Storing your Egg - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 01-14-2010, 08:01 PM   #15
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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As far as I can tell there is nothing sealing the rivets when it was originally made so silicone must be an improvement. I don't like the idea of putting tape over them as it would look ugly.
Well silicone is only a temporary solution and is an absolute $%!* to get off! I think Raya's suggestion of tape... was only meant to be a temporary solution, but at least one you wouldn't be cursing trying to remove, unlike silicone.

And clear silicone only stays clear for a very short time. It turns yellow, dirt and crud get embedded into and now you've got a real mess to clean up.

Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:16 PM   #16
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Thanks, Donna, and you read me exactly as I meant it

Just to clarify:

1) Leaks should not be left unchecked (unless the egg is under cover of course).
2) To really solve the leaks, you'll need to re-bed whatever is leaking (i.e. remove whatever is leaking - rivet, window, vent, etc. - clean the substrate, and then re-install the item with bedding (butyl, etc.) under the flange - not on top!.

However, you were asking about storing the egg, and since that's usually the off-season, when it is often cold outside, I offered 3M #225 tape as a temporary solution that would get you by for a few months and then be easily removable when you wanted to fix the leaks properly. I didn't figure you would be using the egg with the tape on it, so I wasn't thinking the cosmetics would be a problem (If I mis-understood and you were asking about a long-term fix I'm sorry about that.)

In my opinion, leaving the leaks - even if only short term - is not a good idea, as moisture from leaks is probably the number one "killer" of our eggs.

I would strongly suggest you do not use silicone. There are two problems with it:

1) It will usually not do the job very effectively (not as effectively as butyl, for example).
2) It will often be extremely hard to remove , and even when you have "removed" it, an invisible contaminating oil will remain. This oil will make it hard for any new sealant to stick, and will be-devil you if you (or anyone else) ever wants to paint the egg.

I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

I hope that clarifies - and sorry if I caused confusion.


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Old 01-16-2010, 05:56 PM   #17
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Trailer: 1973 13 ft Boler
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I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

Butyl is what people like? I think I have some of that in a ball zip-locked but I didn't know what people call it. Similar to electrical duct seal tape except grey instead of black. I'll give that a shot and see if it seals the rivet leaks. I was planning new rivets anyways as a few of the ones that hold the cabinet above the kitchen are starting to largen the holes. No good! Hence the small leaks.

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Old 01-17-2010, 08:07 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / 2002 Honda Odyssey
Posts: 57
i'd like to add that it is important to pay close attention if your trailer is stored during a period of time that might be humid and/or cool at the same time. Even with leaks fixed, moisture vapour will still find it way into the trailer ( I am pretty sure most aren't hermetically sealed, my trillium has drain holes in the holds even if I close everything else up). Some moisture vapour in the trailer becomes a problem when parts of the inside are colder than the dewpoint of the outside air. The resulting condensation can drip and pool and if it gets onto anything organic can grow into mold.
here is a link to a very good online calculator that helps to monitor the likelyhood of mold, rust and rot when things are stored in different environments.

I bring this up because where you live may have a lot to do with how easy or difficult it is to store without problems. A lightbulb or chemical dessicant may be fine for someone with a cold dry winter (or nothing at all may be needed) but if you are in a damp region with warmer days and cool nights, bigger steps may be needed.

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Old 01-18-2010, 02:14 AM   #19
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Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300 "Homelet"/2014 Subaru Outback "Rosie"
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To winterize, I remove all cloth and paper items from my trailer, cover and leave a 75 watt bulb on. The moisture just sucks into any cloth/paper and helps the mold, so I store those items in my closet...the bulb keeps it just a bit warmer so the air is a bit dryer....though the "heat" does tend to stratify in the trailer.
My grandfather used a light bulb in his chicken coop so that the roosters' combs wouldn't freeze. It wasn't all that effective until he placed it inside a vertical piece of ducting. I suppose a large can would also work. It provided a 'chimney effect' which kept the warm air circulating.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:57 PM   #20
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Trailer: 1973 13 ft Boler
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Finally finished the rivets, re-did all the ones with acorn nuts on the inside (ie: none of the curtain rivets). Added a washer on the outside to distribute the pressure better and compressed it with butyl in the hole. I want to order new curtain holders from Scamp and will do that on a camping trip.

Have not put it back outside, still have to clean the inside with some bleach and then soap. Also got new foam for the cushions this year. GOing to be nice!

Next job is a new axle.
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