Tightening hitch/lug nuts - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:13 AM   #21
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Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
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For anyone perhaps unfamiliar with torquing requirements, and with determining proper torque:

Proper torque is related to the size/grade etc. of the bolt itself and is not specific to the item the bolt is used on.

Here's a link to a key to determing type/grade of the bolt:
Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart

And here's a link to the chart we use for determining starting torque. There can be a bit of variation due to conditions, but this is the ball park we play in:
Bolt Torque Chart | Portland Bolt

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Old 11-18-2012, 05:23 PM   #22
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Name: george
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Missouri
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Jared,
That looks to be a good solution to the problem ! On my BlueOx hitch, the pieces that make up the stinger are solid material, rather than tube stock. And the use of grade eight bolts in that application is a good idea as well. When using grade 8 bolts and nuts, one should ensure they are using hardened washers as well. Some people call them "grade 8" washers, although there is disagreement as to whether the hardened washers are actually called grade 8 or not. Some folks who sell them, call them as grade eight....whatever, make sure they are "hardened" as less washers can actually "flatten out" ( yield ) over time, resulting in yet again, a loose fastener.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:32 PM   #23
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Name: Jared
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Kansas
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Agreed. The originals were grade five. I switched to grade 8, and german torqued them. I had to get longer ones anyway. There's a horrible misconception out there that grade 8 is more brittle and will crack easier than five. Those people have never checked out the yield and tensile strength between the two. If a grade 8 fastener cracks, the grade five will have snapped long before.
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