To grease or not to grease? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-16-2009, 11:26 AM   #15
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My coupler mechanism is very stiff with rust, the last time it was hitched, we had to pound on the latch to close it. What is the best way to loosen up the mechanism? WD-40?
Move to Colorado.... we "usually" (Lot of storms this year) have very low humidity and very little rust.

Seriously, I'm from Illinois, originally, and everything rusts back there. The used motor oil will work but I'd suggest getting some good Rust Penetrant and soak it good, then perhaps lubricate with some clean spray oil of some kind. WD-40 is basically just Mineral Oil with a Kerosene carrier, but it works well for a lot of things. It's NOT, however, a Rust Penetrant. Liquid Wrench is one that comes to mind. If you can find some KROIL , or CHESTERTON RUST SOLVO, those are the best two I've ever seen. ( I used to sell the Chesterton Products, but my supply is getting low) Call Pioneer Industrial in Danville, Illinois and they will have the Chesterton products.

I always grease the ball but just wanted to start a thread and see what others thought.

Good luck.

EKW
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:48 AM   #16
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Anne, a good cleaning and lubricating of the inside workings of the hitch is necessary, both for performance and safety.

A good cleaning like Keith described would be the first start. WD-40 will clean things up good and help loosen the workings, but will not get rid of the rust, you could use a small wire brush to get any flakes off. The wee bit of rust that is left might not be a problem though.

I would not use motor oil as a lube though, as it is too viscous. A good grease will hold in place for a long time. You could use your fingers, a small stiff bristled brush to get grease into the corners on the hitch. After this I would get a rag and clean out all you can that is on the inner surfaces (of course the outer too, should you have gotten some on there). This will get rid of the excess grease not needed. All you need in addition to this is a thin smear on the ball before hooking up.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:05 PM   #17
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I just use the wd40 on it's own to eliminate the noise issues. The official ball grease gets filthy and I can't find it half the time.

But I can't find my glasses half the time either.

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Old 06-16-2009, 12:07 PM   #18
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"PB" is the best lubricant/rust dissolver I have used.. much better than wd-40 it should be loacted on the same shelf as WD-40 at your local auto parts store or hardware store
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:22 PM   #19
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I just use the wd40 on it's own to eliminate the noise issues. The official ball grease gets filthy and I can't find it half the time.
Even a bit dirty, a good grease is still way better then none at all. A quick wipe with a piece of paper towel of the ball, and inside the hitch, will clean it good. A wee smear again on the ball and all is good.

I finally put together in a soft sided tool bag a complete toot/repair kit. This is where I keep the grease and it is always accessible in the tow vehicle. So far, so good in having what I need easily available.

On a side note, on something related and not mentioned here, is to check the adjustment of the ball latch on the hitch. Too tight and it is real hard to close, but too loose you risk excessive wear or even possibly failure (the hitch coming of the ball even though latched).
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:24 PM   #20
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"PB" is the best lubricant/rust dissolver I have used.. much better than wd-40 it should be loacted on the same shelf as WD-40 at your local auto parts store or hardware store
I am not familiar with this product Phillip, do you have a link to it? It could be that it is not available north of the 49th.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:04 PM   #21
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Here you go

http://www.pbblaster.com/products.html

Bill K

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I am not familiar with this product Phillip, do you have a link to it? It could be that it is not available north of the 49th.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:57 PM   #22
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Thanks for the link Bill.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:08 PM   #23
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I wasn't even aware one was supposed to grease the ball. But it makes so much sense. This is a very timely posting as we have just upgraded our hitch and ball to 2" so with everything new, we will start greasing! Thanks all for the wealth of info on this site.

Dianne
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:35 AM   #24
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I used to grease the hitch and shortly after the dust accumulated would make things dirty and if you got within a few feet of the ball your clothes were covered with black grime. Now I oil the mechanism well and spray the ball and coupler insides with WD 40.

"Red Green would love it."
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:52 AM   #25
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We started using vaseline on the ball and the noise went away like that. What a relief on these bumpy Winnipeg streets. I'm also thinking though, that some of the clacking noise from the hitch could possibly be caused by the tongue weight being too light.
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:27 PM   #26
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some of the clanking can be the hitch itself moving around in the receiver. mine clanks and what not on bumpy roads, i just ignore it. if it really bothers you you can add shims in there but a trailer is just gonna make noise sometimes.
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Old 06-17-2009, 05:03 PM   #27
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I bought one of these and it stops the rattle. Looking at the competition, they have double nutted the bolt, which I think is a good idea since I lost the plastic knob the first big trip out.


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Old 06-17-2009, 09:48 PM   #28
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I finally put together in a soft sided tool bag a complete toot/repair kit. This is where I keep the grease and it is always accessible in the tow vehicle. So far, so good in having what I need easily available.

On a side note, on something related and not mentioned here, is to check the adjustment of the ball latch on the hitch. Too tight and it is real hard to close, but too loose you risk excessive wear or even possibly failure (the hitch coming of the ball even though latched).
Jim,
What else do you put in your repair kit? I'm writing down a shopping list from this thread. How do I check the adjustment of the latch? I don't know what the coupler that I have is called, but it has a sliding collar type of mechanism with a spring loaded bar on the side that slides under the collar when open. Does that make sense?
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