. One in the front and one on the non-door side. I use those to get close and verify inside the fridge.

[Jon in AZ]

I like Bob's idea of finding a place on the counter that agrees with the fridge. I put a round bubble level on the counter between stove & sink. Goes back in the silverware drawer when done. The first time I used it, I double-checked the end result using a carpenter's level in several places, and it seemed to do fine. I don't think I would want to be opening and closing the fridge numerous times just to level the trailer. You lose a lot of cooled air every time you open the door, and absorption fridges are slow to re-cool.

[CampyTime]

I've always raised the low side wheel since being taught that here, too but this time, since tongue was so perfect spot on, I didn't feel any levelers under tires were necessary as all seemed lovely.

Eddie, I understand what you mean by the gradient and levels being amplified as you travel down the trailer now. It's just that tongue was spot on, so I felt no levelers under tires or anything was necessary.

As I said, still low and just checked inside of fridge and it's definitely reflected off level there.

Checking galley top I get all different kinds of readings. Just depends on where I put it.




Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Jon in AZ]

You may get various readings due to some waviness in the fiberglass, but it's hard to imagine it being dramatically different from one spot on the counter to another. As long as the bubble is within the circle on mine, I cannot detect any slant when I am sleeping, and I am pretty sure the fridge would be fine, too. (We only have an icebox, used for dry storage, so of course it doesn't care!)

I suppose it is possible your fridge is significantly out of alignment with the galley cabinet. Have you checked into that?

[Darral T.]

I mounted small bubble levels on my Scamp. One under the bellyband centered on the back window; and one on the tongue for front to rear leveling to have it near my front jack.

But the BIG question was, how do I know it was level when I mounted these??? I used a longer level....say 4' for front to back trying it on the floor, cabinet etc. Then I went crossways and I was using a 2' level. (Didnt check side to side using 4' on the benches...might be worthwhile. I'll state that this leveling was done while it was parked as I am when I'm camping. Sitting on the wheels and leveled side to side. Then front to back with the front jack. I use the rear stabilizers simply for that...stabilizing. I might tweek my bubble a bit with one side or the other when necessary.

Just keep in mind, you may try the table and it's out...try the floor and it's in..... so you have to pick the best choice and go with it. Honestly, I feel the top/roof of the Scamp MAY be the most accurate? Dunno. But I DO know we live inside and that's what I leveled. Another thing I ran into...you can use a small level on the sink cabinet...it can and WILL vary from side to side and end to end. So be careful there.

Anyway, NEVER had a problem using my method mentioned above for establishing the small levels then using them to set up camp for the past few years. There's a misconception that you MUST have the fridge 100% level or it wont work. That is not true. BUT, it needs to be as close as possible then it will work fine....or has for me.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

I mounted small bubble levels on my Scamp. One under the bellyband centered on the back window; and one on the tongue for front to rear leveling to have it near my front jack.

But the BIG question was, how do I know it was level when I mounted these??? I used a longer level....say 4' for front to back trying it on the floor, cabinet etc. Then I went crossways and I was using a 2' level. (Didnt check side to side using 4' on the benches...might be worthwhile. I'll state that this leveling was done while it was parked as I am when I'm camping. Sitting on the wheels and leveled side to side. Then front to back with the front jack. I use the rear stabilizers simply for that...stabilizing. I might tweek my bubble a bit with one side or the other when necessary.

Just keep in mind, you may try the table and it's out...try the floor and it's in..... so you have to pick the best choice and go with it. Honestly, I feel the top/roof of the Scamp MAY be the most accurate? Dunno. But I DO know we live inside and that's what I leveled. Another thing I ran into...you can use a small level on the sink cabinet...it can and WILL vary from side to side and end to end. So be careful there.

Anyway, NEVER had a problem using my method mentioned above for establishing the small levels then using them to set up camp for the past few years. There's a misconception that you MUST have the fridge 100% level or it wont work. That is not true. BUT, it needs to be as close as possible then it will work fine....or has for me.

I have found that the closer to perfectly level the fridge the better it works. That's why I prefer to use the bottom inside of the fridge as the level point.

Once you have the fridge level you can add levels as shown below. Then you only have to check the fridge level after you've leveled with the outside levels. It's not rocket science.

This has worked well for me for over 1000 nights.

[Wayne Collins]

There's no need to be paranoid about how level the fridge is. It should have been installed correctly at the factory ...with the interior floor also level.
A degree or three off will not affect it.
I have a two way bubble level on the front hitch that lets me get "close enough for all practical purposes; and more accurate bubble levels, one on the left side above the tire, and one at the center back below the belly band. Those were stuck on while the trailer sat level, checked with a carpenter's level, on the floor inside the door.
Once in your campsite, your first job is to get level side to side. Use your lynx levelers under the low side. I see some folks using them under the stabilizers too, but I carry wood blocks for that. Once you're level side to side, chock the tires, unhitch, then jack the hitch up or down to level fore-aft - but with the front low by half a bubble. Drop your rear stabilizers and add blocks if needed. Then raise the front to level so you have good pressure on the stabilizers which also takes some weight off the tires and axle.
HAPPY CAMPING!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by CampyTime

So in future, what spots(s) on trailer should I check for side to side level? T

If you have a fridge - use the bottom of it or the freezer compartment to determine if your level or not as its what is most sensitive to being out of level.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

There's no need to be paranoid about how level the fridge is. It should have been installed correctly at the factory ...with the interior floor also level.

LOL all I can say what is level to my fridge is not what the main floor of my Scamp says is level I also know I am not the only one here with a Scamp who has discovered that issue. And yes mine is an original install as done at the factory as is the floor.

Either way its not out by enough for me to even notice the floor of the trailer is not spot on if I level to the fridge rather than the floor - which I do as I like to have a happy fridge.

[beckyruns]

We use to bubble level in the refrigerator. We have found that if we place the bubble on the outer frame that surrounds the refrigerator, we will get a different reading when compared with what we get on the floor or shelves of the refrigerator.

[Bob Miller]

Refrigerator leveling.... here we go again. Leveling your refrigerator CAN be rocket science, especially if it is one of the earlier design Dometics.


I just posted most of this in another thread, but everyone should reread it, especially the reference in the link I posted.
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"There are TWO different Dometic refrigerator versions out there, early and late. The early ones, with the "Square" boiler cover, are very sensitive to being level and, when they stop working, the "inversion" technique may help, but don't count on it working. It's usually the end for the refrigerator.

Late ones have a curved boiler cover and, while they are less sensitive to being level, can have problems if used drastically out of level. However, the later ones usually self-correct if allowed to cool and are restarted in a level condition.
Here's a link to a Dometic publication on that topic, look on Page 45."
http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/r...ice-manual.pdf
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The bottom of the box MAY NOT be flat, so I suggest that a wire shelf be used (as long as that is not bent into a curve. Likewise, I have found that the floor of the freezer section may not be parallel to the box itself either and, on some models, such as the RM-2191 & RM-2193, there is no freezer section.


Again, it's all about the refrigerator, if it's not happy, no one is going to be happy... LOL

[Fred-Linda]

After owning 5 different motorhomes since 1976, we downsized a few years ago to our "Little Joe" which we love and use the same simple leveling process that we learned years ago with the motorhomes - - - simply swing open the refrigerator door and when it stays put in all positions, the rig is level.

Works for me, but some people think that is too elementary. (I do also have a level on the outside rear and side, so a double-check but they always match.)

. . . . Fred

[OneOleMan]

“Escaping Reality" came from the factory with the stick on bubble levels, one center rear just above the bellyband, one center passenger side just above the bellyband and this is all I use for verifying its being level. I've never been anal about the refrigerator being level and, so far, it's never been a problem with this or other trailers and campers I've had.

When leveling the trailer side to side I use the Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler.

Robot Check

They are a bit pricey but oh so easy to use and also act as a wheel chock on the side being raised.

I do, respectfully, disagree with Wayne regarding extending the rear stabilizers then raising the front of the trailer. In most cases the stabilizers are simply that, stabilizers, and unless they're the scissor type they're not meant to carry weight. I've always leveled side to side first then, using the tongue jack, front to back and finally lower the stabalizers firmly onto some Camco leveling blocks.

Now it's time be be a happy camper.

[Fred-Linda]

Agree with "OneOleMan". Stabilizers are not jacks.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Fred-Linda

simply swing open the refrigerator door and when it stays put in all positions, the rig is level.

And the fridge will be at 80F inside.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by OneOleMan

“Escaping Reality" came from the factory with the stick on bubble levels, one center rear just above the bellyband, one center passenger side just above the bellyband and this is all I use for verifying its being level. I've never been anal about the refrigerator being level and, so far, it's never been a problem with this or other trailers and campers I've had.

When leveling the trailer side to side I use the Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler.

Robot Check

They are a bit pricey but oh so easy to use and also act as a wheel chock on the side being raised.

I do, respectfully, disagree with Wayne regarding extending the rear stabilizers then raising the front of the trailer. In most cases the stabilizers are simply that, stabilizers, and unless they're the scissor type they're not meant to carry weight. I've always leveled side to side first then, using the tongue jack, front to back and finally lower the stabalizers firmly onto some Camco leveling blocks.

Now it's time be be a happy camper.

However Atwood Stabilizers don't work very good without some pressure on them. That the reason for 1/2 bubble and only 1/2 bubble. Not enough to raise the wheels but enough to apply enough pressure to keep the trailer "STABILIZED".
EDIT -- Atwood calls them "Stabilizer Jacks". Read their manual here.

[Darral T.]

Yup..it took me awhile to get that "concept" if you'll remember. Level on the wheels and stabilize ONLY with the stabilizers. As I mentioned earlier, I use them to "tweak" a bubble if needed.

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

However Atwood Stabilizers don't work very good without some pressure on them. That the reason for 1/2 bubble and only 1/2 bubble. Not enough to raise the wheels but enough to apply enough pressure to keep the trailer "STABILIZED".