Trillium trailer 12V wiring - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-07-2010, 05:21 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Name: William & Tina
Trailer: 1979 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 7
I wouldn't recommend running anything that generates heat off of an inverter. Anything that generates heat is very inefficient when powered by electricity.. The inverter in this situation is likely JUST able to handle the draw from the heater, then given enough time the device heats up, and as electronic devices heat up they become less efficient at what they do, which causes more draw causing a fuse/breaker to pop.
__________________

__________________
B and TW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2010, 07:30 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Davie B's Avatar
 
Trailer: Lite House
Posts: 230
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald
the solenoid is only needed for the charge line, and an old ford solenoid would be perfect, I know exactly which one you mean.
I would go from battery to fuse (inline), from fuse to solenoid,from solenoid to charge terminal on trailer plug. You might also consider a fuse at the trailer battery in case of a short in the cable between the trailer and the solenoid on the truck.
I'm not sure what wire to pick up in the toyota as a line to power the solenoid, that you'd need a wiring diagram for.

Joe
Just to understand: The relay is in the circuit to make sure you don't run down the TV battery while the engine is off but the trailer is still plugged in?
__________________

__________________
Davie B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2010, 09:19 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Joe MacDonald's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 753
yes that's right. I don't have one in mine, because I don't leave the plug connected unless I am towing
__________________
Joe MacDonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2010, 09:28 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Davie B's Avatar
 
Trailer: Lite House
Posts: 230
Registry
I do the same but still think a relay is a smart idea; backing up my old befuddled brain when I get in late after a long trip.
__________________
Davie B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2011, 06:52 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Gumpit's Avatar
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Massachusetts
Posts: 137
Registry
O.K. I have the trailer back from getting a new axle. I am going away next week and it is going to be cold. I would prefer to use a ceramic heater instead of the propane furnace. I still have the problem with the circuit breaker blowing after a few minutes of running only the ceramic heater and nothing else. It has a Progressive Dynamics Converter. The outside power cord goes into the converter and it acts like a circuit breaker for all the 115vac appliances as well as the 12v. My question is. Can I bump up the 15amp breaker to a 20 amp( and I wouldn't go higher) and see if that helps from tripping the circuit or do I run a seperate power feed on an ouside cord and have a dedicated outlet only for the ceramic heater?

it is the pd6921w2
http://www.progressivedyn.com/servic...ued/pd69xx.pdf
__________________
Gumpit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2011, 08:25 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2009 Scamp 16 ft / 2003 Durango
Posts: 692
Try and find somebody with a clamp on amp meter and find out how many amp's you are drawing.
You may have a weak breaker.

Bill K
__________________
Bill K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 02:57 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Rick G's Avatar
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
British Columbia
Posts: 366
Registry
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumpit View Post
O.K. I have the trailer back from getting a new axle. I am going away next week and it is going to be cold. I would prefer to use a ceramic heater instead of the propane furnace. I still have the problem with the circuit breaker blowing after a few minutes of running only the ceramic heater and nothing else. It has a Progressive Dynamics Converter. The outside power cord goes into the converter and it acts like a circuit breaker for all the 115vac appliances as well as the 12v. My question is. Can I bump up the 15amp breaker to a 20 amp( and I wouldn't go higher) and see if that helps from tripping the circuit or do I run a seperate power feed on an ouside cord and have a dedicated outlet only for the ceramic heater?

it is the pd6921w2
http://www.progressivedyn.com/servic...ued/pd69xx.pdf
Hi,
How many watts is your ceramic heater? A 15 amp 110 volt circuit can handle up to about 1700 watts, absolute max, no surges. Your electric heater, like most, probably draws a lot of current continuously, which could stress the circuit breaker. It is possible, as was suggested, that your circuit breaker is old and weak. You can get a new one at any electronics supply store for about $5, and install it yourself if you know electricity and replace the wiring exactly. They often are installed with push-on connectors.

I have had a similar converter to yours, and the 110 V outlet on the front panel should not connect to the converter for 12V at all, if it is like most. Instead, it connects directly to the incoming AC supply. The circuit breaker for the front panel outlet is only for that outlet (and for any downstream 110V outlets in the trailer), not for the converter portion. If your downstream outlets (if any) are connected to the same breaker, then you have to look at the total current from all the things plugged into all the 110V outlets. Are you running the fridge on 110V at the same time (as an example)?

The 110V at the front panel outlet has no relation to the 12V that the converter creates for interior lights, etc. Using a lot of power on the front panel outlet will not affect your 12V at all, unless you use up all the power available. In that case, your main incoming supply breaker at the house would blow, not the breaker on the front of the converter panel. So, assuming that your incoming AC can handle the current, the circuit breaker on the converter front panel should be able to too. If your main AC input is OK but the circuit breaker on the front of the converter panel keeps blowing, then replacing it with a new one is a reasonable first step to take. (However, if you have 30 Amp main input current, then it would not blow even if a full 15 Amps was going to the front panel outlet)

However, the circuit breaker may be blowing as intended if your heater is a 1500 watt unit that operates near the limit much of the time, which means you are using too much current and have only one viable option - reduce the current consumption.

To solve your problem in our trailer, we found a 110V electric heater that had two settings, one for 1500 watts and one for 750 watts. Obviously, the 750 watt setting uses half the current, which keeps us well within safety ratings even if it runs continuously. The difference in heat is not very noticeable. It has been a great addition. We found ours at XS Cargo for about $20.

As a qualified electronics tech, I would advise you NOT to increase the circuit breaker rating to 20 Amps UNLESS you also increase the size of every wire and connection to handle the increased current. A standard 14 gauge house wire will handle 1700 watts, but increasing it by 25% could cause a fire in any connection that cannot handle the increased current, or in the downstream components such as outlet plugs. You should only make that change if every component and wire in the entire circuit is changed for 20 amp service. This is often done with kitchen dishwashers, so the parts are available at building supply stores.

Hope that helps,
Rick G.
__________________
Rick G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 04:13 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Gumpit's Avatar
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Massachusetts
Posts: 137
Registry
I dropped the trailer off last night to have the people who installed the axle,adjust the brakes. I will have it back tonight. .And I am going to use it for the next 2 nights up in NH. I will double check the watts to see what the heater uses and I have a couple so I will find the smallest one. I went ahead and put in the 20amp breaker but I will get a 15 amp to try and see if it will work also without blowing the breaker. I am fairly certain the problem was the weak 15 amp I took out. I plugged the heater in and let it run for about a half hour. The wires stayed cool and the circuit did not blow. The heater is the ONLY thing plugged in. Nothing else. I feel better using that than the propane and it will only be on at night without anything else including lights. All the wires are newer looking romex house wires and seem to have been put in years after it was originally built. Thanks Randy
__________________
Gumpit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 06:21 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumpit View Post
I was in my camper earlier and wanted to see how well a ceramic heater would heat it up. After a while it tripped the circuit breaker on the inverter. I am not sure if I have the switch in the right position. Is there a way that it will run right off the 110v to the outlet or does it all run through the inverter? Randy
Hi, Randy
Were you by any chance powering anything else off the trailer circuit when it blew?
I have the same trailer you have and it came equipped with a 15 amp circuit breaker. Most electric space heaters draw 1500 watts and use most of the amperage available. Experience has taught me that the circuit will blow if anything much besides a light or two is added to the load.

Hope this helps

Francesca
__________________
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 08:22 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Gumpit's Avatar
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Massachusetts
Posts: 137
Registry
Absolutely nothing else is being powered. The Heater is 1500watts so I think that and the weak 15amp breaker is the reason it trips. I think running the 20 amp will work as long as I dont run anything else. And I won't . But we will find out tomorrow night in NH. Thanks Randy
__________________
Gumpit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 09:12 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumpit View Post
Absolutely nothing else is being powered. The Heater is 1500watts so I think that and the weak 15amp breaker is the reason it trips. I think running the 20 amp will work as long as I dont run anything else. And I won't . But we will find out tomorrow night in NH. Thanks Randy
Here's a suggestion from Camp Cheapskate's get-your-money's-worth handbook:
I always carry an extra#12 outdoor cord and if I'm paying for hookups I run it through the "cable hatch" on the doorside of the trailer. Hookups these days are often at least 30 amps, and usually have two plug positions on the box.
I run the biggest drain item (usually the heater, sometimes the fridge) off the extra cord. (note: If it's the fridge, I just unplug it inside the access door and connect the extra cord there.) That gives me enough amproom for everything else I've got, including an electric percolator, a crockpot, and the charger/converter. I also carry a stepdown adapter for the rare occasions when there's nothing to plug in to but a 60 amp service.

I never use my propane and/or power if I'm paying to use somebody else's .

Have fun tomorrow night!

Francesca
__________________
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 06:44 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Rodre's Avatar
 
Name: Rod
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 166
Registry
Install 12v battery in Trillium?

Hello,

My tow vehicle has the 12v charge line (I think, it is a GMC Envoy and according to the 6th post at http://forums.trailvoy.com/archive/i...p/t-27814.html it will charge a trailer battery. I know it will run the interior lighting and the fridge) from the alternator post that goes to the 7 pin wiring harness at the rear of the vehicle. Would it be possible for me to install a 12v deep cycle battery in the trailer and have the tow vehicle charge it and the trailer run off of it? If so how would I go about doing this? It may be worth mentioning that my Trillium does not have a power converter and the AC & DC power appear to be completely separate, with a breaker for the 110v power under the furnace.

Also, I noticed a 15amp fuse in a blue plastic fuse terminal located at the driver side front of the trailer, where the 7 pin wire connected to the tow vehicle meets the trailers wiring [harness]. This fuse terminal gets pretty hot. I can't tell if this is factory installed or not. My guess is that it is not. My trailer is a '78 Trillium 1300. Can anyone tell me if this is factory and if it is normal to get hot? Thanks!

~Rodre
__________________
Rodre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 07:31 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodre View Post
Hello,

My tow vehicle has the 12v charge line (I think, it is a GMC Envoy and according to the 6th post at Red wire Where ? [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum it will charge a trailer battery. I know it will run the interior lighting and the fridge) from the alternator post that goes to the 7 pin wiring harness at the rear of the vehicle. Would it be possible for me to install a 12v deep cycle battery in the trailer and have the tow vehicle charge it and the trailer run off of it? If so how would I go about doing this? It may be worth mentioning that my Trillium does not have a power converter and the AC & DC power appear to be completely separate, with a breaker for the 110v power under the furnace.

Also, I noticed a 15amp fuse in a blue plastic fuse terminal located at the driver side front of the trailer, where the 7 pin wire connected to the tow vehicle meets the trailers wiring [harness]. This fuse terminal gets pretty hot. I can't tell if this is factory installed or not. My guess is that it is not. My trailer is a '78 Trillium 1300. Can anyone tell me if this is factory and if it is normal to get hot? Thanks!

~Rodre
Hi, Rodre

The first thing you ought to do is download the T1300 wiring diagram at Fiberglass RV - Document Center - trillium 1300 wiring diagram
Check to make sure that your wiring matches the diagram. People fool with the wiring a lot, and may have altered yours.
And yes, you can install a battery, but I wouldn't put it inside the trailer as it may emit toxic and/ or explosive gases. If your trailer hasn't ever had a battery, you may have to install a new wire for the purpose.

Good Luck!

Francesca
__________________
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 10:49 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Rodre's Avatar
 
Name: Rod
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 166
Registry
Trillium Battery Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Hi, Rodre

The first thing you ought to do is download the T1300 wiring diagram at Fiberglass RV - Document Center - trillium 1300 wiring diagram
Check to make sure that your wiring matches the diagram. People fool with the wiring a lot, and may have altered yours.
And yes, you can install a battery, but I wouldn't put it inside the trailer as it may emit toxic and/ or explosive gases. If your trailer hasn't ever had a battery, you may have to install a new wire for the purpose.

Good Luck!

Francesca
Hello,

Thanks for the reply and link to the wiring diagram. Yes, it would be my intention to mount a battery box around the hitch area, possibly replacing one of my propane tanks. After reviewing the diagram these are my questions:

1. I guess I would have to run the power and ground wires from the wiring harness inside the trailer back out to where I mount the battery box. Does anyone know what type and/or gauge of wire I would have to use? What about the connectors to the battery, is there any specific type? Also, would I need anything in between where I connect the wires and the battery such as a fuse, charge regulator, etc? Does anyone have pictures and/or specs of a factory installed battery setup?

2. It appears that the fuse would be factory installed. Mine only has a 15amp 32v fuse installed in it. Is it supposed to have a 20amp fuse installed in it? Would this explain why the fuse terminal/casing was getting so hot?

3. What is the E-Brake (blue wire) used for?

4. Is it possible that the yellow (unused) wire is for backup/reverse lamps seeing as how it runs the length and accross the back of the trailer? I bought a backup camera for my trailer and wouldn't mind hooking it into this yellow wire if that is the case.

Thanks everyone for the info!

~Rod
__________________

__________________
Rodre is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
trillium


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HELP- - Re-wiring a 74 Trillium 13' Barry Konkin Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 20 10-05-2015 09:35 AM
1974 Trillium 12v Barry Konkin Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 17 07-26-2012 08:40 PM
Need guidance wiring 12v Distribution panel francene Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 13 11-02-2009 12:16 AM
Vehicle wiring to tow Trillium 13 francene Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 9 03-19-2009 10:14 PM
Wanted:Trillium wiring diagram Mikey Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 09-01-2007 06:07 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.