To grease or not to grease? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-17-2009, 10:29 PM   #29
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When the trailer is hitched, just lift up on it or step on the car bumper. It should not be inordinately loose.
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Old 06-18-2009, 12:00 AM   #30
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Thank you for the WD40 tip, I tried it today and am impressed. I have never used lube in the past but shall definitely use WD40 in future. I have never liked the noises that come from the coupler.Thanks-great forum!!
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Old 06-18-2009, 12:08 AM   #31
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Jim,
What else do you put in your repair kit? I'm writing down a shopping list from this thread. How do I check the adjustment of the latch? I don't know what the coupler that I have is called, but it has a sliding collar type of mechanism with a spring loaded bar on the side that slides under the collar when open. Does that make sense?
Copied from my trailer list

Repair & Tool Kit
Duct tape
Electrical tape
Masking tape
Sewing kit
Tie wire
Cable ties
Sharpening stone
Spare batteries
Epoxy
Lineman pliers
Needlenose pliers
Waterpump pliers
Sidecutters
Adjustable wrench
Set of Wrenches
Screwdriver set
Utility knife
Small Level
Tape measure
Ball lubricant
]Propane Tee
Jack
Tire wrench - tow & 13/16
Air compressor
Tire pressure gauge
Booster cables
Disposable Gloves


Like Roger Mentioned, you can jack up on the hitch when attatched, jump on the bumper, etc. There should be no movement in the connection between the two. Likewise, it should not be too tight. Moderate pressure on the catch should be all that is needed. If you are having trouble hooking up, or closing the catch, it might be too tight.
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:37 AM   #32
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If it rubs together, it requires lubrication.

Your joints
Your tools
Your bearings
Your engines
Your hitch ball

If you do not provide lubrication it will cause premature wear.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:20 PM   #33
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Thank you for the WD40 tip, I tried it today and am impressed. I have never used lube in the past but shall definitely use WD40 in future. I have never liked the noises that come from the coupler.Thanks-great forum!!
Remember that WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Use WD40 to clean out the old grease and then apply fresh grease to the ball/hitch.



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Old 06-20-2009, 08:02 AM   #34
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Laura and Rick Said: Remember that WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Use WD40 to clean out the old grease and then apply fresh grease to the ball/hitch.

Boy, Are they ever right. It will eat some things like O rings and rubber products up. Please don’t get me wrong though, it is a great product when used right.

The WD stands for water displacement and when squirted in a wet tail light socket or in a wet distributor (Older Engines) it solves those issues.

I use it like L&R do and wash things out B cause it is less expensive than other spray can washes.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:21 PM   #35
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EKW hey Keith, probably have some LOL come on out and i'll give some back.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:03 PM   #36
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At last year's Oregon Gathering, Dave picked up a 'widget' from Gary Vanlith (Casita owner from TX) which has stopped all the clunks and noise from our hitch - best $10 we ever spent. Happy camping, all! L 'n D
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:56 AM   #37
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I read a tip on another RV forum about using beeswax or wax paper. I tried the wax paper last time out and it worked great. I folded it a couple of times then just hooked up as usual. Make sure that it doesn't interfere with the ball lock, though. After the trip, no mess. In fact, it shined up the ball.

I may try the beeswax but I have a roll of wax paper to use first.

Pat
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:19 AM   #38
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Thank you for the WD40 tip, I tried it today and am impressed. I have never used lube in the past but shall definitely use WD40 in future. I have never liked the noises that come from the coupler.Thanks-great forum!!
At first I used WD40 and really liked it. It turned out to loosen the nut and the ball almost came off. I now use Reese Ball grease and yes it is messy. First thing we do is cover with a ball cover when we unhitch.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:45 AM   #39
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I always use Blue Locktight stuff (Medium) on the ball nut to make sure it does not come loose. Learned this when I had one come loose also.

You can break loose the Blue stuff whereas the RED stuff is more permanent as in you may not be able to be break it loose, ever.

Lock Washer - I just do not trust them and remember, you are only susposta tighten them ONCE and never again.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:24 PM   #40
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I read a tip on another RV forum about using beeswax or wax paper. I tried the wax paper last time out and it worked great. I folded it a couple of times then just hooked up as usual. Make sure that it doesn't interfere with the ball lock, though. After the trip, no mess. In fact, it shined up the ball.

I may try the beeswax but I have a roll of wax paper to use first.

Pat
Pat, not sure I like the sound of this at all, especially with the paper. With the movement a hitch and ball sees, the paper could get into somewhere it shouldn't.

Some kind of real lubricant should really be used. It is not expensive, it is real easy to use and clean up when required. I really see no reason not to use it. A small container will last for years.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:27 PM   #41
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All my years towing with a ball, and we're talking into swamps and out, plus run of the mill towing, I've never had a need to lube up the ball. Wipe it clean before storing it, and that's it.

Kev
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:50 PM   #42
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One other consideration is that the hitch ball is the most effective ground path for your trailer lights. The puny little white wire in the harness isn't really adequate for a good ground, and you can have all sorts of weird anomalies with the lights. This is especially the case if you have brakes or a 12v refrigerator. Drive a few miles, and everything starts working properly. That's because the movement cleans up the friction surfaces of the ball and coupler, giving a solid ground.

Some greases are conductive, and some aren't. So, some will still allow a good ground, and some won't.

My personal feeling is that since the hitch ball and coupler are dis-similar metals (to a degree), they have dis-similar hardness. Therefore, they create a self-lubricating bearing surface. This theory seems to be born out over many tens of thousands of towing miles without lubricating the connection. I'm not a chemist by any stretch, but if I start with a clean ball and coupler, and tow several hundred miles, at the end I have a nicely lubricated connection. The difference, though, is that this "lubricant" is ferrous, and therefore conductive for the ground. And I have never seen any discernible wear on either the ball or coupler.

Will grease lubricate better? No doubt, for the first few miles. After that, it has picked up so much road grit (this connection isn't sealed like a wheel bearing is) that I suspect it actually becomes abrasive. At least, that's my concern.
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