Stainless steel stove - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-16-2005, 08:49 PM   #15
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I`m not familiar with the types of stainless steels, which I should be, but suppose that if they are attracted to a magnet they are ferrous based and if not they are nickel based.......check your top with a magnet.....in my 17' Boler, I`m sure the top is chrome plated and not stainless at all and not a good plating at that, with possibly very little nickel.....Benny
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:56 PM   #16
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A friend of mine uses a magnet to test Stainless Steel. Austentic Stainless has no magnetic responce. It also tends not to rust.

So when you are buying Stainless take a magnet.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:52 PM   #17
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Michael's friend has it right to a point, the most expensive common stainless is what we called the 300 series such as 301, 302 303 and 304. The 303 was a free machining stainless and we would die to get a job made with that as opposed to getting one with 302 or 304. The 300 series is a nonmagnetic steel and won't rust or corrode, whether anyone is making stoves from the 300 series I don't know. Its been 30-35 years since I've had to work with any amount of stainless but this type of product used to be made from the 400 series which is magnetic and is rust & corrosion resistent but will show signs of both and will clean up as Donna mentioned. I think of the inards of backyard grills and how they rot out and yet are advertised as stainless, must be real cheap stainless. If the stoves are still functional maybe the best way to go is to paint it with appliance paint but make sure ALL the grease and finger prints etc are cleaned off before painting for a permanant bond
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:36 AM   #18
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Okay, maybe I've created a monster here by encouraging the metallurgical discussion. As everyone seems to be realizing, magnetic behaviour is some indication of alloy and performance, but not consistent enough that I would depend on it. Maybe it would help if there was one alloy (identified by those numbers such as the 300-series) that we should look for; unfortunately, the best alloy for a stamped sheet surface is different from the best choice for a wire grid, and so on.

The only thing that I think deserves one more mention is that "ferrous" generally means "of, relating to, or containing iron" (see http://www.m-w.com/dictionary/ferrous); stainless steel is obviously steel, "steel" means an alloy of iron with carbon, and therefore, all stainless steel is ferrous. I don't think that the other dictionary meaning of ferrous is applicable to stainless steel; either "ferrous" is being used to mean "magnetic", or it was an incorrect reference to ferritic stainless steel.

I had heard of Eastwood long ago when I was looking into polishing some car parts. Their powder coating alternative sounds intriguing to me. Maybe someone doing several metal parts (stove top, furnace front panel, circuit breaker panel, etc) could get a nicely coordinated set of durably finished parts in their interior that way.
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:41 AM   #19
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I was looking to purchase new wheels for my new-old tug and one of my club members had a set for sale. He'd purchased a regular stove/oven at a garage sale, had his garage wired for 220 and used the oven (and Eastwood products) to powdercoat a set of 15" tall x 10" wide steel wheels. They look fabulous. And he said if I don't like the color, automotive paint will adhere to the powercoat with some prep work. I guess he only had the wheels in the oven baking for about 20 minutes each.
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Old 11-18-2005, 07:37 PM   #20
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Maggie, if your stove is origional, it is stainless. Read this article to learn more about it the problems you are having.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB-1.html

HTH,
Rich
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:53 AM   #21
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Hi Rich, That is a very interesting article. I may try it. I am still not sure if my stove is stainless. My sink is stainless and looks much different. I had the stove top sandblasted years ago. It came out all nice and shiny but overnight it was covered in rust. I cleaned it up and painted it. That's not working for me. So it's replace, strip and repaint, powdercoat, or now possibly repassivate. hmmm maybe there's a poll in my future.
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Old 11-19-2005, 01:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Maggie O.+Nov 19 2005, 10:53 AM-->
Quote:
...I am still not sure if my stove is stainless. My sink is stainless and looks much different.
...
Appearance depends so much on the brushing or polishing, I can't tell what anything is by comparison with another item of a known material. My Boler sink has a finish which is typical of kitchen sinks, and is much smoother than my Brown Stove Works stove top.

<!--QuoteBegin-Maggie O.
@Nov 19 2005, 10:53 AM
[b]...I had the stove top sandblasted years ago. It came out all nice and shiny but overnight it was covered in rust
...
Even plain steel or cast iron will be bright - although not polished - immediately after blasting; I think this could easily be plated, with the plating material now blasted off.


The previous page to the one quoted in the beer brewing reference (page B.0) has the cleaning description, which calls for cleansers based on oxalic acid. Thanks for an excellent reference, Rich; I will try this type of cleanser on my stove top.

The explanation in that reference of how non-stainless steel wool will cause surface corrosion of stainless steel reminds me of one of the challenges faced by Delorean car owners: they have brushed stainless steel body panels, and small scratches can be fixed by re-brushing the area. Some owners have used steel wool to do this, which works (if you are good at it and use very fine wool) but leaves rust marks unless stainless steel wool is used for the repair.
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Old 11-19-2005, 01:22 PM   #23
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Hi... Last post had it correct with the magnet and stainless steel, a lower grade of stainless like 304 will attract a magnet slightly grade 316 as used in hospital equipment is even less, if you have a strong pull with the magnet its chromed mild steel, Paul smith (welder )Orlando fl
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Old 11-19-2005, 02:46 PM   #24
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Plated with the plating gone is my guess. In which case a new stainless top would be a big improvement.
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Old 11-19-2005, 08:43 PM   #25
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Maggie, if you had it sandblasted and it rusted overnight, I would bet every dollar in my pocket (luckly there are not many) that the sandblasting had metal in the mix from previous work. That impreginated your stainless top and caused the rust. I dont know if the pits are deep enough that they wont come out but the surface rust will go away with Bar Keepers Friend (oxalic acid based cleaner). I did mine and it cleaned up nicely except the deep pits where I couldnt get in with the green scrubbie and now the burner grates continue to rub and makes new rust. I could avoid the grate problem by having stainless grates made but at the price of stainless nowdays, I can live with it.

Maggie, if your stove is origional, it is stainless. If you give up on your current stove and go for a replacement, PM me. I have ideas for a more aggressive cleaning methods but they are untested.

Rich
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