Storing your Egg - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-14-2010, 09:01 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Quote:
As far as I can tell there is nothing sealing the rivets when it was originally made so silicone must be an improvement. I don't like the idea of putting tape over them as it would look ugly.
Well silicone is only a temporary solution and is an absolute $%!* to get off! I think Raya's suggestion of tape... was only meant to be a temporary solution, but at least one you wouldn't be cursing trying to remove, unlike silicone.

And clear silicone only stays clear for a very short time. It turns yellow, dirt and crud get embedded into and now you've got a real mess to clean up.
__________________

__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:16 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Raya's Avatar
 
Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,014
Thanks, Donna, and you read me exactly as I meant it

Just to clarify:

1) Leaks should not be left unchecked (unless the egg is under cover of course).
2) To really solve the leaks, you'll need to re-bed whatever is leaking (i.e. remove whatever is leaking - rivet, window, vent, etc. - clean the substrate, and then re-install the item with bedding (butyl, etc.) under the flange - not on top!.

However, you were asking about storing the egg, and since that's usually the off-season, when it is often cold outside, I offered 3M #225 tape as a temporary solution that would get you by for a few months and then be easily removable when you wanted to fix the leaks properly. I didn't figure you would be using the egg with the tape on it, so I wasn't thinking the cosmetics would be a problem (If I mis-understood and you were asking about a long-term fix I'm sorry about that.)

In my opinion, leaving the leaks - even if only short term - is not a good idea, as moisture from leaks is probably the number one "killer" of our eggs.

I would strongly suggest you do not use silicone. There are two problems with it:

1) It will usually not do the job very effectively (not as effectively as butyl, for example).
2) It will often be extremely hard to remove , and even when you have "removed" it, an invisible contaminating oil will remain. This oil will make it hard for any new sealant to stick, and will be-devil you if you (or anyone else) ever wants to paint the egg.

I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

I hope that clarifies - and sorry if I caused confusion.

Raya
__________________

__________________
Raya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #17
Junior Member
 
Rudy_Z24's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1973 13 ft Boler
Posts: 23
Quote:
I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

Raya
Butyl is what people like? I think I have some of that in a ball zip-locked but I didn't know what people call it. Similar to electrical duct seal tape except grey instead of black. I'll give that a shot and see if it seals the rivet leaks. I was planning new rivets anyways as a few of the ones that hold the cabinet above the kitchen are starting to largen the holes. No good! Hence the small leaks.

__________________
Rudy_Z24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2010, 09:07 PM   #18
Member
 
Kevin Poll's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / 2002 Honda Odyssey
Posts: 57
i'd like to add that it is important to pay close attention if your trailer is stored during a period of time that might be humid and/or cool at the same time. Even with leaks fixed, moisture vapour will still find it way into the trailer ( I am pretty sure most aren't hermetically sealed, my trillium has drain holes in the holds even if I close everything else up). Some moisture vapour in the trailer becomes a problem when parts of the inside are colder than the dewpoint of the outside air. The resulting condensation can drip and pool and if it gets onto anything organic can grow into mold.
here is a link to a very good online calculator that helps to monitor the likelyhood of mold, rust and rot when things are stored in different environments.

http://www.dpcalc.org/

I bring this up because where you live may have a lot to do with how easy or difficult it is to store without problems. A lightbulb or chemical dessicant may be fine for someone with a cold dry winter (or nothing at all may be needed) but if you are in a damp region with warmer days and cool nights, bigger steps may be needed.

-Kevin
__________________
Kevin Poll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2010, 03:14 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Roger C H's Avatar
 
Name: Roger
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300 "Homelet"/2014 Subaru Outback "Rosie"
Washington
Posts: 2,172
Registry
Unhappy

Quote:
To winterize, I remove all cloth and paper items from my trailer, cover and leave a 75 watt bulb on. The moisture just sucks into any cloth/paper and helps the mold, so I store those items in my closet...the bulb keeps it just a bit warmer so the air is a bit dryer....though the "heat" does tend to stratify in the trailer.
My grandfather used a light bulb in his chicken coop so that the roosters' combs wouldn't freeze. It wasn't all that effective until he placed it inside a vertical piece of ducting. I suppose a large can would also work. It provided a 'chimney effect' which kept the warm air circulating.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!

Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
Roger C H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2010, 10:57 PM   #20
Junior Member
 
Rudy_Z24's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1973 13 ft Boler
Posts: 23
Finally finished the rivets, re-did all the ones with acorn nuts on the inside (ie: none of the curtain rivets). Added a washer on the outside to distribute the pressure better and compressed it with butyl in the hole. I want to order new curtain holders from Scamp and will do that on a camping trip.

Have not put it back outside, still have to clean the inside with some bleach and then soap. Also got new foam for the cushions this year. GOing to be nice!

Next job is a new axle.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_4005z.JPG  
__________________

__________________
Rudy_Z24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
eggcamper


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Storing Toilet Paper Roll in Toilet-Shower Combo S Sato Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 24 04-18-2015 01:46 PM
Storing Awning Pole Carol H Modifications, Alterations and Updates 5 05-01-2009 12:09 AM
Pantry organization- how are you storing your food? Bobbie Mayer Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 15 04-30-2008 04:38 PM
Storing security Quint General Chat 4 01-16-2006 10:27 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.