To grease or not to grease?

[Liz&Kev]

All my years towing with a ball, and we're talking into swamps and out, plus run of the mill towing, I've never had a need to lube up the ball. Wipe it clean before storing it, and that's it.

Kev

[Mr. W.]

One other consideration is that the hitch ball is the most effective ground path for your trailer lights. The puny little white wire in the harness isn't really adequate for a good ground, and you can have all sorts of weird anomalies with the lights. This is especially the case if you have brakes or a 12v refrigerator. Drive a few miles, and everything starts working properly. That's because the movement cleans up the friction surfaces of the ball and coupler, giving a solid ground.

Some greases are conductive, and some aren't. So, some will still allow a good ground, and some won't.

My personal feeling is that since the hitch ball and coupler are dis-similar metals (to a degree), they have dis-similar hardness. Therefore, they create a self-lubricating bearing surface. This theory seems to be born out over many tens of thousands of towing miles without lubricating the connection. I'm not a chemist by any stretch, but if I start with a clean ball and coupler, and tow several hundred miles, at the end I have a nicely lubricated connection. The difference, though, is that this "lubricant" is ferrous, and therefore conductive for the ground. And I have never seen any discernible wear on either the ball or coupler.

Will grease lubricate better? No doubt, for the first few miles. After that, it has picked up so much road grit (this connection isn't sealed like a wheel bearing is) that I suspect it actually becomes abrasive. At least, that's my concern.

[Darwin Maring]

The ball that costs less than $15 and can B replaced so easy is the least of your worries. It's the guts of your hitch that you need to be concerned about. Let a part get worn and what R U going to do? I have never seen another hitch like on the Scamp 5r anywhere.

Never count on the hitch for grounding. B sure to have a good ground and in my case I use a battery jumper camle clamp with a wire to the camper frame and clamp it to the tug to provide for 1 additional ground.

[Jim Bennett]

A trailer ball/hitch connection should NEVER be relied on for a good electrical ground, an adequately sized conductor is the only proper way to do it.

I find it really disturbing that some folks here are promoting not using a proper grease, or a substitute that is not adequate for the purpose intended. There is a reason that manufacturers say to use a lubricant, that is because it works. I have had a Class I license (big rigs) and all vehicles I have operated always use lubricants on hitches (other then pintle hitches), whether ball or 5th wheel connections. Any transport type company will insist upon it.

The ball/hitch connection will pick up very little dust. I usually wipe clean the ball and coupler clean every 2 or 3 days, all dependent upon towing conditions, then add another THIN coat of grease to the ball. The usually takes about a minute to do.

[Darwin Maring]

Grease the ball and protect your investment. The small inconvenience of cleaning the ball is a minor thing to put up with to say the least.

[Donna D.]

I bought a shiny chrome 6000# ball at U-haul. Sigh, forgot to grease it ONCE and wore off some of the chrome, now it rusts in spots. I haven't forgotten since and the rest is staying shiny. Seems to me that's proof enough grease or a lubricant is needed. Metal on metal, something is bound to give.

[Roger C H]

Found this on the internet



8.2.6.1. Coupler and Ball
The coupler on the trailer connects to the ball attached to the hitch on the tow vehicle. The coupler, ball and hitch transfer the towing forces between the tow vehicle and the trailer. Before each tow, coat the ball with a thin layer of automotive bearing grease to reduce wear and ensure proper operation; and check the locking device that secures the coupler to the ball for proper operation.

See the coupler manufacturer's manual for other inspection and maintenance activities. If you do not have this manual, call Classic Manufacturing, Inc. at 269-651-9319 for a free copy.

If you see or feel evidence of wear, such as flat spots, deformations, pitting or corrosion, on the ball or coupler, immediately have your dealer inspect them to determine the proper action to prevent possible failure of the ball and coupler system. All bent or broken coupler parts must be replaced before towing the trailer.

The coupler handle lever must be able to rotate freely and automatically snap into the latched position. Oil the pivot points, sliding surfaces, and spring ends with SAE 30W motor oil. Keep the ball pocket and latch mechanism clean. Dirt or contamination can prevent proper operation of the latching mechanism. When replacing a ball, the load rating must match or exceed the GVWR of the trailer.

http://www.classicmfg.com/manual4.htm#8.2.6.1
For what it is worth.

[Chester Taje]

And thats what my instructions say.

[Bill MacDermod]

I bought a shiny chrome 6000# ball at U-haul. Sigh, forgot to grease it ONCE and wore off some of the chrome, now it rusts in spots. I haven't forgotten since and the rest is staying shiny. Seems to me that's proof enough grease or a lubricant is needed. Metal on metal, something is bound to give.

Donna, The ball will do that most times any way even with grease but it should not gall. What happens is that while driving dirt and dust get up in there and stick to the grease and it becomes a lapping compound and take the shine off the ball (mostly the front of the ball) with no grease it will gall and that will start to wear a whole lot faster.

[Mr. W.]

In my previous comments, I pointed out that the hitch is the best path you have to ground the wiring. I DID NOT say that you should rely on that for ground. You can use the inadequate little white wire if you want. It's not a good ground. You can use a jumper cable if you want. It's not a good ground unless you grind off the paint and rust from both contact points, and assuming it doesn't fall off on a bumpy road. You can try all sorts of things, and you should have as good a wired ground as you can achieve. However, you still can't get past the fact that the hitch is the best, most reliable source of ground available to you. Don't rely on it as your primary ground, but also don't use things that interfere with it. Axle grease is one. Bad idea. A good ground is your friend.

Reese (and others) make hitch lubricant for this purpose. To quote from the Reese product pages (for Reese Hitch Lubricant and Reese On The Ball Lubricant), "Just a few drops of this extreme pressure lubricant on your hitch ball will eliminate dangerous friction – without interrupting electrical ground continuity."

Don't assume that just because some other things are slimy that they work as well for the purpose. And, if you have a properly adjusted coupler in good condition, and a properly mounted hitch ball of reasonable quality, and are towing within the weight capacities for both, you should never see spalling, galling or loosening balls, whether you lubricate or not.
(Qualification here -- this applies to the weight of trailers most of us are towing. If you are towing in the heavier classes, you certainly could see galling. The need to lube goes up with weight, as the friction goes up under the same conditions.)

To sum up, I am not saying I am against lubricating. There is no denying that lowering friction is a good thing. I choose not to do it, because I am not experiencing wear on my towing components. However, you may choose to lube it for yourself. Great -- just clean and relube it before each trip (to clean up road grit), and use a product that is designed for the purpose.